Stan,
The second stage of the Pardini is artificial, and created by a ball spring plunger (screw cs, with internal weight adjustment ps). It does nothing but provide the second stage resistance. The first stage travel (cp) adjusts the total sear travel, actually the first stage + second stage. You can eliminate the second stage, but you need some sear travel for the gun to be safe.
When I set mine up, I first adjust cp to get the overall travel I want (mine also had too much travel for me to comfortably take up), then I adjust cs to get a very short second stage. I've also set the first stage weight pretty light, so I have no problem taking up the first stage quickly when I settle on the target.
I've seen a lot of people turn down the first stage to almost nothing, but I think this is a dangerous practice. if you want a crisp trigger I think you should keep some 1st stage travel and use the second stage adjustment to get the trigger break you want. You can lighten up the 1st stage, and increase the weight of the 2nd stage to make it easier to index.
There's a lot of possibilities, the only thing I wouldn't try is a very short sear travel (for safety). You might want to give Don Nygord a call, he's a real nice guy to talk to.
Good Luck,
Steve.
Pardini SP/HP - CS or CP screw?
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Roll?
I guess my impression is that a roll or crisp trigger had to do with the angles and radii of the various mating surfaces such as the sear. Other than making adjustments to the trigger weight, I see my friendly local gunsmith. I am fortunate here in VA to have a gunsmith that owns and shoots a Pardini SP
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Guest
roll vs. crisp
From the discussion I have had, a crisp trigger refers to one that you apply pressure to and it breaks at a very precise pressure, and at a very precise location. Pretravel and/or over travel could be long or short.
The roll trigger is one where the exact location and force needed to fire the weapon is not as precise. One method to do this would be to include slight radii on certain mating surfaces. Again, the pretravel and/or after travel could be long or short.
The roll trigger is one where the exact location and force needed to fire the weapon is not as precise. One method to do this would be to include slight radii on certain mating surfaces. Again, the pretravel and/or after travel could be long or short.
Boy that is the same quandry I am in---I love the trigger on my HP with short first stage and beautiful let-off. My SP has an "awful" long take-up on first stage---(which I would like to shorten)----however, I am TOO CHEEKEN to touch the gun now after all that has been said above---as I don't know whether to pee or go blind. And there isn't a (pistol)gunsmith on Long Island. I guess the only thing is to pack it up and FEDEx it to Don Nygord when he gets back from vacation and let him do it. Truer words were never spoken regarding the Pardini manual---being able to read Italian---it's just as confusing. BTW I dislike slotted screws on fine firearms---I think slotted adjustment screws on a good pistol is an atrocity----that's the main reason I got rid of the Unique DES96u. ----Gutless on Long Island
Stan,Stan Pace wrote: ...
Finally, I currently have both pistols set up with the sear fully engaged (as a starting point), but I would like to shorten the trigger pull by adjusting screw CP. My question is how close to the edge is too close? Is there a distance or percentage of adjustment that seems to be safe? I see comments about concerns over excessive load on the sear, but I am more concerned about functional reliability.
I am most interested in shortening the pull on the SP. The HP seems to be fine with full engagement. My guess is the heavier trigger weight makes the longer pull feel more tolerable.
I've seen at least one SP set up with virtually no 1st stage travel at all. Although I wouldn't set mine up this way, this particular gun didn't have any problems with doubling or malfunctions (to my knowledge). I would think if you had a noticable amount of 1st stage travel (such that you would consider it a roll trigger) you would probably be ok.
I'd give Mr. Nygord a call, he's a real nice guy and could probably let you know how short you could go over the phone.
I've wondered if I could get 2 pounds on the 1st stage alone. I'm still working up the nerve to remove the 2nd stage and try a real single stage trigger.
Steve (the first one, above).
Hey Bob,
If all you want to do is shorten the first stage, it's really not that bad. The real trick is to just turn the screws a little bit and try it out.
Try turning cp clockwise 1/4 turn and dryfire, and you'll quickly see the result. When you shorten the 1st stage with the cp screw, You'll get less 1st stage travel and more takeup slack travel. When you have the 1st stage length you want (and you'll see the increased slack travel), just adjust pg to reduce the slack to as much or as little as you want. Just remember that you need a little slack remaining to allow the trigger to reset.
I stared at the trigger diagram for a week before I tried anything but if you can picture how the mechanism works in your head, then the screw descriptions start to make sense.
I usually leave the wrench in the screw untill I'm done with it, so I can put it back where it was if I don't like the result.
