Daisy Avanti Diopter Sight Fix
Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 12:03 am
Daisy Diopter Sights
I’ve posted on this topic on another forum and thought it might be of interest here as well.
The 853 rear sight is decent but it is easily damaged (plastic) with rough handling and has a lower sight line than the 753. Plus it lacks the rubber eyecup of the 753 model.
The 853 front sight is another story. The inserts are crude, unevenly punched, off center and appear more oval than round. The housing is crudely made and often won’t hold the inserts securely. (The easy fix for that is to bend the little retaining tabs on the inserts back a bit so they take up the slack.) The only plus I could find was the greater weight for a more stable hold. Crude as it is, it does work and a lot of shooters have been successful using them.
The higher sight line if the 753 sight is more comfortable for most adult shooters. You don’t have to crane your neck so far over. A more upright head angle also helps to control sway for a more stable stance. The composite front sight is quite nice with a good selection of well made inserts.
I have had two of the Avanti Precision Diopter rear sights purchased (2010) direct from Daisy that had excessive play. There was very noticeable slop in the eyepiece in both examples (and yes, the eyepieces were screwed in securely). You could wobble them side to side (almost 1/16” on the one!). In the vertical plane they were both ok with no noticeable wobble. Both would also hang up and not move for several clicks and then jump.
So, send them back and get two more from Daisy? Get a refund, bite the bullet and get the Gamo’s at three times the price? Or see what can be done to correct the situation?
I decided they could be made to operate satisfactorily with a little fiddling. I am an inveterate tinkerer and couldn’t pass up the opportunity to give it a go.
The eyepiece carrier rides on two vertical and two horizontal shafts, with one of the shafts in each pair being threaded to facilitate adjustment. The carrier slides on the fixed shaft and the threaded shaft controls its position. On both examples the horizontal shafts and bores were good with no noticeable play so there was no wobble in the vertical plane.
The slop in the horizontal plane, was caused by a poor fit of both vertical shafts in the housing. Both vertical shafts are held in the housing with tiny E clips at the bottom of the housing. The fixed shaft has a small stop flange at the top keeping it in place (like a rivet). It doesn’t move so shimming it is easy and a drop of Super Glue will keep the shims in place.
The threaded shaft rotates in the housing which is more problematic. The correct fix would be to drill out the housing and epoxy in a brass plug or peen in a brass “rivet“, drill and ream to fit the shaft, lubricate and reassemble………….not likely! I lack both the skill and equipment for that kind of work and frankly, the value of anyone’s time who does, would far exceed the value of the sight.
Soooo… little collars formed around the shafts from brass shim stock (I have a small assortment of brass shim stock which I got from my local hobby shop. It contains several small sheets of various thicknesses and cost around 3 bucks. I cut the shims from the thinnest stock with scissors.) A little trial and error, filing with a round jewelers file and a few test fits and all noticeable play is gone. Clean up the housing of filings, degrease the holes, the outside of the shims, and the area right around them. Lubricate the shafts, (I like lock lubricant which contains graphite It lubricates well and doean't gum up.) and reassemble leaving off the E clips. Carefully position the collars (top and bottom) flush with the outside of the housing sparingly apply Super Glue from inside the housing. (I used a tooth pick and the liquid Super Glue, not the gel. For me, it seems to migrate into the joints and to hold better than the gel which tends to only stay on the surface.) Be careful to keep the glue off of the shafts. Make sure the shafts rotate freely, re-attach the E Clips. Snap on the sheet metal housing and screw in the eyepiece. On one housing the holes were so badly placed that the adjustment knob dragged on the housing , which required filing the housing to get clearance.
Was it worth it?
If the sight was purchased new or came on a new gun, I would return it for replacement. Daisy Customer service is friendly and helpful. They stand behind their products.
If you already have the sight and you are willing to tinker, yes. The fix should be fairly permanent as the areas aren’t under a lot of stress and the brass is a better bearing surface than the aluminum housing. It’s a fiddly fix, but not all that hard to do.
Is it legal? I would think so. You are not modifying the sight from it’s original design, just fixing a QC problem and making it operable as intended. Check with your club to be sure.
If you can afford the Gamo (Crosman) version, it probably makes more sense. I haven’t seen any complaints about them and the ones I have seen are smooth and tight without play.
