Feiwerbau AW93
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thank you
Thanks,SteveT wrote:A simple search finds: http://brenzovich.com/
I had no idea "George Brenzovich" would be a web site. However the website appears to be plagued with technical difficulty and requires a log in to send an e mail!
xeye
Brenzovich
I met Mr. Brenzovich at Camp Perry this year, seems to be a nice guy, I belive he coaches rifle in some College in Texas. As to his Website, I really dislike the fact the there are no prices posted. Moreover, twice I have e-mailed him requesting prices and as of today, no response have been received.
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- Posts: 583
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
- Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada
With respect to the weight of the pistol, mine weighs in at 1205 grams, including Rink grips and and empty magazine. This is 215 grams heavier than my MG-2 in a similar condition, and within a few grams of my Morini CM-84 free pistol. Yes, the AW-93 is heavy for a standard pistol of modern manufacture, but feels very good in the hand.
As for the "breaking glass" crisp trigger, I'd appreciate any pointers that might be available to make mine more crisp. Seems to take a long pull to disengage the sear, and I've spent more than a few hours fiddling with it. It seems that the screw which controls sear engagement, located in the rear strap of the pistol, has a maximum limit on how far it may be screwed inwards, thus limiting the minimum sear engagement to what the manufacturer might consider a safe amount. The net result in my case is a long 2nd stage pull, even when seemingly adjusted to absolute minimums. Any suggestions from experienced AW-93 trigger adjusters out there?
As for the "breaking glass" crisp trigger, I'd appreciate any pointers that might be available to make mine more crisp. Seems to take a long pull to disengage the sear, and I've spent more than a few hours fiddling with it. It seems that the screw which controls sear engagement, located in the rear strap of the pistol, has a maximum limit on how far it may be screwed inwards, thus limiting the minimum sear engagement to what the manufacturer might consider a safe amount. The net result in my case is a long 2nd stage pull, even when seemingly adjusted to absolute minimums. Any suggestions from experienced AW-93 trigger adjusters out there?
Mark,
Here's how I set my trigger up. I hope it's of some help.
first, run out the triggerstop screw 22. Then run out screw 26 in back of the frame. I set the trigger slack as short as can be and still be very safe, by turning screw 20 until the gun when the slide is cycled with the trigger held down will drop the hammer. Then back it off to a comfortable safety distance and reset the screw 26 again. Repeat this procedure until you get the firststage as short as you feel comfortable, while still having the screw 26 have a just a hair of slack so that the bar drops into the groove consistantly when you take your finger off the trigger.
Set trigger point screw 21 to the right until the second stage goes away, and then back it to the left until it feels somewhat crisp. This is the important screw that lets you have a rolling release or a crisp release.
Here's where I found the most difficulties, if the second stage weight is too light, it won't give a consistant feel to the letoff when it's set crisp. I was getting a sort of slight bump feel from the edge of the second stage sear when it was set too light, which went away as the second stage weight was increased a little. When the second stage feels right, that's when to set the letoff slightly crisper. I then set the first stage weight to legal spec. Then I set the screw 26 in back of the frame again so that the bar has that slight hair of slack again. Then set trigger stop back enough so that the sear won't drag.
I hope that makes sense, as right now I'm just going from memory and the manual for the screw numbers.
I think the biggest area of concern is to set the second stage weight high enough to put some pressure on the parts.
Even though the trigger is simple in its workings, I did also have a hell of a time messing with it until I got it feeling right, and now I ain't touchin it again.
Hope this helps.
—Walt
Here's how I set my trigger up. I hope it's of some help.
first, run out the triggerstop screw 22. Then run out screw 26 in back of the frame. I set the trigger slack as short as can be and still be very safe, by turning screw 20 until the gun when the slide is cycled with the trigger held down will drop the hammer. Then back it off to a comfortable safety distance and reset the screw 26 again. Repeat this procedure until you get the firststage as short as you feel comfortable, while still having the screw 26 have a just a hair of slack so that the bar drops into the groove consistantly when you take your finger off the trigger.
Set trigger point screw 21 to the right until the second stage goes away, and then back it to the left until it feels somewhat crisp. This is the important screw that lets you have a rolling release or a crisp release.
Here's where I found the most difficulties, if the second stage weight is too light, it won't give a consistant feel to the letoff when it's set crisp. I was getting a sort of slight bump feel from the edge of the second stage sear when it was set too light, which went away as the second stage weight was increased a little. When the second stage feels right, that's when to set the letoff slightly crisper. I then set the first stage weight to legal spec. Then I set the screw 26 in back of the frame again so that the bar has that slight hair of slack again. Then set trigger stop back enough so that the sear won't drag.
I hope that makes sense, as right now I'm just going from memory and the manual for the screw numbers.
I think the biggest area of concern is to set the second stage weight high enough to put some pressure on the parts.
Even though the trigger is simple in its workings, I did also have a hell of a time messing with it until I got it feeling right, and now I ain't touchin it again.
Hope this helps.
