TargetTalk

That will ruin the spring imo. Order a new spring and replace. In the meantime I would change the cylinder before it gets to the yellow line. (Latest cylinders only have a red and green band.)[/quote]

I haven't seen the new cylinder with no yellow zone. So the cylinder has upper red zone and rest green zone? You can shoot with same pressure until zero BAR?

In the meantime I would change the cylinder before it gets to the yellow line. (Latest cylinders only have a red and green band.)[/quote]

So the new cylinder has only upper red zone and rest green zone? You can shoot until zero Bar with same pressure output?

Green goes from 200 to about 40 or 50 (not marked) where there is a pin stop for the needle. I change the cylinder when it gets to the 60 mark.

Looking at my notes for my newish LP10 Compact, I was getting 94 or 95 shots with a compact cylinder before the vel dropped from average 159/160 ms with 7 gr pellets. Shot no 96 was 155 ms then the vel continued to drop.

After 90 shots
91 161.7 530 fps
92 162.2
93 161.3
94 159.5 523 fps
95 158.2
96 155
97 154.6
98
99 151.4
100 150.1 492 fps

New and old

Are the Steyr gauges any more accurate than the ones Morini uses?

My Morini gauges vary quite a bit form cylinder to cylinder. As a guess, I'd say at least plus or minus 20 bar. I use the high quality gauge on my Hill pump to determine when I have hit 200 bar, and on some cylinders I end up in the red zone while others are still well into the green. Also, the lockout on the trigger actuates at very different indicated pressures. On some cylinders it kicks in while I'm at the bottom of the green, and others it goes into the yellow quite a ways.

seamaster wrote:
Screw in the velocity screw any more, it becomes dangerous. It fires when catch lever is compressed down.

Most likely the hammer spring is then coilbound and the sears are not fully engaging. Back it out!
Adding washers would cause the same problem but with less of the adjuster screwed in. (Washer trick is only for springer rifles or hammers without adjuster.)
Pulling out a spring to make it longer will destroy it.

As above get a new hammer spring.

Hope the chrono seamaster is using is accurate.

Picture of my cylinders all filled from the same scuba tank. Three gauges good one a bit low.

Are hammer pressure spring #52 and stabilizer pressure spring #64 identical?

Tempting to just swap the two since #64 is less critical than #52

What is the point. Even if you can work out that the springs started life the same. They are both used now and of unknown condition.

It ain't got that swing if you ain't got that spring!

I think he just doesn't want to pay the huge and exorbitant cost of a new spring.

Problem. Slow pistol low shot count.
Possible causes for low velocity
1. Chrono telling lies
2. Hammer spring worn out
3. Valve binding in frame.
4. Regulator Stuffed.
5. Air leak in cylinder, valve, O-rings.
6. Major leak after valve.
7. I am sure there are other reasons

Possible causes for low shot count
1 It is a compact Steyr, still have not worked out if it a compact or normal LP10.
2 Velocity to high. Chrono telling lies again
3 Cylinders leaking
4 Leaking valve in pistol
5 Leaks in pistol O-rings
6 Major leak after valve
7 I am sure there are other reasons

A leaking cylinder is easy to check. Fill it up leave overnight recheck in the morning.
Leaking valve or seals in pistol Put full cylinder on pistol overnight check again in the morning. If leaking need new valve or seals in pistol. No point changing seals over and over unless you establish there is a leaking seal.
Velocity too high, need to verify chrono.
Low velocity low shot count normally do not go together. My cylinders do not leak at all. They do not loose air when on the pistol for an extended time. My LP1 had the original hammer spring when it was disposed of. My LP10 is five years old and the hammer spring has only been adjusted once. And that was to raise the velocity 5m/s, less than 1/8 turn needed.

"A leaking cylinder is easy to check. Fill it up leave overnight recheck in the morning."

If you don't want to wait, just stick the cylinder in a glass of water and look for the bubbles. I don't recommend this for the entire gun. Probably wouldn't hurt, though.

Most my LP 10's ever got was 120 shots on a long cylinder, 90 on a short. If you want 180 real shots on one cylinder you want a Walther LP400.

Got the replacement hammer spring. Compared to original spring, only 1mm in length difference, but shoot much stronger.

Cocking much strong, shooting much stronger, velocity up.

So strong, it obliterates first stage trigger pull, now need to readjust trigger stage.

Rover, saw your post on shooter's lounge before banned. This day and age, why still making disgusting racial stuff that make people curse your mother?

"Rover, saw your post on shooter's lounge before banned. This day and age, why still making disgusting racial stuff that make people curse your mother?"

Racial stuff? What, are you nuts?

The realistic consumption is approx. 1 bar per shot with light 4.49 pellet @ 155m/s (about 100 shots from 200 to 100 bar).

Or about 70 shots with 4.51 and heavy 8.18gr pellet @155m/s (from 200 to 100 bar)

Steyr valve's pressure is 70 bar. If the pressure in the cylinder drops below 70 bar - the system will not work any more as designed. The "channel" between cylinder and valve camera cannot be properly "closed" if valve's pressure drops below 70 bar... also... you will shoot with the air direct from the cylinder ;-)

Steyr sells special tool to check valve (makes no sense to buy if You want repair your only one pistol). With the tool you can check the pressure in the valve and if it is "reloaded" with air properly after the shot. If not - you can change stacked Belleville washers and seals in the valve or replace the valve completely (35€?).

I would not play too much with velocity screw at max. velocity setup. I would say you will damage your trigger sear or trigger at all.