Good luck,
Steve
If all you want to do is shorten the first stage, it's really not that bad. The real trick is to just turn the screws a little bit and try it out.
Try turning cp clockwise 1/4 turn and dryfire, and you'll quickly see the result. When you shorten the 1st stage with the cp screw, You'll get less 1st stage travel and more takeup slack travel. When you have the 1st stage length you want (and you'll see the increased slack travel), just adjust pg to reduce the slack to as much or as little as you want. Just remember that you need a little slack remaining to allow the trigger to reset.
I stared at the trigger diagram for a week before I tried anything but if you can picture how the mechanism works in your head, then the screw descriptions start to make sense.
I usually leave the wrench in the screw untill I'm done with it, so I can put it back where it was if I don't like the result.
Good luck,
Steve
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F. Paul in Denver
I've spent several hours over many days trying to shorten up the first stage on my SP. I was finally successful when I realized I had to make EXTREMELY fine adjustments to the various screws to find that sweet spot.
By the way, I read Italian very well. IMO the manual is still "quasi inutile" - (almost useless).
Although, anytime I think Pardini's manual is difficult, I just open my TOZ manual for a real lesson in "ignoranza"
F. Paul in Denver
By the way, I read Italian very well. IMO the manual is still "quasi inutile" - (almost useless).
Although, anytime I think Pardini's manual is difficult, I just open my TOZ manual for a real lesson in "ignoranza"
F. Paul in Denver
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F. Paul in Denver
Stan and group:
The SP when first delivered was adjusted perfectly - a short but discernible 1st stage followed by a light but distinctive\crisp second stage let off.
After about 6 months, I decided to experiment by adjusting 1st and 2nd stage weights, going to single stage etc etc.
After much fiddling, I decided I liked the way it was adjusted when first shipped and wanted to get it readjusted to that configuration. This is where it got fun (not).
When I tried to adjust everything back to the way it was by using my notes (I took better notes than I do when conducting a jury trial), I found I just couldnt find the right combination to put me back to square one.
After many hours/days I was able to get it close but not quite. Then I just
started making EXTREMELY fine adjustments to the outer duplex screw (PS) and finally got it to produce that short first stage travel which ends very distinctly at the beginning of the second stage.
As presently configured, I estimate that the first stage takes up somewhere between 1.5 to 1.75 lbs of the total 2.5 lbs necessary to fire the gun.
So here's the best way I can describe it from memory:
Use the outer duplex screw (PS)to get some (any amount should do) of first stage travel.
Then use the interior screw (CS hex screw) to get the total trigger weight where you want it.
Then go back to the PS duplex screw and start making very fine adjustments until the first stage travel stops precisely where you want it.
Check trigger weight again and make any final weight adjustments to CS screw.
NOTE:
I have had no luck in getting PP screw to do anything to the first stage weight.
I have never messed with the CP or PG screws.
Dont get frustrated and give up - the trigger you want is there. You just
gotta keep fishing for it.
Paul
The SP when first delivered was adjusted perfectly - a short but discernible 1st stage followed by a light but distinctive\crisp second stage let off.
After about 6 months, I decided to experiment by adjusting 1st and 2nd stage weights, going to single stage etc etc.
After much fiddling, I decided I liked the way it was adjusted when first shipped and wanted to get it readjusted to that configuration. This is where it got fun (not).
When I tried to adjust everything back to the way it was by using my notes (I took better notes than I do when conducting a jury trial), I found I just couldnt find the right combination to put me back to square one.
After many hours/days I was able to get it close but not quite. Then I just
started making EXTREMELY fine adjustments to the outer duplex screw (PS) and finally got it to produce that short first stage travel which ends very distinctly at the beginning of the second stage.
As presently configured, I estimate that the first stage takes up somewhere between 1.5 to 1.75 lbs of the total 2.5 lbs necessary to fire the gun.
So here's the best way I can describe it from memory:
Use the outer duplex screw (PS)to get some (any amount should do) of first stage travel.
Then use the interior screw (CS hex screw) to get the total trigger weight where you want it.
Then go back to the PS duplex screw and start making very fine adjustments until the first stage travel stops precisely where you want it.
Check trigger weight again and make any final weight adjustments to CS screw.
NOTE:
I have had no luck in getting PP screw to do anything to the first stage weight.
I have never messed with the CP or PG screws.
Dont get frustrated and give up - the trigger you want is there. You just
gotta keep fishing for it.
Paul