—Walt
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- Posts: 583
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
- Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada
Walt - thanks for the tips. They certainly make sense because, after hours of playing with the thing, I arrived at essentially the same adjustment technique. That second stage weight is indeed critical to getting a consistant feel - if it's too low the first shot feels different from all subsequent shots too. My trigger is now feeling pretty good and I'm hoping to run a bunch of ammo through it tonight to ensure it's properly adjusted.
Too bad my chamber is still too tight to allow consistant feeding of ammo. I'm hoping my local dealer gets the FWB "custom chamber tool" soon so we can get this fixed.
Too bad my chamber is still too tight to allow consistant feeding of ammo. I'm hoping my local dealer gets the FWB "custom chamber tool" soon so we can get this fixed.
tight chamber
hi mark
Having done 5 fwb's ,the custom chamber expander is a length of 1/4 inch hardwood dowel, with a fine saw cut across the diameter about 1 inch along the dowel.
Remove the grip and plastic insert. remove the slide.
Use very fine wet/dry emery paper (1200 grit) with medium oil , passed thru the slot and wrapped around the dowel.
Hand turn the dowel in the chamber whilst moving the dowel in and out ( this porduces a fine figure 8 pattern in the chamber).
Remember only a very small amount is to be removed. Take care not to go too deep into the throat,
Finish with a cotton cloth on the dowel and a very small amount of Mag. wheel polish, then clean the barrel.
Having done 5 fwb's ,the custom chamber expander is a length of 1/4 inch hardwood dowel, with a fine saw cut across the diameter about 1 inch along the dowel.
Remove the grip and plastic insert. remove the slide.
Use very fine wet/dry emery paper (1200 grit) with medium oil , passed thru the slot and wrapped around the dowel.
Hand turn the dowel in the chamber whilst moving the dowel in and out ( this porduces a fine figure 8 pattern in the chamber).
Remember only a very small amount is to be removed. Take care not to go too deep into the throat,
Finish with a cotton cloth on the dowel and a very small amount of Mag. wheel polish, then clean the barrel.
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- Posts: 583
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
- Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada
I just wanted to get some more information on this problem, as I think I'm experiencing it, too. I've read a post by someone named Mark Briggs here on this forum, who had a 54XX series AW93 which also required reaming of the chamber.Anonymous wrote:One not-too-positive sidebar note on the AW-93 has to do with the chamber. Two out of two units sold by our local dealer have had problems with really tight chambers, including my example. A friend owns the other example and this past spring at the W.C. and Ft Benning the Feinwerkbau reps reamed the chamber for her. It now functions quite well. My example has yet to be reamed, although the chamber has had quite a lot of intensive polishing in an attempt to make it function better. I'm hoping my dealer will be successful in convincing FWB to ship us the tools necessary to ream the chamber. It's a shame to see such a beautiful pistol malfunction repeatedly.
How did your problems manifest? Mine are as follows: Frequently, with almost any kind of ammunition, the spent shell casing fails to eject, and gets stuck half-way in the chamber. A good deal of muscle and a pair of pliers are often required to get it out. Worst of all was the Eley Standard ammunition, there it happened with every single round, best was RWS Standar,d with about 2 in 100 rounds having this problem. I've also tried Fiocci Maxac, CCI Standard, with about 2 in 50 rounds having said problem.
Sometimes the slide does not manage to chamber the next round when cycling, and I don't see any marks on the top bullett when checking. Plus the magazine is fully inserted, I checked.
Other times, when loading a magazine, the slide fails to push the first round entirely into the chamber and has to be pushed forward by hand.
I have never seen any Feinwerkbau with this problem, nor have any of the others who had anything to do with it over here that I know of (in Norway, that is). It does sound like a very tight chamber, or?
Another thing which might be interesting is that my guns is a very late 53XX series, perhaps there could be a connection to Mark's case?
Anyway, reaming the chamber has been suggested by both you and Mark - who did that work? I don't really want to send it back to Feinwerkbau to have it done. If I find a gunsmith willing to do this, does anyone have the correct measurements?
Regards,
Hannes
Re: Weight of AW93
The Pardini weighs 1.06Kg; not much lighter. However IMO the wight in the AW93 is more muzzle biased than the Pardini.xeye wrote:Why is everyone saying this gun is heavy? The specs on the internet say it weighs 1.13 Kg (2.48 lbs). Isn't that about what the Pardini weighs?
According to Rink grip info the version started from 3400.http://www.formgriffe.de/en/shpSR.php?p ... ort-pistolJohnLK wrote:Can anyone say with what serial number did the latest version of this pistol
start with?
Thanks!
JLK
Re: Feiwerbau AW93
Walter or Mark,
Just finished setting up one of these triggers following your instructions. One question, at the end, how will I know when screw 26 is set correctly?
TIA
Stan
Just finished setting up one of these triggers following your instructions. One question, at the end, how will I know when screw 26 is set correctly?
TIA
Stan
Re: Feiwerbau AW93
This is covered in the manual. You want the minimum gap - almost touching. I marked it in the snip below:
Re: Feiwerbau AW93
xeye...... re contact information: http://www.brenzovich.com/index.php?
phone: 915-204-7977
phone: 915-204-7977
Hammer to shape, file to fit, paint to match...