TargetTalk

Good day everyone! So my Pardini seems to like to think it's an IPSC gun and double tap on my due to the fact that the trigger resets itself almost immediatly upon release of pressure after the shot. This has caused a few double or triple taps. Does anyone know how to change/increase the reset distance on these triggers? And if you read this and happen to be in India at the 4th MWG's, please let me know!! Thanks,

Jesse Olsen
Canadian Forces CISM Shooting

Long time no hear, Jesse. Hope all's well with you.

The most likely culprit in your .32 is dirt, grime, sludge or whatever you want to call it. A good disassembly and cleaning will definitely help, even if it doesn't fix the problem. The Pardini trigger is like all others - they don't normally like living in a bath of unburnt powder, primer residue, etc.

The other culprit may be having the 2nd stage adjusted too light. Many who have shot my MG-2 doubled it because they were actually unconsciously re-applying pressure to the trigger as the gun recoiled. Most of them would turn to me with an astonished look and say the gun malfunctioned. After I told them THEY had malfunctioned the problem often went away! LoL I wouldn't discount this as a contributing factor until you give it a good solid checkout. Since you've got lots of weight to play with, try something in the 300-500 gram range on the 2nd stage and see if this helps.

Jesse,
Here is a message regarding the SP1 trigger posted by Sam Farrington on the Bullsye-L forum (I've added the bold emphasis):

"Anyone else shooting one of these? Mostly I like the
pistol, but it's had several problems. First, a broken
wire in the trigger caused a failure. It got fixed.
More recently it started doubling pretty often and
even tripled once. Finally, it started misbehaving
further, as the trigger would not release unless the
gun got thunked on the bench. When the trigger's good,
it's very, very good. But when it's bad it's . . .
pretty bad!
Others' experiences good, bad or indifferent?
Larry thought perhaps my finger was fluttering over
the release point during recoil and that might have
accounted for the doubling, but I kind of doubt it.
It's in for repair now-haven't heard anything yet."

I assume the SP1 and the HPE would have similar electronic triggers (different release weight, of course). Others on TT have reported problems with the SP1 electronic trigger, too.
Perhaps your problem is not adjustment but rather faulty electronics? Any chance there is a Pardini service rep at the CISM shooting events?

Further, in line with Mark's recommendation, here is a message posted on TT:
"Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:28 pm
I've experienced double shots myself. The problem I had was not trigger settings - it was oil/dirt on the micro switch.

Remedy:
Open up the small micro switch on the electronic module. It is very easy, just pick up the plastic tounges with a needle. Once the micro switch is open, wash it with with something that does not leave any residue. I'm using Heptan. Lighter fluid would probably work fine too. I tried to use a contact cleaner that containined some sort of contact lubricant, and it made things even worse. So use something that does not leave any residue - the micro switch needs to be completly dry.
Now my electronic SP1 works perfectly fine! Good luck!
Tobias"

Hope this helps.
Regards,
Mike T.

To add to Mike's post (sorry, didn't take note of the "E" designation in your original post, Jesse), you will want to pay particular attention to the attachment of the electronic module to the frame. If this moves even a microscopic amount it will have significant effect on trigger performance. I found that after removing my electronics for cleaning that I had unreliable operation for about 50 rounds afterward. My solution now is to leave the electronics in place and not touch them. This has worked a charm on the SP1 Electronic.

Hm, right now I remember some episodes from our long ago GPE times... we had to polish off the black stuff from the frames under the screw that holds the electronics - that thing us used to ground the electrics, and the black surface could prevent the circuit from closing (or whatever, I'm no electrician) - at least it worked better afterwards...

I own two Pardini handguns, a GT 9 dual tone 6", and a .32 HPE.
The HPE has been dissapointing: It has since purchase (brand new) some years ago, seen limited use, do to an unreliable trigger. Some times it may fire, sometimes not. Batteries exchanged, to no avail.

At the range, the gun (and I) were mocked because of the unreliable trigger. "How aboaut that fancy italian gun of yours;- will it go bang today? Ho, ho, ho" .. I simply stopped bringing the HPE to the range.
Now I intend to give my HPE a second chance.

Some testing recently indicated the switch at the bottom of the grip was to blame. The electronics of the trigger unit (solenoide and sircuits) apparently are ok.
If a spare switch is not available from Pardini, I will desperately turn to a DIY-solution.
Otherwice, this very nice and expensive gun will become a paperweight/wallhanger.


Emailed the Pardini-Company in Italy about the problem, the other day, - hope they will reply.
- - - - -
Edit: today, the 18th of may, because the contact adress: "info@Pardini.it" haven`t responded I sendt them an email about this topic again.
I sencerely hope my, disregarding its non-working trigger, attractive HPE, may avoid retirement as a wallhanger.

The electronic trigger unit of my gun is # 760 L, btw.

Here's how I fixed the same issue with the SP1 that I had.

Put it in a box and send it back demanding that they replace it with the mechanical version, pointing out that despite the 4 modules and 2 switches that they send me to "fix" it they are a flawed design. I got my mechanical version (despite being told I couldn't swap it) and it's worked great ever since.

