The air consumption of the Steyr LP10

[northpaw]

How may I be able to "disconnect", say eliminating any movement of, the absorber piston of a LP10 ?
I don`t need that recoilreducing feature, and it consumes a lot of air.
BTW, I , of course (!), know that I can press Down the black latch at the upper front of bolt, for every damned shot...that is NOT what I`m asking about. And I also know I then could have purchased a LP2, but again, that is not the advice I need.
I simply want the absorber piston to stay put at its very forward position during a whole match. (And, no, I`m not going to use any glue :-) )

[seamaster]

Two options.

Take the tungsten absorber out. Make sure you don't lose the tiny springs.

In baseball, that would be call "a long run for a short slide".

Option two, just stick some small piece of hard object on top of the black latch to keep latch down in the absorber off position. Reinforce with tight tape to keep the latch down.

I think it is the more sensible of the two options.

[j-team]

You could shorten the rearsight attaching screw so it doesn't reset the weight (it protrudes through and pushes the weight forward as you cock the pistol). That doesn't leave it in the forward position as per your desire, but stops it operating.

But, it will not change the air consumption (neither will the other solutions above). The only was to stop that is to physically block the small air bleed hole in the bolt (can't think of a tidy way of doing that other than gluing something in there!).

I agree that the LP10 is hungry on air. But, for me, it's worth it as I like the effect of the stabiliser.

[micken]

Hi, I'm interested to know what you consider to be 'hungry on air' for the LP10. How many shots do you get in the full length pistol and how many more do you want?

Two full length cylinders give me 300+ well regulated shots. Am I missing something?

I keep a 3l 300bar cylinder in the car for refills, but I must admit that I use a 7l one out of preference for my LP50 compact that gives me 65 shots per fill. I don't mind that too much, considering how much fun it is to shoot.

Best regards,

Mick

[rmca]

How may I be able to "disconnect", say eliminating any movement of, the absorber piston of a LP10 ?
I don`t need that recoil reducing feature, and it consumes a lot of air.

First, let me start by saying that an LP10 with a long tank at 200 bar is good for about 160 shots. If you have less than that adjust it, as instructed in the service videos.
http://www.steyr-sport.com/index.php/en ... ice-movies

Second, the absorber doesn't consume any more air on it's own, it uses the pressure of the air that is going to propel the pellet to disconnect the latch on top. The movement of the absorber is done via a spring. If you want to completely remove the absorber movement you have to stuck it in place or find something to occupy its place so that the pressure doesn't escape.

To me what you are trying to do doesn't make any sense whatsoever. If the gun is consuming more air (less than 150 shots per full tank, at about 155 meters per second), you have the videos that explain how to adjust it. What you are asking, and what you are trying to accomplish are not in sync. Don't take this the wrong way, I'm trying to help. But to me it doesn't make any sense what you are trying to do.

Hope this helps

[flolo]

1. watch the steyr- video on how to set-up the absorber, and especially how to remove it .
2. the (black) latch is driven by air, but the absorber is driven by a spring.
3. you now have two options: complete removal of the absorber(which gives you a different balance) or: just remove the spring that drives it backwards, and then you should block the absorber by some tape, glue or whatever so it's not moving any more. Cons: no idea if there's any harm in longterm use, and the latch still moves on every shot(feel?)

[David W. Johnson]

I just started shooting my Anschutz LP-@. I understand it is identical to the Steyr LP 10. I just topped off my 200bar cylinders the other night. I've shot 70 rounds and it is half way through the green area. Sound about right?

I was watching to see how many shots I get per cylinder, but I saw this thread and thought I would get someone to give me a heads up on what I'm going to find out.

Thanks!

David

[northpaw]

From the factory, the several LP10s I have seen in our club, have had the pellet velocity set quite low from the factory, say some 140 m/s only.

Velocity set at 150 - 155 m/s, then the number of shot we get until the volicity starts to decrease steadily, is roughly 100 only. The pressure indicator is then still in the green field, but close to the low limit.
If set to the fatory recommendation of 155 -160 m/s, one 200 bar long cylinder will only last some 75 shot. From that count on, the velocity decreases steadily. And, no, our guns are not leaking.

