TargetTalk

clarky wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:28 am Thanks for the support Huck on the previous post but i just ignore crap like that. I was just trying to help shooting fellows having issues with their FAS, not blow smoke up my ass for the work I pretty much copied from Slofyr....all the credit goes to him.

Thanks for all the hard work getting it sorted ...

I keep thinking there is a part out there somewhere that can be an easy semi-permanent fix, something like a short hard rubber cylinder that by luck fits into the breech end of the barrel and will last at least a few thousand pellets before needing replacement ...

But I think Chiappa is on the hook for this obvious problem; they should ship out a repair to anyone who can provide them evidence of ownership.

clarky wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:28 am ....Slofyr seems to have cured his by going with the Mcmaster seal...Be good if he could chime in here .....
....
.... i just ignore crap like that. I was just trying to help shooting fellows having issues with their FAS, not blow smoke up my ass

This thread was started back in Oct 2016. It was/is intended to be a quick and relatively easy patch without machine tools. I expected the initial ideas to evolve. I still use the McMaster 1170N21 square-profile Viton o-ring, and chose it because it has more surface contact area than a round o-ring. It is fiddly at times, and I have used dabs of contact cement to keep it against the washer and the washer seated in the breech. I persist in doing this because it is not a priority, FP gets most of my attention. I’ve considered casting a seal from RTV and also cutting one on the lathe. Maybe this winter. As it is, the 6004 is still far more capable than I am. The original 604 was brilliant engineering when introduced in the 80’s, and it still is in 6004 trim. In a Ransom rest PCP’s will likely make a smaller hole, but I don’t think that justifies their much higher cost and necessary support paraphernalia. It’s my personal choice, but less complexity is usually a better ownership experience.

Regarding the whining, instead of constructive contributions in a forum there are always forever-unhappy trolls who assume we are interested in their negative bitching. Ignore the bile and let them stew in their own juice.

Voice of reason ...cheers Slofyr.

I've just ordered a 6004. Does everyone have issues with this gun? I'm prepared to work some of the fixes if necessary. Has anyone sent the gun back to the manufacturer or the local rep to get these things taken care of? Just wondering on that and if so the result, good, bad or indifferent.

I haven't shot pump air guns since 1980. And sold my very old Nygord CO2 Steyr 5 shot a year or so ago after not using it for a decade though I kept the seals oiled as regular mothball maintenance.

I have a copy of the manual, and I've read most of the posts here on this subject. The manual is lacking in direction and illustrations for maintenance. And I have a mental disconnect on exactly what gets oiled and what get greased. And the gasket discussions have me at 6s and 8s. Maybe once I have the gun in hand I'll get it.

A point of interest when working on the barrel would it be wise to block the barrel with a patch to keep all the cuttings from getting down in the barrel and this way after the work was completed a wood dowel could be pushed down to clear any shavings and such? followed by a clean patch or two?

Thanks for any assistance, and or direction. I'm not looking for the Steyr tack driving capability though it would be nice, just something that has the degree of accuracy and precision some of you have mentioned without all the extras that PCP guns require.

Rick T.

Yeah people have approached Chiappa but its a girl in the office that replies she will pass on your comments to the Technical team....Well we have all had that one with many different products in life.
The Original 604 went through a number of incarnations before getting it right but many think the 2nd model was best before the Mk2 was bought out.
The 6004 is a classic case of the latest version being a lesser gun than where it started.
However, it can simply be improved to be about as good as it once was in the 604 guise but with the added benefit of the top strap unlikely to crack unlike its 604 cousin
Its been swapped from a Zinc die cast alloy (think heavy Dinky cars that use to crack if you trod on them by accident) to a mazak cast alloy which is lighter but stronger.
The paint job isnt so good as the matt powder coating it once had but once you got the seal and breach sorted its fine.

Yes i shoved a few Q tips down the barrel to prevent ingress of metal debris when machining a better leade.

Greetings,

"Mazak" cast alloy? Can you post a link to this metal?

Or, is it Zamak, which is familiar to me.

Cheers,

Dave

They the same thing. Mazak generic name.

B&M make a mount for it that fits into the rear sight location and into the front sight groove, but its a bit weak IMO.
If you have to fit a sight, I would drill, tap and fit a small piece of rail. A 5 slot from Amazon.

ordered an A5.

I talked to John at BHM or B&M yesterday. Interesting guy. W both had a few Don Nygord stories to swap. By weak, would be more specific? PM if you feel it would be more politic.

