TargetTalk

I would try to keep the mass low. Aluminum or Delrin (acetal) are preferable to heaver materials such as steels or brass.
Gort

David W. Johnson wrote:I wonder if this would work with nylon?

Make sure you use a "dense" nylon that can hold a tread for the set screw. That´s the only problem I see with using nylon.
It´s not a part that's subjected to a lot of stress, 500g in a smooth continuous pull is not that much. Different story for rim or center fire.

An aluminium rod would be my option, as it's much easier to work that stainless, specially without a lathe. A simple drill press will do. Also holds a tread much better that most plastics do.
Cut a longer piece than you need, chuck it in the drill to trim the diameter down (a simple file will do), polish and to make the center cut for the trigger pull weight, then drill for the rod and set screw, and tap for the screw.
Cut the finnish piece to length and make sure the cut for the trigger pull weight is in the center of your new trigger. Polish the finnish trigger to remove any sharp edges from the cut. You can chuck it in the drill to do that. It's quite simple.

I like your idea. I'm going to try it. Thanks!

David

Thank you for the idea of using a stick trigger.

I swapped my Hammerli air rifle stick trigger to LP10. Stick trigger does feel more precise. Much better at steering the trigger back.

Wondering why stick triggers are not used more frequently in pistols as in the rifles?

Thank you Gentlemen. I was so happy with the triggers feel on the Steyr that I made one for the Morini. A little more complex to make with a 6mm x 1mm dovetail on a 15 angle. I made a prototype out of flat stock (next to the original trigger), but went back to an 8.5mm cylinder for the Morini also.
Gort

If you decide to make these to sale let us know. I coach a 4-H air pistol team, we have 6 Steyr's and 4 Morini's and I know I'd like to try one.

David Haire
Tift County, Georgia 4-H Shooting Sports

Haireacane wrote:If you decide to make these to sale let us know. I coach a 4-H air pistol team, we have 6 Steyr's and 4 Morini's and I know I'd like to try one.

David Haire
Tift County, Georgia 4-H Shooting Sports

I think a few of us would.

David

That's it then!
Gort, now you just have to make a whole bunch
of those sweet little stick triggers.

Oh, and I'll just sign up for a few right away :)

Steyr LP10 Trigger Stick Trigger Shoe for sale in "Buy, Sell, Trade"
Gort

Anyone know if the LP10 trigger is identical to the Anschutz LP-@? Looking at Gort's picture, it looks like the part that attaches to the horizontal part is does not extend down into the trigger guard area as much.

David

David W. Johnson wrote:Anyone know if the LP10 trigger is identical to the Anschutz LP-@? Looking at Gort's picture, it looks like the part that attaches to the horizontal part is does not extend down into the trigger guard area as much.

David

At some point during LP10 production, Steyr made the trigger guard opening bigger (for fat fingers!). Maybe thats the difference you are seeing.

That would be a seriously fat finger...

But I was talking about the point where the 'stick' that Gort describes as 2.5mm extends down from the horizontal bar. Mine looks to extend down farther. However, looking at his newest pics on the Buy, Sell, Trade forum, I wonder if he inlet the shoe so that it covers that portion.

See if this picture helps clarify.

David, without having the pistol in front of me, it is had to tell. The thick part of the stem would need a relief cut, the overall length, set screw location and grove would have to change to clear the trigger guard and length. Without a detail drawing, I would be guessing.
Gort

This will not go well for you if I ever get famous and have a biography. You realize that, right?

Thanks for looking. I have no idea why they felt the need to change this item between the two. However, my aluminum stock came in the mail today, so I get to try my hand at this nifty little mod. Thanks for the inspiration!

David

Nice job!

I had the same problem with an old Tau 7, never shot well with that trigger shoe. I made one out of 5/16" steel and used a 3 corner "Saw" file to cut the notches in it for O-rings. Drilled the center out and coutnerbored it for the screw head. Worked great, score went up and felt so much better.

Now that I have a South Bend 13" lathe, the way I made that makes me cringe now!!!

Shot better with this stick trigger.

I put on two o-rings on the trigger for 500 gm trigger weight check.

Where I put the two o-rings made quite a difference in weight check.

All the way down stick, 500gm easily click off. All the way up close to clamp, 500gm hardly budge at all.

I guess it is simple physics torque principle.

So with this sliding o-ring trigger check site, I can easily set the weight to below 500gm and pass the 500gm check.

Any thought on this?

Seamaster, The rules specify the trigger must be weighed in the middle of the trigger. Weighing the trigger other than the middle changes the length of the lever, hence changes the weight.
Gort