TargetTalk

Hi,

I am helping a friend in fixing her K10. She says she had her tank sent to Pardini Italy and having spent so much on postage and taxes, the tanks are still malfunctioning with leaks and now it could not get loaded with air (I have not touched it so far). Also, I noticed her regulator (the washers that act as pressure valves) are so oily. Totally different from what I have seen previously. Therefore I think I need to open both. Can anyone refer me to a video showing how to open both the tank and the parts well within the regulator and what's behind it? Any instructions please. It would be impossible for me to send the K10 to Italy for repair because of the expense involved over and above the fact that it may be confiscated within our postal system.

Your quick response will truly be of help.

Many thanks

Alex, Vladimir, Emil,
Hello friends. What are the rings currently listed on the website for the Pardini SPBE? You all kindly sent me an extra ring to deal with the creep scope problem with the 32ACP. I've come to suspect the problem with these rings is the cross locking screw is simply too small in diameter and does not provide enough bite into the narrow barrel groove, sans red loctite.

While the Warne rings for the CZ 19mm dovetail hold tight, they are too high for my taste. So I've embarked on a ring-buy (and return)-marathon and so far the best may be the inexpensive Vortex Low hunter model (these are for Pickatinny rails) and the gripping area needs to be beveled. This search is still a work in progress. They do have a relatively large screw and the low ones are only 0.250 from base of ring to bottom. My goal is to be able to take off scope and shoot international competition every now and them, and return rings with a close-to-zero reattachment. Cheers, dipnet

Does anyone know what this part 732-8 does, and is it important?


It seems to me the circlip holds the screw in position, this part doesn't actually do much, maybe its for appearance, maybe its an endstop to prevent the rearsight pulling itself apart and chewing through the circlip if the sight is moved to an extreme of its travel.

?

JamesH wrote:Does anyone know what this part 732-8 does, and is it important?


It seems to me the circlip holds the screw in position, this part doesn't actually do much, maybe its for appearance, maybe its an endstop to prevent the rearsight pulling itself apart and chewing through the circlip if the sight is moved to an extreme of its travel.

?

The part numbers indicate this rear sight assembly is for the SSP, although ALL the Pardini pistols (possible exception being the Free pistol) use this design, dating from 1987. (I've never seen an itemized list of sight parts by "name.")

You'll notice there are two of this part 732-8, used on each axle for the elevation and windage adjustments. I've always thought of them as spacers to position the moving parts and take up any slack in the mechanism where sight precision is required. As such, I think they serve a very useful function, especially on the elevation axle where it rests against the elevation ramp (732-10). I would not remove them...

I bought a second hand Pardini HP .32 last fall.
Seller said that the pistol was bought new in 1992, so it is quite old.. But good condition and works well.

One thing, do you know what that thing on back of bolt is? Marked with arrow in attached photo.

It may be a plug for a cavity used to increase the weight of the bolt.

Hello friends,

I am using a Pardini SP RF Cal .22. pistol. I bought the pistol brand new.
I have shot only two standard pistol matches and one Rapid fire match with this pistol.
altogether I have shot about 600 - 700 rounds.

I am getting a malfunction ( every time the same ) during the matches and training.
I keep the pistol very clean after each session.
I have not done any changes or modifications to the pistol except the grip.

Bridge block comes back after extracting the empty case and hit the upper part of the bullet casing.
end result is bullet get jammed with out chambering correct.
I think the bridge block comes back quickly before the bullet comes up from the magazine. please see the image attached.

usually I get this malfunction after 2 or 3 shots fired when the magazine is filled with 5 rounds.
I checked both magazines time to time and realized it was not the magazine.( it happens for both magazines )

Other important thing is We do not have variety of selection of ammunition.
so I shoot with standard velocity ammunition.

I would be grateful to you if you would help me in this please.

Rgds
Sagara

Perhaps the return spring for the slide is too strong. Is there a preload adjuster for the return spring? Probably not, so if not perhaps you could try a slightly weaker spring. Slide spring strength on some pistols can be very fussy about ammo type, and if your ammunition is not delivering quite a strong enough impulse to fully push the slide back, overwhelming the spring, this could explain the lack of proper chambering. Especially likely considering the timing, half way through a magazine when the action of the magazine spring starts becoming weaker/slower.

sagara wimaladharma wrote:
Other important thing is We do not have variety of selection of ammunition.
so I shoot with standard velocity ammunition.

Which brand of ammo? I have found that CCI is too long for my magazines and doesn't feed very well. All other brands work 100%.

Since its brand new I'm guessing it is:

Ammunition problem
It appears the ammunition is dragging in the magazine. Does it move freely when you're loading it?
What ammunition is it? Brand and type. Its hard to tell from the photo, is that copper-washed ammunition?
The cartridges could be too long for the magazine - measure the overall length and post here.
What is the external diameter of the case rim?
Velocity could be too high or too low.

Magazine problem
Manufacturing defect
Are the magazines perfectly clean? Inner front and back faces?

Some other fault like a wrong recoil spring, foreign object inside it etc.

In my experience Pardini magazines have fairly stiff springs, and they work well with fairly low velocity ammunition, especially the RF version.