Thanks,

RT

Think in terms of a long thin piece of rail, anchored into the keeper screws for where the rear sight mounts at one end.
At the muzzle end, it anchors into the tiny 2mm groove for the foresight, utilising the tiny fixing screw for the foresight in that groove.
Now think a sight on top and all your force when closing down on that to load it....and I start worrying.

However, It is very nicely made from high grade anodized alloy. Maybe they should be applauded for going the route of not needing any holes drilling into the top strap and un-skilled fitting...
Try it I guess....see how it goes.
Personally, A massively strong weaver rail, with 2 tapped M4 screw holes is better way to go.

I wondered about all that. Many Thanks. I ordered one as well as a rail.

One other question that you or someone might choose to answer: flushing the TP and cleaning the piston. What is the procedure? What gets disconnected or removed? Generally what is the whole and proper process to undertake this. Do i leave the TP in the gun and if so where do I spray the WD40, into the top air hole and let it drip down followed buy light air pressure? And, do I need any just in case parts? And talking of parts what spare parts are generally suggested I stock up on?

When I get a gun that I intend to shoot more than just once a parsec (approx 3.3 light years or 19 trillion miles), I like to be able to fix it. I'm talking an hour or two 3 to 4 days a week.

I'm using 50 yard small bore rifle targets because the paper is thicker than my the air gun targets (I have both on hand). The holes are not clean. I did own a Steyr 5 shot CO2 for years. I could tell when the CO2 was running low, sound, lower POI and sloppy targets.

I did shoot a few pellets into a thick rag to see what they looked like. They seem to be right with the rifling on the skirt and just barely on the head of the pellet. Those that stopped were at or close to a non zero speed into the 22 bullet trap were generally not recognizable.

Too bad there isn't a shop manual that has all this with photos and possibly video.

Again thanks.

Rick Tornello

NEVER EVER USE WD40 on ANY pistol you care about. WD stands for "water displacing", and it's not a very good lubricant. What's worse, when it dries, it leaves a sticky residue behind. It will glue delicate trigger pieces together. It's fine for lawn mowers, but not delicate machinery.

For air guns, if you need lubrication, use air tool oil. If needs cleaning, you can use TSI 301, which also leaves a thin lubricating film behind. For any place that needs grease, like O-rings, use Superlube.

I have TSI 301 and the grease recommended by FAS. There was a thread regarding flushing the TP with WD 40 here or on another site to clean the TP out.

Since I'm not familiar with all the workings of this gun, and the associated lack of manufacturing supplied data, I'm gathering up data on procedures, recommendations, as well as mine fields not to cross before I stick my fingers into the fan.

Up until now I only use wd40 on automotive and acceptable related tools and projects.

Thank you,

RT

Do not use WD40 as stated above.
Simply use some very light sewing machine oil, or Hydraulic oil. They are very thin, unlike grease. It will flush and lube the internal valve as you shoot it.
Grease like lithium is bad news as it gets compressed down into the TP clogging it up....keep grease for the pivot pin.
Do not get too hung up on such oils damaging O ring seals. It will not happen within their normal operating life time, before requiring swapping out.

so TSI 301 is okay or not?

Its got a very low surface tension so yeah should be fine.

Re oils Thanks again all of you.

I'm waiting for the accessory lamps for my chronograph so I can get the pellet speed. Otherwise it is a fun shooter. I dialed in as best I can with iron sights at 10M. Even with shooting glasses, the proper diopter powered lens added and iris it's still not as tight as with a red dot. I'll be working on that next.

I forgot how much fun air can be. When my wife is on the 3rd floor she can't hear it hitting the 22 trap. The cat just sits on the stairs waiting for me to stop so I can attend to her ever fish wish.

I have a question regarding C-clip removal. I've done this on cars motorcycles and larger items. Is there a tool for the tiny piston C-clip removal or some special incantation to prevent scratching and ruining the finish?

Thanks,
RT

I was thinking about all the talk regarding getting more FPS out of the 6004. What no one seems to have addressed, or I missed, is the maximum volume of air that the piston can actually compress, which if I'm right gives a physical limit to the speed of the pellet. Has anyone addressed this more specifically and figured out what ideal sea level speed should/could really be? Then height above sea level could be computed to work out what the difference between the base line @ SL verses various locations should be, given all other variables that should have been addresses in the manufacturing process as mentioned herein are taken care of.

We had to do that when we were racing 2 stroke enduro Karts to include humidity and ambient temp.The thought just hit me.