887 trigger
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963
First you have to have a trigger weight. 1.5 lbs is the minimum for the rules, but in reality you will probably only get it safely down to about 2 to 2-1/4. REMEMBER .... SAFETY ALWAYS TRUMPS anything else. The 888's and 887's are fairly LOW COST sporters ... not precision guns
I use a (quart) water bottle that has an attached coathanger rod with the end bent to reach the trigger. The rifle must be able to >>>LIFT<<< the weight. Trigger pull gauges are not authorized in the rules.
Fill the water bottle so that the total weight is (let's say for the sake of argument) 1.5 lbs. (Note: I use 2-1/4 lbs)
Now, there is a screw behind the trigger guard ... this is probably not long enough to get below 3 lbs, so you'll have to go to the hardware store and get a 6-32 screw that is about 1/4" longer (I forget what size I use ... I think 5/8"). I use a cap screw with a hex head.
NOW ..... with the rifle UNLOADED, and the cylinder OUT:
=====================================
NOW ..... with the rifle UNLOADED, and the cylinder OUT:
=====================================
NOW ..... with the rifle UNLOADED, and the cylinder OUT:
Take out the factory screw and install your new one (you didn't just by one did you? What about the rest of your team?)
(Rifle is unloaded and no cylinder, right???)
OK, cock the rifle and lift the weight.
Screw in the screw (slowly), until the hammer fires.
Back the screw off about 1/8 turn.
Cock and lift the weight again .... if the rifle "fires" when you cock it, you need to back the screw out some more .... "1/8 turn nudges"
Once you can lift the weight with the rifle cocked .... remove the weight, cock the rifle and (well, for want of a better term) "bump" the buttplate against a table top or the floor .... if it fires, you guessed it, back off screw some more .... you must also pass this "bump" test.
============
For what it's worth .... I never try and take the 888's and 887's below 2 pounds, in fact, I use 2-1/4 lbs as the weight. I do not feel the rifle is safe below that. That's just me .... with buffing and polishing the surfaces you can go lower, but you risk the "bump-fire" when you close the action, and if that happens in a match, the shot counts .... if an RO sees it happen, you'll probably have to remove the rifle from the line. If I'm the RO I'm also going to inform the coach that I'm retesting all of the team's triggers after the match.
After a few hundred shots, the trigger will be a bit higher again, so you can do this tweaking as you see fit.
Note also, if you get down to the hairy edge (these are NOT precision assemblies), even the difference between summer and winter temperatures can cause the gun to fail a bump test.
I usually have my triggers set to about 3 to 3-1/2 pounds for my youngest, beginning shooters, and then as I see them progress and make sure they are always safe, I'll lower it for them, by then they are probably shooting in the mid 400's in 3x20 shoots
So please ... always remember .... SAFETY FIRST
A good book to get from the CMP webstore is "Tom Johnson's Sporter Tips" ... it explains all these (legal) mods. It has pictures too
I use a (quart) water bottle that has an attached coathanger rod with the end bent to reach the trigger. The rifle must be able to >>>LIFT<<< the weight. Trigger pull gauges are not authorized in the rules.
Fill the water bottle so that the total weight is (let's say for the sake of argument) 1.5 lbs. (Note: I use 2-1/4 lbs)
Now, there is a screw behind the trigger guard ... this is probably not long enough to get below 3 lbs, so you'll have to go to the hardware store and get a 6-32 screw that is about 1/4" longer (I forget what size I use ... I think 5/8"). I use a cap screw with a hex head.
NOW ..... with the rifle UNLOADED, and the cylinder OUT:
=====================================
NOW ..... with the rifle UNLOADED, and the cylinder OUT:
=====================================
NOW ..... with the rifle UNLOADED, and the cylinder OUT:
Take out the factory screw and install your new one (you didn't just by one did you? What about the rest of your team?)
(Rifle is unloaded and no cylinder, right???)
OK, cock the rifle and lift the weight.
Screw in the screw (slowly), until the hammer fires.
Back the screw off about 1/8 turn.
Cock and lift the weight again .... if the rifle "fires" when you cock it, you need to back the screw out some more .... "1/8 turn nudges"
Once you can lift the weight with the rifle cocked .... remove the weight, cock the rifle and (well, for want of a better term) "bump" the buttplate against a table top or the floor .... if it fires, you guessed it, back off screw some more .... you must also pass this "bump" test.
============
For what it's worth .... I never try and take the 888's and 887's below 2 pounds, in fact, I use 2-1/4 lbs as the weight. I do not feel the rifle is safe below that. That's just me .... with buffing and polishing the surfaces you can go lower, but you risk the "bump-fire" when you close the action, and if that happens in a match, the shot counts .... if an RO sees it happen, you'll probably have to remove the rifle from the line. If I'm the RO I'm also going to inform the coach that I'm retesting all of the team's triggers after the match.
After a few hundred shots, the trigger will be a bit higher again, so you can do this tweaking as you see fit.
Note also, if you get down to the hairy edge (these are NOT precision assemblies), even the difference between summer and winter temperatures can cause the gun to fail a bump test.
I usually have my triggers set to about 3 to 3-1/2 pounds for my youngest, beginning shooters, and then as I see them progress and make sure they are always safe, I'll lower it for them, by then they are probably shooting in the mid 400's in 3x20 shoots
So please ... always remember .... SAFETY FIRST
A good book to get from the CMP webstore is "Tom Johnson's Sporter Tips" ... it explains all these (legal) mods. It has pictures too