I know that doesn't help you while overseas at a competition, when my failed in similar situation I borrowed a team mates pistol and shot the match with that (luckily there was more than one detail).

Not sure about yours but mine doubled because the trigger can be set so fine (one of the advantages, is also one of the problems) that as the pistol recoils it settles slightly into the hand just enough for the trigger to reset, then as the bolt closes it moved forward just enough to fire the trigger, pretty much the same principle as the infamous bump fire stock on an AR15. You can possibly get around it by adjusting the trigger to have a light first stage and a heavy second.

Good luck!

Thanks for your post, "j-team".
Mine has not doubled, but then, i have fired less than 50 rounds with my HPE.
The problem is the switch at the bottom of the grip, apparently. Or more precisely, probably the soldering of one of the contacts at the springs attached to the switch.
I think my gun could be remedied with a new switch. I favor this gun, it has a balance to my liking, slightly front heavy. And the gun appears well made. It`s just the issue with that switch.

I discussed the problem with the sole importer of Pardini arms to this country a couple of years back, when he was accessible, and I was informed my gun could be "transformed" to a mechanical version, with a cost of some 330 Euros. I think that was an exchange of the bare frame (less slide) and not the trigger unit only. In this country the Pardini . 32 S&WL has a price tag of ca 2200 Euros now.

northpaw wrote:Thanks for your post, "j-team".
Mine has not doubled, but then, i have fired less than 50 rounds with my HPE.
The problem is the switch at the bottom of the grip, apparently. Or more precisely, probably the soldering of one of the contacts at the springs attached to the switch.
I think my gun could be remedied with a new switch. I favor this gun, it has a balance to my liking, slightly front heavy. And the gun appears well made. It`s just the issue with that switch.

I discussed the problem with the sole importer of Pardini arms to this country a couple of years back, when he was accessible, and I was informed my gun could be "transformed" to a mechanical version, with a cost of some 330 Euros. I think that was an exchange of the bare frame (less slide) and not the trigger unit only. In this country the Pardini . 32 S&WL has a price tag of ca 2200 Euros now.

If it's just the switch, I suspect Pardini didn't make it. If you can get their attention, they may be able to tell you the manufacturer & part number so you can get a replacement. They may even have some in stock from when they shut down production.

I've had good luck finding odd parts like this by using the Google image search. Humans are very quick at visual pattern recognition, and if you can come up with a reasonable description, you may be able to find it. That said, I looked at the exploded diagram, and I couldn't find anything that looked switch-like. It may be buried inside part #763. The good news is that part looks very similar to the same part in their free pistol, which I think is still in production.

Hi, "Gwhite".
The exploded view of the Pardini HPE .32 S&WL is here, - scroll down to page 33:
file:///C:/Users/NTM-ACER-12/mu_code/manual_2004_2008.pdf

You are correct, the "electric switch" is part # 863 of the HPE, (similar to your part #763 of the SP1, at page 32 of same manual).

The "switch" is sealed unit, holding the switch lever at the bottom, and a dot of red paint to one side of it, and two conical coil springs pushing aginst the batteries.

I may be able to make a privisional fix by short-circuiting the two conical springs, by combining them with a short wire, but then I have to remove the batteries and the switch after each shooting session. One small screw and a washer only, but..
- - -
Owners manual for the Pardini PF:
file:///C:/Users/NTM-ACER-12/mu_code/manual_2010.pdf

At page 22, figure #1, bottom view of the switch-unit.
At page 25, the switch unit is part # F065. Appears similar to the parts #763 (SP1), and # 863 (HPE).

My SP1 came with a black plastic sliding switch, when I had problems they replaced it with a silver metal toggle switch.

It didn't help (but it looked nicer!).

The Switch unit of my Pardini HPE .32 S&WL has a black plastic housing, with a silver metal (alu?) toggle switch.
Probably the same switch-unit used in the current production Pardini free pistol.
The remaining problem then may be to get a communication with Pardini.

Pardini has not made any electronic triggers for a couple of years because of its being so unreliable. They made at least three different trigger units that didn't work. I don't think the switch in the grip has got something to do with that.
If you get a Rink grip you will get a different switch. Your problems will remain. Sadly.

j danielsson wrote: I don't think the switch in the grip has got something to do with that.
If you get a Rink grip you will get a different switch. Your problems will remain. Sadly.

"I beg to differ"...the solenoid IS ok, and so is the trigger unit. I have connected the el-contacts at the frame of my HPE with a power source (two 1,5 batteries connected i series) and the trigger then worked properly!
At least some Pardini .22 and .32 E-versions work ok for years.

Rink? Been there, done that. They could not make a lefty-grip for my HPE.
- - - - - - - -
In 2013

Reinhamre wrote: I sent an email to the Pardini factory, and to my surprise I have got an answer. Thumbs up Pardini!

You lucky man...
BTW, Kent, you are still going strong, I hope. Some years back I visited you at your residence near Gotenborg, when I participated in a championship in Sweden.
- - -
Edit: Pardini Italy responded now; the staff has been accupied attending the World Cup in Munic. I`ll acccept that. :-)