Pardini Questions and Answers
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- milevsport
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:47 pm
- Location: Tampa
PC45S
Shane,
PC45S should be the silver finish earlier version of the GT45.
I'd suggest you can cut out the grip around the slide release so it doesn't obstruct the function. After that you can use oil to get it back to the stained color you have on.
Regarding the trigger, probably one of the trigger adjustment screws is a bit loose and is turning in to increase the weight of the trigger. I'd guess is the trigger stop, but it could be other screw too.
Trigger stop is one of the screws in front of the trigger, not the one with cuts for flat head screwdriver. I think with the recoil it moves in and when squeeze the trigger, you're pressing on that screw.
You can take it of and with light hammer tap the threads a little, so it is rubbing against the threads in the frame. Or once you know for sure which one it is, you can replace it.
Best regards
Emil
PC45S should be the silver finish earlier version of the GT45.
I'd suggest you can cut out the grip around the slide release so it doesn't obstruct the function. After that you can use oil to get it back to the stained color you have on.
Regarding the trigger, probably one of the trigger adjustment screws is a bit loose and is turning in to increase the weight of the trigger. I'd guess is the trigger stop, but it could be other screw too.
Trigger stop is one of the screws in front of the trigger, not the one with cuts for flat head screwdriver. I think with the recoil it moves in and when squeeze the trigger, you're pressing on that screw.
You can take it of and with light hammer tap the threads a little, so it is rubbing against the threads in the frame. Or once you know for sure which one it is, you can replace it.
Best regards
Emil
I just received a couple of magazines from Pardini USA and fired the SP for the first time. What a pleasant experience! Both magazines however don't seem to fit correct. One will sometimes slide down just enough before the last shot preventing the round from loading. Both magazines don't slide in easily and are hard to remove. One sticks in the chamber and very tough to remove. Is there a fix for this? Both magazines seem to feed the rounds fine except for the one that moves before the last round.
I, personally, have never had any troubles but teammate of mine had troubles with both new magazines. It was not so easy to insert the magazine and the second problem - the magazine blocked the slide a little bit (caused abrasion between magazine and bottom of the slide). We were able to fix the problem with a file.beeser wrote:I just received a couple of magazines from Pardini...
Thanks ruig! On the surface this makes more sense to me than the suggestion provided by Pardini USA where they asked me to only bend the tab slightly upwards until the magazine fits. With respect to your diagram, did you file the top tab down and enlarge the opening on the side besides bending the side tab up? My SP is the older version for clarification.ruig wrote:I, personally, have never had any troubles but teammate of mine had troubles with both new magazines. It was not so easy to insert the magazine and the second problem - the magazine blocked the slide a little bit (caused abrasion between magazine and bottom of the slide). We were able to fix the problem with a file.beeser wrote:I just received a couple of magazines from Pardini...
GT45
Okay, so just a little update on my 45 with the sudden hard trigger pull. Indeed, I did just tweak the adjustment screw in front of the trigger. How much and what direction? I just don't know. I turned it one direction and the trigger felt way too light, so I moved it back. I haven't had the trigger pull problem in 3 matches plus a week of Camp Perry, so I'd have to call the issue resolved.
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
I like anti seize lubricating compound. Just make sure you don't use the zinc flake stuff made by Permatex, I don't recommend that stuff.pauln wrote:Hello ,PardiniUSA wrote:Hello everyone,
I want to make a general topic for everyone to use whenever one has any questions that need answering as well as any kind of concerns. Our aim is to ease the communication between us all so that we can better help and support fellow shooters.
So please, if you have any sort of questions, please do not hesitate to post on this topic and we will gladly respond back.
Best regards,
Pardini USA LLC
What lube does Pardini recomend putting on the K12 air cylinder connection threads? The manual is a bit vauge about this. thanks
Remember, air pressure doesn't touch the threads, so don't worry about using only silicone grease.
I've used silicone oil on the threads of my FWB700, and it just doesn't work. As soon as I used antisieze on the threads is went glass smooth..