300 full power shots from one standard long 200 bar CA cylinder, someone wrote? A very, very slight exageration, that is, I believe :-)
One CA 200 bar long cylinder lasts some 110 shots ( at 145 m/s) in my LP50.

I`ll block off the air inlet to the absorber, then insert a short piece of aluminium tubing behind the absorber sliding weight. The tubing will rest against the pin at the upper rear of the absorber, the protruding end of rear sight fixing screw, that is.
In my opinion, an absorber introduces one more variable to a gun.

[therider]

I have similar experience. I thought that there was a leak, but they checked and said its perfect.
I have not measured when the speed starts decaying. However I have made an ammunition test and clearly seen that grouping deteriorates after about 80-100 shots.

[micken]

300 full power shots from one standard long 200 bar CA cylinder, someone wrote? A very, very slight exageration, that is, I believe :-)

If you are referring to my reply then you've misread. I said 300+ shots from two full length cylinders. This is from an LP10 set up by our UK importer optimised to the pellets I use at 10m. So no exaggeration.

Alternatively my LP50 compact gives 65 shots per cylinder but the power has been raised on that to optimise its grouping at 25m. No exaggeration there either, just spot on accuracy.

Horses for courses.

Best regards,

Mick

[Wynne G Oldman]

Excuse me for my ignorance, as I'm relatively new to this game, but why the hell would you want to mess around with a pistol that seems to be so successful to the point that the majority of top shooters in this sport use it?

[Rover]

'Cause he shoulda bought a SSP.

[northpaw]

'Cause he shoulda bought a SSP.

No, no, ya punk!

but why the hell would you want to mess around

Your question is answered in former posts of this thread.

Easist way to eliminate absorber-weight movement is problably to insert a small objekt under latch, which will then prevent the latch from unlocking the sliding weight at discharge.

The unusually high air comsumption of the LP10 is caused by the vented barrel, relatively large volum of transferport, and consumption of some air to unlocks the latch, I think?
To my knowledge, no other similar match pistol has so low cylinder "mileage".
At the recommended factore pellet velocity setting, close to 160 m/s, one cylinder is good for just 70 - 75 shots. Barely enough for a 60 shot match with sighters.
According to ISSF regulations, a participant is not allowed to switch cylinder during a match, I recon.

[David Levene]

According to ISSF regulations, a participant is not allowed to switch cylinder during a match, I recon.

6.11.2.3
If an athlete wishes to change, or to fill, a gas or air cylinder, he must leave the firing point to do so, after obtaining permission from the Range Officer. No extra time is allowed to change or fill a gas or air cylinder during a competition.

[rmca]

At the recommended factore pellet velocity setting, close to 160 m/s, one cylinder is good for just 70 - 75 shots. Barely enough for a 60 shot match with sighters.

That is way too low for a full cylinder. A "standard" one, not the short one, should give you twice those shots.

Before you start messing with the absorber, check this first:

When you fill it, do you have any other manometer (on the tank or pump) to make sure that you are filling it to 200 bar? Or are you just relying on the cylinder manometer?
If you leave a cylinder screwed in does the pistol lose air over a 24/48h period?

Watch the videos I mentioned, and if you still can fix it, send it to someone you can (the factory or an authorized dealer).
If the pistol is still under warranty, that problem should be covered and fixed under warranty.

My guess, and it's just a guess, is that you probably need new o-rings or a new pressure reducing valve (part 29).

The unusually high air comsumption of the LP10 is caused by the vented barrel, relatively large volum of transferport, and consumption of some air to unlocks the latch, I think?

No. By the time the pressure reaches those locations on the pistol the valve should be already shut, so no more air is passing through.

Hope this helps

[northpaw]

That is way too low for a full cylinder. A "standard" one, not the short one, should give you twice those shots.

3 LP 10s in my club, all have roughly same mileage at same velocity setting.
Is the statement of yours above what you believe, from reading that count at the homepages of Steyr? Or have you experienced this yourself?
Be aware of the low velocity setting many LP 10s have when shipped from the factory...At that very low setting, the mileage will increase dramatically, of course.
And, in my club, we all use the standard long cylinders.

Before you start messing with the absorber

I`m not "messing", just putting it out of action. :-) Mostly due to the variability it introduces to a gun.

When you fill it, do you have any other manometer (on the tank or pump) to make sure that you are filling it to 200 bar?

