Hammerlli 150 lubricant

[Irod]

The 150 of a friend had been in the safe for 20 years. A very dry safe. But now, the firing pin can´t fire the cartridges, just a little dent en the rim. We hope that is only dry lube, or old powder residues. That means clean the innerparts. But the manual says that the trigger mechanism can´t be touched, it said is cover with Molykote powder in the factory.

What modern and comercial lube can we use? Hammerlli do not exist any longer, and in my country don´t have competent gunsmths, only the manual

[FredB]

The gun almost certainly needs a new firing pin spring. I would try that first before doing anything with the trigger. If you eventually find it necessary to relubricate the trigger - very unlikely - you can probably get a Molycote substitute from Larry's Guns in Maine, U.S. Larry's will have the firing pin spring as well.

[rmca]

I would do a proper clean and lube before anything else.
Any decent gun oil would do. Once you do that and if the gun still doesn`t fire properly then you probably need a new firing pin spring.
Just for peace of mind check that the firing is not broken and if there isn`t something that impedes it from protuding.

Hope this helps

[Irod]

Ok, I´ll check that. txs!

[FredB]

Just to clarify my previous post. I said it almost certainly needs a new firing pin spring because the OP described the gun as being stored for 20 years, and chances are good that it was stored with the spring in the cocked position. That would permanently over-compress and weaken any spring. The light dent on the cartridge indicates that the trigger mechanism is fully functioning, but that the spring is weak or something is impeding the firing pin. Best bet, weak spring.

[6string]

All good points.
I'd remove the breech block and take it apart. Soak all the parts in a solvent such as mineral spirits or denatured alcohol. Re-assemble with a touch of thick viscosity lubricant where the sear latches into the striker (firing pin) notch.
Be careful of removing the one pin that holds the striker in place. Even in a weakened condition it will still have a good bit of tension on it. Personally, I'd place the whole beech block in a bench vise length-wise first, remove the pins, and then open the vise. That's also an easy way to reassemble. There shouldn't be any unpleasant surprises that way.

Best Wishes,
Jim

[brent375hh]

I am also guessing you spring is shot. I have been lubing my 150 with various moly or PTFE greases for years with satisfactory results, including the trigger sears. I also make sure to get plenty on the cocking ear that is engaged by the cocking lever. There have been two different firing pins and springs that were used on this pistol. One was a longer travel with weaker spring and one was a real strong spring with a short travel. I would imagine that you could take the spring you have to a gunsmith and see if some other coil spring would be close. Maybe the trigger return spring on a S&W revolver cut to length? When I am done with my last shot I only pull my lever far enough up to remove my empty, it will then go back down with force decocking itself. I have the long travel spring and firing pin in mine. Good luck.

[ScottEdvin]

Dust and gun powder remain inside the gun if no cleaning is done and there are many fault arise in the gun. I use Kleen-Bore cleaning kits, rods and brushes along with BreakFree-CLP cleaner, lubricant & preservative. And for bore cleaning i use BreakFree-Foaming Bore Cleaner which help to clean the bore easier.

[Irod]

The pistol it just need a cleaning. Now runs perfect. Thanks to all, as we say here, más vale tarde que nunca..