Hi Vladimir! Hope to see you again at the AP JO's if I make it this year.
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
I've just received a used GT45. I've noticed the slide to frame fit is rather loose, unlike a tightly fitted accurized 1911. Is this normal (i.e. part of the design) ? I've also noticed that when I press down on the exposed part of the barrel hood, it drops down and unlock. Usually in an accurized 1911 this wouldn't happen.
Will all of this affect accuracy?
Thanks for your reply in advance.
Will all of this affect accuracy?
Thanks for your reply in advance.
-
- Posts: 794
- Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2010 9:22 pm
- Location: Cookeville, TN
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
It's normal,
Don't compare it to a 1911.
It's apples and oranges.
Don't compare it to a 1911.
It's apples and oranges.
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
Jake,
Thanks for chiming in. I'd figure that's the case, but want to verify this with Emil or other GT45 owners.
*big sigh of relief* lol
Best,
Bill
Thanks for chiming in. I'd figure that's the case, but want to verify this with Emil or other GT45 owners.
*big sigh of relief* lol
Best,
Bill
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
Id like to know if the SP1 (electronic trigger) is indeed not working or faulty, I have a haemmerli 205 for STP and NRA900, and if I am going to upgrade I will look for an electronic trigger one. I wonder if the SP1 functions or not, as lots of people wrote about the "double firing".
- markwarren
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 4:41 pm
- Location: Crewe, England, UK
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
Hi,
I'm not sure if I have put this question on here correctly or if I'm posting a reply - which it isn't !!
Anyway, I have recently purchased a second hand UK specification K22. Now and then when I squeeze the trigger, nothing happens, no release. It may shoot 20 times OK and then number 21 nothing. If I reset the trigger that seems to fix the issue so it looks as if the trigger doesn't set properly on occasions. If I am in the aim and nothing happens I can reach out and reset the trigger but on a couple of occasions the shot has released as I am reaching out! This is obviously not good for competition.
I know there is a trigger weight screw a the back which I have set to maximum weight - having it lighter seemed to stop the gun from being 'cocked'. I also know there is a screw on the side which is 'sear engagement' from memory. I am however not sure which of the 2 screws on the side is the one to adjust or even if adjusting this will sort the issue out.
Any suggestions please?
Many thanks
Mark
I'm not sure if I have put this question on here correctly or if I'm posting a reply - which it isn't !!
Anyway, I have recently purchased a second hand UK specification K22. Now and then when I squeeze the trigger, nothing happens, no release. It may shoot 20 times OK and then number 21 nothing. If I reset the trigger that seems to fix the issue so it looks as if the trigger doesn't set properly on occasions. If I am in the aim and nothing happens I can reach out and reset the trigger but on a couple of occasions the shot has released as I am reaching out! This is obviously not good for competition.
I know there is a trigger weight screw a the back which I have set to maximum weight - having it lighter seemed to stop the gun from being 'cocked'. I also know there is a screw on the side which is 'sear engagement' from memory. I am however not sure which of the 2 screws on the side is the one to adjust or even if adjusting this will sort the issue out.
Any suggestions please?
Many thanks
Mark
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
http://www.pardini.it/manuali/target%20manual%2007.pdf pages 13 and 17markwarren wrote: Anyway, I have recently purchased a second hand UK specification K22
... I am however not sure which of the 2 screws on the side is the one to adjust or even if adjusting this will sort the issue out.
You need more sear engagement.
Hope this helps
Re:
Hello,
I own a Pardini K10 and I have some questions about it.
For some time I've noticed that if the pistol is left open and cocked, after a minute or so, it discharges the compressed air quite quickly (not through the muzzle, though). I've noticed that it happens as well if I remove the air cylinder. A minute or so later is discharges the air quickly in this case through the treaded air cylinder connection.
During training or matches, I haven't noticed any air discharges (probably because the pistol is not left cocked and open for long).
The cylinders seem fine and hold pressure for weeks/months.
