TargetTalk

Lots of beginning shooters set up a spotting scope in a location where they have to get out of position after every shot to check their target. Using a scope to get shot by shot feedback is a valuable tool, but you need to set it up so you can comfortably lean over to look through it WITHOUT moving your feet.

Another important part of your stance is to find a secure place to park you non-shooting hand. If it's just dangling, it WILL impart motion to the rest of your body. You need to put it someplace comfortable and repeatable. I always use to park it in my pants pocket, but the position varied with the pants I was wearing. I now hook my thumb behind the top of my belt buckle, which is much more consistent.

Taking the "positioning advice" very seriously - here is after I fixed the position:

Here is for today. 15 shots.



Anything interesting guys?

nmondal wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 8:42 am Here is for today. 15 shots.



Anything interesting guys?

Other than the usual suspects (heeling, snatching, anticipating, etc.), no. Not really.

You might want to adjust your sights a click or two down and right.

william wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 8:52 am

nmondal wrote: ↑Fri Apr 09, 2021 8:42 am Here is for today. 15 shots.
Anything interesting guys?

Other than the usual suspects (heeling, snatching, anticipating, etc.), no. Not really.
You might want to adjust your sights a click or two down and right.

On it, thanks! Shall see tomorrow!

Here, after alignment.
10 Shots.



One really bad shot. Bottom 8, knew it after shot.
Anything interesting?
Any further alignment required?

Rather than basing changes on single targets, shoot a target, place another over it and shoot; do this again. THEN make an adjustment based on a thirty shot group. Do this every time you shoot. Do NOT make any adjustments until you have fired the thirty shots!

Your focus should not be your on adjusting the sights one or two clicks here or there.

It’s natural for the centre of the group to move around a little during a match. Reason for this is muscle tension varies as match progresses.

This happens to the best in the world also. You adjust the sights as needed during the match.

What you need to to is to shoot a lot of series and look at the size of the groups and then work on the fundamentals to reduce the average size of those groups.

By all means, adjust the sights as you go, but that will make only affect the score not the size of the groups.
In training the score does not matter....

Rover wrote: ↑Sat Apr 10, 2021 7:31 am Rather than basing changes on single targets, shoot a target, place another over it and shoot; do this again. THEN make an adjustment based on a thirty shot group. Do this every time you shoot. Do NOT make any adjustments until you have fired the thirty shots!

Thank you! But here I have already shot 30 shots ( previous 2 targets I did not show. )
But will remember that.

nmondal wrote: ↑Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:06 pm

Rover wrote: ↑Sat Apr 10, 2021 7:31 am Rather than basing changes on single targets, shoot a target, place another over it and shoot; do this again. THEN make an adjustment based on a thirty shot group. Do this every time you shoot. Do NOT make any adjustments until you have fired the thirty shots!

Thank you! But here I have already shot 30 shots ( previous 2 targets I did not show. )
But will remember that.

I'm not sure you've "got it." You want thirty shots on ONE target to make one hole (ignoring the fringes), to make your sight adjustment.

Ah.. I see.
You see, I take pics and overlay the holes in my laptop.
That is how.
I can see the layers, does that make sense or am I doing something wrong?
I can obviously shoot on 3 targets you you suggested, but I just take pic and replace them and compare.

Rover wrote: ↑Sat Apr 10, 2021 11:22 pm I'm not sure you've "got it." You want thirty shots on ONE target to make one hole (ignoring the fringes), to make your sight adjustment.

Do these count?
Moreover, if I change the light direction ( I have a table lamp over the target ) - should that impact the sight alignment?
For me it clearly does ( checking it for some time now, happened today even).


Left one and Right one were shot in slight change in Lighting condition.

Lighting will change your point of impact. I think you're shooting very well for a newbie. Stop overanalyzing and just shoot more. Your groups will tighten even more and then you can think about sight adjustment etc

Ade C wrote: ↑Sun Apr 11, 2021 1:45 pm Lighting will change your point of impact. I think you're shooting very well for a newbie. Stop overanalyzing and just shoot more. Your groups will tighten even more and then you can think about sight adjustment etc

Thanks.. I started shooting from 2019 actually.. albeit 2020.. could do nothing.

So.. couple of updates.
I have the base model of LP 500 - with Small grip. It is fitting tight - not yet fitting nicely.
And.. given Walther did not even give any toolset with it - waiting for it to arrive from amazon.
So.. the gun first:


I tried smoothing out the grip and all ( trigger is still miles away from my hand size ):


Then given groupings are to left ( as expected ) - I adjusted the sight:


Please note that the cylinders are less than 100 bar now - so not adjusting for height.
Does this look ok?

Still trigger position is a problem ( could not change position - no toolkit provided ).
Grip is still annoyance ( fitting tight and the volume is larger than what my grip volume is).

Assuming you are right handed (the grip appears that way), it looks like you may be forcing your shots off, which pulls the pistol down & left. Also known as "jerking the trigger". Dry fire until the pistol doesn't move any more than your normal wobble when it clicks.

It helps to concentrate on performing an action that results in the shot being fired, rather than thinking explicitly about firing the shot. For example, think about constantly and smoothly increasing pressure on the trigger. It WILL go off, but the small mental distance can help avoid anticipating and/or forcing the shot off.

Gwhite wrote: ↑Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:06 am Assuming you are right handed (the grip appears that way), it looks like you may be forcing your shots off, which pulls the pistol down & left. Also known as "jerking the trigger". Dry fire until the pistol doesn't move any more than your normal wobble when it clicks.

It helps to concentrate on performing an action that results in the shot being fired, rather than thinking explicitly about firing the shot. For example, think about constantly and smoothly increasing pressure on the trigger. It WILL go off, but the small mental distance can help avoid anticipating and/or forcing the shot off.

Thanks! I was planning to ask you guys this.
Is there actually a difference in trigger weight between "dry fire - Test mode" vs "Firing Mode" ?
When I am dry firing - things are very smooth - but on actual firing mode - why I "feel" that I am trying to push the trigger harder?
Anything I am missing?

There shouldn’t be any difference in trigger feel in dry fire vs live fire.(not sure if it’s even possible for that issue to develop. Don’t think it is.)

It could be the classic case of “chicken finger”.
(The inability to apply a constant pressure on the trigger because it’s counterintuitive to ignore the movements of the pistol within the aiming area and keep pressing the trigger at the same time. You know it’s happening when it feels like the trigger weight is 20000 lbs but no shot happens.)

JonPersson wrote: ↑Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:44 am There shouldn’t be any difference in trigger feel in dry fire vs live fire.(not sure if it’s even possible for that issue to develop. Don’t think it is.)

It could be the classic case of “chicken finger”.
(The inability to apply a constant pressure on the trigger because it’s counterintuitive to ignore the movements of the pistol within the aiming area and keep pressing the trigger at the same time. You know it’s happening when it feels like the trigger weight is 20000 lbs but no shot happens.)

I see! Thanks..lets try to get mentally prepped then!

....another cause of “chicken finger” is a too light second stage.....some can manage that. I’m not one of them so I use a 50/50-split between 1st and 2nd stage (roughly)