Hope this was helpful.
Fatman
I’ve posted on this topic on another forum and thought it might be of interest here as well.
The 853 rear sight is decent but it is easily damaged (plastic) with rough handling and has a lower sight line than the 753. Plus it lacks the rubber eyecup of the 753 model.
The 853 front sight is another story. The inserts are crude, unevenly punched, off center and appear more oval than round. The housing is crudely made and often won’t hold the inserts securely. (The easy fix for that is to bend the little retaining tabs on the inserts back a bit so they take up the slack.) The only plus I could find was the greater weight for a more stable hold. Crude as it is, it does work and a lot of shooters have been successful using them.
The higher sight line if the 753 sight is more comfortable for most adult shooters. You don’t have to crane your neck so far over. A more upright head angle also helps to control sway for a more stable stance. The composite front sight is quite nice with a good selection of well made inserts.
I have had two of the Avanti Precision Diopter rear sights purchased (2010) direct from Daisy that had excessive play. There was very noticeable slop in the eyepiece in both examples (and yes, the eyepieces were screwed in securely). You could wobble them side to side (almost 1/16” on the one!). In the vertical plane they were both ok with no noticeable wobble. Both would also hang up and not move for several clicks and then jump.
So, send them back and get two more from Daisy? Get a refund, bite the bullet and get the Gamo’s at three times the price? Or see what can be done to correct the situation?
I decided they could be made to operate satisfactorily with a little fiddling. I am an inveterate tinkerer and couldn’t pass up the opportunity to give it a go.
The eyepiece carrier rides on two vertical and two horizontal shafts, with one of the shafts in each pair being threaded to facilitate adjustment. The carrier slides on the fixed shaft and the threaded shaft controls its position. On both examples the horizontal shafts and bores were good with no noticeable play so there was no wobble in the vertical plane.
The slop in the horizontal plane, was caused by a poor fit of both vertical shafts in the housing. Both vertical shafts are held in the housing with tiny E clips at the bottom of the housing. The fixed shaft has a small stop flange at the top keeping it in place (like a rivet). It doesn’t move so shimming it is easy and a drop of Super Glue will keep the shims in place.
The threaded shaft rotates in the housing which is more problematic. The correct fix would be to drill out the housing and epoxy in a brass plug or peen in a brass “rivet“, drill and ream to fit the shaft, lubricate and reassemble………….not likely! I lack both the skill and equipment for that kind of work and frankly, the value of anyone’s time who does, would far exceed the value of the sight.
Soooo… little collars formed around the shafts from brass shim stock (I have a small assortment of brass shim stock which I got from my local hobby shop. It contains several small sheets of various thicknesses and cost around 3 bucks. I cut the shims from the thinnest stock with scissors.) A little trial and error, filing with a round jewelers file and a few test fits and all noticeable play is gone. Clean up the housing of filings, degrease the holes, the outside of the shims, and the area right around them. Lubricate the shafts, (I like lock lubricant which contains graphite It lubricates well and doean't gum up.) and reassemble leaving off the E clips. Carefully position the collars (top and bottom) flush with the outside of the housing sparingly apply Super Glue from inside the housing. (I used a tooth pick and the liquid Super Glue, not the gel. For me, it seems to migrate into the joints and to hold better than the gel which tends to only stay on the surface.) Be careful to keep the glue off of the shafts. Make sure the shafts rotate freely, re-attach the E Clips. Snap on the sheet metal housing and screw in the eyepiece. On one housing the holes were so badly placed that the adjustment knob dragged on the housing , which required filing the housing to get clearance.
Was it worth it?
If the sight was purchased new or came on a new gun, I would return it for replacement. Daisy Customer service is friendly and helpful. They stand behind their products.
If you already have the sight and you are willing to tinker, yes. The fix should be fairly permanent as the areas aren’t under a lot of stress and the brass is a better bearing surface than the aluminum housing. It’s a fiddly fix, but not all that hard to do.
Is it legal? I would think so. You are not modifying the sight from it’s original design, just fixing a QC problem and making it operable as intended. Check with your club to be sure.
If you can afford the Gamo (Crosman) version, it probably makes more sense. I haven’t seen any complaints about them and the ones I have seen are smooth and tight without play.
Hope this was helpful.
Fatman