TargetTalk

David M wrote: ↑Tue Apr 02, 2019 3:48 am
Use the "PS" screw to set the disengage bar clearance to allow trigger reset (some small rattle is required).

Thanks David for your simple instructions on setting the trigger, and to Doug White for the diagrams, especially the first one which helps clarify what all the parts are and what they do to each other. Once you understand how it all works, it’s a remarkably simple system and being able to see all the screws and what they do on the pistol helps enormously.

I'd just add a comment that I think you can edit in the post David (and should do as this is almost a sticky) and that is that the screw referred to as “PS” in the penultimate line should read “PG”, I think. Most would realise this but some might not.

Thanks again.

Bob

Done , Ta

Curious, does this work for the GT45 as well?

Similar principle for the second stage adjustment with inner and outer settings for trigger point and 2nd stage weight (screw 1) but the sear screw is much more critical.
Best to leave alone if you dont know what you are doing.

hi @Gwhite (or somebody else)
do you per chance have a similar trigger setup instruction diagram for Walther GSP 2 starge trigger?
i have the parts diagram , but i don;t know exactly how to adjust it properly.
the way i managed to set it up it feels... mushy

I have never taken a detailed look at the GSP trigger. It is a VERY different mechanical design from the .22 triggers I'm familiar with (which are all Italian, and use a spring loaded ball inside a screw for the 2nd stage).

I'm also not sure what a "mushy" trigger is. 1st stage or 2nd stage? As a guess, I'd A) make sure everything is clean & lubricated, and B) see if adjusting #33 helps.

The principal is just the same, 1st stage travel and weight, trigger point with 2nd stage weight.
It just uses a different way of adjusting with angled cones and screws.
The adjustment is a lot coarser and needs fine setting with a very clean trigger assy.
One caused me a lot of pain years ago with varying settings due to offset ground screws.
21 - Sear engagement, Sets sear engagement and total trigger travel.
22 - Trigger bar travel, sets clearance on transfer bar to allow trigger re-set.
23 - Trigger Stop. Sets trigger over travel,
31 - Ist stage weight
32 - 2nd stage weight
33 - Trigger point, this sets the position that 2nd stage comes into effect.
Best way to set is to load up screw 32 (2nd stage weight) so that you can feel it heavy.
Cock the hammer and gently pull trigger aft to sit on 2nd stage weight point.
Then slowly turn 33 "in "(clockwise) until the hammer falls.
This establishes the trigger point position. Turn screw 33 "out" 1/8 to 1/2 turn for trigger
2nd stage travel feel and then set trigger weights both 1st and 2nd stage.

Is there a rule of thumb for the trigger adjustments necessary to compensate for moving the trigger blade back or forward? Or is it negligible to the SP trigger internals?

The difference will be pretty tiny unless you make a big change. I'd definitely check the weight afterward, but I've never noticed anything big enough to "compensate" for.

Much appreciated!