Hello folks. One of my club colleagues has asked me to sort out her FWB model 80 which is recoiling.
It looks like the cocking lever pivot screw has come loose and is rubbing on the fixed part of the action and preventing the sled part from sliding backwards, and so not all of the recoil is absorbed.
I need to know how to remove the sled part from the fixed part without all the clockwork flying round the room. Is there a simple strip procedure described anywhere? I have Googled around but found nothing.
Stripping Feinwerkbau 80
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jarviser
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:29 pm
- Location: Shoot'n in Luton, United Kingdom.
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Re: Stripping Feinwerkbau 80
Actually that was me who asked - I forgot to log in!!!Anonymous wrote:Hello folks. One of my club colleagues has asked me to sort out her FWB model 80 which is recoiling.
It looks like the cocking lever pivot screw has come loose and is rubbing on the fixed part of the action and preventing the sled part from sliding backwards, and so not all of the recoil is absorbed.
I need to know how to remove the sled part from the fixed part without all the clockwork flying round the room. Is there a simple strip procedure described anywhere? I have Googled around but found nothing.
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Guest
It's OK I followed the model 65 instructions in the ten-P files.
Two cross head screws under the action at the front, two 3mm hex socket head screws under the grips. Needed a shortened hex key.
Comes apart cleanly.
Screwed up the pivot screw and sealed the head with a drop of varnish (the original staking had obviously not been up to the job).
Two cross head screws under the action at the front, two 3mm hex socket head screws under the grips. Needed a shortened hex key.
Comes apart cleanly.
Screwed up the pivot screw and sealed the head with a drop of varnish (the original staking had obviously not been up to the job).
Stripping FWB 80
Nail varnish will not hold for long. You need to use Lock tight.
Check the screw is clean when you reassemble it, and also the hole you screw into. Check that the screw is not damaged and is smooth (no burrs), and use the Lock Tight.
Check this part regularly , whenever you clean the pistol.
The Lock tight should take overnight to dry properly and seal in.
Good luck.
Alex L.
Check the screw is clean when you reassemble it, and also the hole you screw into. Check that the screw is not damaged and is smooth (no burrs), and use the Lock Tight.
Check this part regularly , whenever you clean the pistol.
The Lock tight should take overnight to dry properly and seal in.
Good luck.
Alex L.
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jarviser
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:29 pm
- Location: Shoot'n in Luton, United Kingdom.
- Contact:
I only had "stud-fix" Loctite and I was worried about getting the screw out again. It's a big lump of metal to heat up which is the usual way to free heavy grade Loctite.
I used polyurethane varnish soaked into the counterbore where the screw head is, and it's is pretty tough. I will leave it to see if it does move again.
Nice to see such a quality build under the hood - I'm trying to buy it from her!!!
I used polyurethane varnish soaked into the counterbore where the screw head is, and it's is pretty tough. I will leave it to see if it does move again.
Nice to see such a quality build under the hood - I'm trying to buy it from her!!!