I've had this problem with one of my magazines, and there was a clear improvement when I turned the magazine spring 180 degrees.

It's worth trying out, it only takes a minute to open the magazine and flip it. If the spring is weaker at the back-end it will push the ammo down into the magazine, instead of keeping it level to allow it entering the chamber. It looks like this is what's happening in the picture - rim-side is pushed down while the bullet-part is pushed up, making it jam between the bolt and the chamber.

Push the locking pin behind the bottom part of the magazine and slide the base away. Be careful to catch the spring when it opens. Then flip it around and reassemble.

Hi.
I have two pieces of K12 air pistols. I have a problem with my newer K12. It has been leaked since the new. As You see, there is a difference between parts A029. Newer K12 (upper) does not contain o-ring. Should there be a seal? I have a new complete seal kit, but which one is the right?

Sagara,

It looks like the bolt is riding forward on top of the cartridge, rather than getting behind the rim to feed it properly. If the ammo is too weak, or the recoil spring is too strong, the bolt may not be coming back far enough. However, that most often occurs when feeding the 2nd round, because that is when the upward force on the bolt is maximum, causing more drag.

Because the problem is occurring later in the magazine, I suspect the bolt may be coming back far enough, but the magazine isn't feeding the round up fast enough to get in front of the bolt before it starts forward again. This could be from ammunition that doesn't fit in the magazine loosely enough, drag in the magazine, or a weak magazine spring. When the bolt goes forward, it drags the cartridge along enough for the bullet to pop up, but it can't feed the round into the chamber because most of the case is stuck under the slide.

The team I help coach bought 5 new Pardini SP's about a year ago. We also bought some spare magazines. When one pistol had problems, we swapped the magazine for a spare, and it got much worse. I examined the spare magazine, and the mechanism was very rough. In fact, ALL of the new magazines were rough. I found that cycling the follower up and down about 20 times smoothed them out considerably. I suspect there were small burrs in the slot the follower button rides in, and that was causing the roughness.

You might try cycling the magazine followers and see A) how smooth the mechanism feels, and B) if it smooths up with repeated cycling, do that for a bit. With luck, that may "break in" the magazines enough to make the problem go away.

Dear Gerard / James H /Frency 81 / J team / Gwhite,
Thank you all of you for all the concerns.

Ammunition - Armscor Muzzel Velocity - 1135 fps
Cartridge is longer than the Eley pistol.
External diameter of the case rim also bigger than the Eley Pistol.
Magazines perfectly cleaned.
Feeding the cartridges freely.

Frency 81 / G White - I will try what you experienced.

Thank you everyone.

Best Regards
sagara

One thing to remember: The velocity info on the box of most .22 ammo is measured in a rifle barrel, because that is by far the largest market for the stuff. Depending on the burning characteristics of the powder, you are probably getting a lot less than that in the short Pardini barrel. Unless it is specifically sold as pistol ammunition, published velocity is pretty meaningless.

Some powder burns fairly quickly and then less so as the bullet goes down the barrel. Other powder has a slower more sustained burn. In a realtively long rifle barrel, the result can be the same muzzle velocity. In a short pistol barrel, the first one will shoot with significantly higher velocity.

I'd say
The velocity is a bit high on paper. How it behaves from a 120mm barrel who knows. If its too high it can slam back and forth too quickly, not giving the next round time to lift.
If the rim dia and overall length are on the high side it could be dragging, but if you say its not then it must be something else. Can you measure them?
Are you sure you're loading the magazine properly? It helps with a pardini to press the rim of the last case down, so the nose of the first bullet flips up.
Can you try someone elses ammunition and magazines?

If you have access to a slow motion enabled camera of some sort you may be able to spot what is going wrong with the shot cycle. I've found the 300fps video setting in my Sanyo HD1010 to be quite useful in examining recoil behavior in spring-piston airguns for instance. Played back at 60fps I am able to notice events which are much too quick for real-time viewing. Slowing playback down much further helps even more - VLC for example can slow video playback to as little as 1/3 of 1% of normal playing speed.

Good point, also I've just discovered my Olympus TG3 will do 240fps. Now to try it out.

Hello Sagara,
How are you making out with your Pardini issues?
I have found that my Pardini SP will only function correctly with shorter ammunition that measures about 0.969" / 24.6mm.
Most ammunition is 0.020" longer and seems to jam leaving the mag.

Regards
John
[quote="sagara wimaladharma"]Dear Gerard / James H /Frency 81 / J team / Gwhite,
Thank you all of you for all the concerns.

Ammunition - Armscor Muzzel Velocity - 1135 fps
Cartridge is longer than the Eley pistol.
External diameter of the case rim also bigger than the Eley Pistol.
Magazines perfectly cleaned.
Feeding the cartridges freely.

Frency 81 / G White - I will try what you experienced.

Thank you everyone.

Best Regards
sagara[/quote]

Pardini K12 absorber:

There is AB -screw on top of the bolt. Manual says "absorber setting". There's no other information I could find. Should the screw always be on factory setting? Or if it can be changed, how does it affect to the absorber?