I think I will need to replace the o-rings, but should that solve the problem on itself, or is there more to it?
The second problem is low muzzle velocity.
Is this caused by the firing pin spring (K035)? Should I replace it as well as the o-rings?
Thank You for your time.
I own a Pardini K10 and I have some questions about it.
For some time I've noticed that if the pistol is left open and cocked, after a minute or so, it discharges the compressed air quite quickly (not through the muzzle, though). I've noticed that it happens as well if I remove the air cylinder. A minute or so later is discharges the air quickly in this case through the treaded air cylinder connection.
During training or matches, I haven't noticed any air discharges (probably because the pistol is not left cocked and open for long).
The cylinders seem fine and hold pressure for weeks/months.
I think I will need to replace the o-rings, but should that solve the problem on itself, or is there more to it?
The second problem is low muzzle velocity.
I originally measured the muzzle velocity and it was around 120 m/s, so I turned the screw that adjusts the compression of the firing pin spring (MP screw) clockwise and with it fully tightened I only got 150 m/s.PardiniUSA wrote:Gerard,
The only sure way to tell the exact velocity is to test it yourself as there are many variables that affect the velocity including barrel wear, weight of the pellet, size of the pellet, type of pellet used, temperature of air as it affects the volume of air. The factory recommended velocity, though, is 160 meters per second which is around 524 fps with 4.49 size pellets. The only guaranteed way to tell what velocity it is would be to test it with the chronograph.
Is this caused by the firing pin spring (K035)? Should I replace it as well as the o-rings?
Thank You for your time.
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
I'm not a Pardini technician so better to ask the company or someone skilled in maintaining them. Never had my K10 apart as the pistol performed well. But it does seem like you have a serious mechanical or seal problem if the pistol is discharging air by itself! Frightening. Perhaps a trigger adjustment is set too lightly in some way, in combination with worn out seal(s) or other problems.
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
Gerard,
The pistol does not discharge air through the muzzle. It seems to "lose" air sudently through the breech or the treaded connection if the air cylinder is not attached.
By the way, is there a easy way of removing the old seals (o-rings) without destroying them?
Thank You,
TQB
The pistol does not discharge air through the muzzle. It seems to "lose" air sudently through the breech or the treaded connection if the air cylinder is not attached.
By the way, is there a easy way of removing the old seals (o-rings) without destroying them?
Thank You,
TQB
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
Mine is less than 2 years old, and I keep it clean and lightly oiled at the breech and clean and lightly greased with white lithium (Campagnolo) grease at the threads, so I'm guessing it'll be a number of years before I face replacing my seals. When that time comes, I imagine I'll take the pistol apart, as I've done with my lesser, recreational pistols when they need service. Once dismantled the seals should be easy to remove, perhaps requiring a thin plastic pick or something like that.
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
By the way Gerard,
Is it worth trading up the K10 for the K12?
Is it worth trading up the K10 for the K12?
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
For me, with my stubbornly bad trigger technique, the very slight muzzle flip of the K10 is something I appreciate not being present in the K12. And the trigger itself also bothered me a little, where the trigger mechanism of the K12 is much more 'precise' feeling. The K12 is a slightly more forgiving pistol. That said, there's nothing at all wrong with the K10, it's an amazing pistol. I managed to injure my elbow shortly after starting use of the K12, so my scores actually went down, but my elbow is almost completely fine now so I should begin training in earnest this fall and get back to decent shape by spring. Then I'll find out whether there's a scoring advantage for me with the K12.tqb wrote: Is it worth trading up the K10 for the K12?
Re: Pardini Questions and Answers
I'm sure for some this will be a bit of a numpty question, but I understand that the Pardini SP1 magazine can be supplied (or modified) to a six round magazine for the competitions that require that capacity (i.e. SSAA Mandar).
Is this correct and, if so, can you advise what is involved in modifying the magazine or can a higher capacity magazine be purchased?
Is this correct and, if so, can you advise what is involved in modifying the magazine or can a higher capacity magazine be purchased?