But, of course. We have a composite 12 l tank, manometer permanent part of the crane at top of tank, delivered directly from producer. Pressure reading controlled and verifyed by produser, in Britain.

Or are you just relying on the cylinder manometer?

No, they are not very accurate, variation of 5% or so, judged from at gauge-indicator-pointer, experienced among our cylinders.

If you leave a cylinder screwed in does the pistol lose air over a 24/48h period?

As said before, our guns are not leaking.

Watch the videos I mentioned, and if you still can fix it, send it to someone you...

In our club, there are a couple of very experienced, former top notch, marksmen...quite familiar with any adjustment of the Steyr air guns. And, we have all watched those instruction-videos. The videos are great, btw.

My guess, and it's just a guess, is that you probably need new o-rings or a new pressure reducing valve (part 29).

Our guns are not leaking....

No. By the time the pressure reaches those locations on the pistol the valve should be already shut, so no more air is passing through.

No. The vents of the barrel will reduce pressure behind pellet, hence, more air is needed to reach intended velocity, relative to an unventet barrel. Pellet is accelerated all the way through the barrel, at least at the said relatively high velocities.

Let me ask: do you, these days, own and use a LP 10 yourself? Just let me guess, .... no?

[rmca]

Let me ask: do you, these days, own and use a LP 10 yourself? Just let me guess, .... no?

Wrong!

I don't have the habit of talking about things I do not know. I have worked on quite a few airguns (and cartridge guns for that matter), including Steyrs. From simple things as adjusting velocity or changing o-rings to a complete disassembly of two broken Feiwerkbau C55 to get one functioning. The other one needed two parts that were broken.

I do own and shoot an LP10, and it's a recent one (Nov-2011). And mine does about 140 to 150 shots with a full cylinder.
The velocity, with H&N Final Match Pistol pellets (4,49) is around 155 m/s, with a variation of a couple of meters up/down from shot to shot.
Measured today by the way, as I had a chronograph to adjust a friends CO2 LP1 that I was converting to AC.

The vents of the barrel will reduce pressure behind pellet, hence, more air is needed to reach intended velocity, relative to an unventet barrel. Pellet is accelerated all the way through the barrel, at least at the said relatively high velocities.

Wrong again!

Of course the barrel vents will decrease the pressure, but that's not the point! The valve is well closed by the time the pressure gets to the pellet.
So, even if you stick the absorber in place, or plug the holes, your air consumption will not change! You might get a small increase in speed, emphasis on "small", but your problem still remains.

As I said, there is something wrong with the gun (or guns?), so if I was in your shoes I would send it to an authorized dealer or to the factory, whatever was cheaper.

Hope this helps

[therider]

Interestingly, with my LP10E i will never reach 150 shots, and the velocity has been recently checked and is in the range previsously mentioned. Also, one month after having purchased it I sent it back to Steyr, because I was sure that there was a leak. However they returned it saying that everything was perfect.

I am surprised by the variation in speed from shot to shot.

Today I drove to Parma, to see Cesare Morini and I asked him to check the speed of my MGH1.
It was set at 176m/s and he said it was to high, so he reduced it to 172m/s.

Even more interestingly, the standard variation on 10 shots was 0.4 m/s....apparently this is a very low value.

[therider]

and , by the way, i can easily shoot 150 shots with the MGH1, despite it was set at 176m/s!
May be that is becase, as Cesare explained me today, the pistol uses very little air, as compared to standard design.

[j-team]

My last 4 air pistols have been Steyr LP10, Pardini K2, Pardini K10 and now Steyr LP10e.

Both Pardinis would get amost double the amount of shots per cylinder than the Steyrs. Although the Pardini does have a physically larger cylinder, I think that they Steyr is simply an air hungry design.

Also worth noting is that the later Steyr cylinder gauges no longer have the yellow zone indicating pressuer is low, they are now green all the way to the stop. I can tell you from machine rest testing that your point of impact will start to drop as you approach 60 bar (still well off the stop and still in the green on the new gauges), if you keep shooting below 60 bar your shots will be dropping well below the ten ring!

I would not be confident firing more than about 100 shots from a completely full LP10 cylinder, and would definately top up between match and final.

Edited to add pic of group, the dropping group is 20 shots.