TargetTalk

Long line is 185gr Zero JHP over 4.38gr Clays
Short line is 160gr Valiant LSWC over 4.45gr Solo 1000

For the EIC and hardball matches I shoot a 92FS
Across the coarse load.
115gr Sierra Tournament Master FMJ over 4.8gr VV N-340

For my M52-1 in centerfire
148gr Remington HBWC over 2.8gr Bullseye using Winchester magnum primers

Clarence

I recently acquired a S&W 945 - maybe not the ideal gun for BE, but it hooked me as soon as I picked it up. Now I'm just trying to figure out a way I can afford to shoot it.

In my 52-1, I was using the Remington 148 gr HBWC over 2.7 gr Bullseye, but the Remington bullets had a messy lube and tended to shave a bit on seating. I just bought some 148 gr HBWC from deltaprecision.com - they cost a little more but they are cleaner and load more easily. I haven't shot the deltas off of a rest yet, but they seem to be doing well enough off hand.

To all, thanks for letting me know what you use - that's going to be a lot of help.

Roger

To Roger;

To me the messy lube is not a problem cause they shoot great.
If you are shaving lead when seating, then you have not belled the case enough or not installing the bullet correctly in the belled case.

I load all my 52-1 and 92fs ammo on a single stage press.
Takes a bit longer, but the outcome is worth it.

Clarence

P.S.
To the OP, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Isabel1130 wrote:For my long line line loads, I shoot the 185g LHP with 4.3g of Titegroup. For the Valiant 160's I use 3.7 of Clays. They don't make very pretty holes, at that low a charge, but seem pretty accurate at the 25 yard line. I tried a couple of the 185g LHP's with the 3.7 of Clays and those seemed very nice too, with a little more velocity but not much more kick.
The thing I don't like about the Clays, is it does not meter as well as the Titegroup. I have been seriously thinking about working up my loads with VVN310 or Bullseye instead.

V-310 and bullseye are extremely accurate powder for shooting bullseye loads but v-310 is temperature sensitive, it gets weaker in colder weather, on the other hand bullseye is dirtier but not sensitive to temp changes, that's why i went with it.

GunRunner wrote:

Isabel1130 wrote:For my long line line loads, I shoot the 185g LHP with 4.3g of Titegroup. For the Valiant 160's I use 3.7 of Clays. They don't make very pretty holes, at that low a charge, but seem pretty accurate at the 25 yard line. I tried a couple of the 185g LHP's with the 3.7 of Clays and those seemed very nice too, with a little more velocity but not much more kick.
The thing I don't like about the Clays, is it does not meter as well as the Titegroup. I have been seriously thinking about working up my loads with VVN310 or Bullseye instead.

V-310 and bullseye are extremely accurate powder for shooting bullseye loads but v-310 is temperature sensitive, it gets weaker in colder weather, on the other hand bullseye is dirtier but not sensitive to temp changes, that's why i went with it.

That is a good point. In addition to the metering difficulties Clays is temperature sensitive as well. There have been a few mornings at the spring outdoor matches where the cold was an issue. On the other hand, maybe a better alternative would be to knock down the Titegroup by a few tenths of a grain and just shoot that.
What I really like about my two powder, two bullet solution now, is there is no sight change between the long and the short line, and the Valiants are very cheap to shoot.

Isn't lock time the time it takes for the firing pin to strike the primer after the trigger is pulled? If thats the case, then changing the mainspring has nothing to do with lock time. Maybe we're thinking of slide cycling? You might increase the speed of your lock time by using a lighter firing pin. Try a titanium one. There I saved you 8 months of waiting time. you can thank me later

Thank you for recommending Frank Glenn. I had him install the rib on to the slide. I'm very happy with the result. I would also recommend him. LG

tenx9 wrote:Isn't lock time the time it takes for the firing pin to strike the primer after the trigger is pulled? If thats the case, then changing the mainspring has nothing to do with lock time. Maybe we're thinking of slide cycling? You might increase the speed of your lock time by using a lighter firing pin. Try a titanium one. There I saved you 8 months of waiting time. you can thank me later

Yes lock time is the time it takes the firing pin to strike the primer after the sear is disengaged. That means that hammer fall time is part of it. A stronger mainspring will shorten that time.
I don't know if lock time is important, but I do know that the main spring does have something to do with it.

zetor wrote:

tenx9 wrote:Isn't lock time the time it takes for the firing pin to strike the primer after the trigger is pulled? If thats the case, then changing the mainspring has nothing to do with lock time. Maybe we're thinking of slide cycling? You might increase the speed of your lock time by using a lighter firing pin. Try a titanium one. There I saved you 8 months of waiting time. you can thank me later

Yes lock time is the time it takes the firing pin to strike the primer after the sear is disengaged. That means that hammer fall time is part of it. A stronger mainspring will shorten that time.
I don't know if lock time is important, but I do know that the main spring does have something to do with it.

Its a simple theory, the shorter the time it takes from the pulling of the trigger to the bullet exiting the barrel the less time for the shooter to move off target.