TargetTalk

I reload Starline brass for .32SWL 98 gain .314" dia. HBWC pills on my Dillon RL550B press using Dillon dies.

The problem I have is that the expander tip of the through die powder funnel measures .311". I tried replacing it with the PhotoEscape expander (from Uniquetek) which measures .314' but I have problems with adjusting it, it does not work for me with the cowl fitted (dumps powder even when no case is in the station) and the surface of the expander is not polished smooth. If I were to smooth it I'd probably end up with a size similar to the Dillon.

I have found a local (Sydney) hard chroming company that is willing to hard chrome the tip to bring it up to .314" (or .3145") for a relatively modest sum.

Has anyone done something similar and what are people's views on whether this will work OK. I am just a little concerned about whether the plating will hold up under the rigours of expanding the cases. I try to avoid full-length resizing so the expanding is not that difficult. Resizing might lead me down the track of having to lap out the carbide resizing die, which David M has talked about here previously.

All comments welcomed.

Bob

Greetings,

I load with a Star; but, the following process should transfer to a Dillon device.

I size my cases based on the diameter of a loaded round. Example, a 0.314" bullet seated in a Lapua case measures 0.3345"-0.3350". So, I size all my brass to 0.334" prior to loading.

My expander is 0.308" and all it does is flare the case mouth. I suspect your Dillon device will still dispense powder and flare the case? If yes, an additional advantage is the removal of the expander plug "jiggling" the press when it is dragged full contact with the brass case resulting in a more uniform powder charge.

Moving to the seating operation, the bullet should be inserted with thumb pressure about half way thus ensuring alignment. Cycling the press completes the seating.

StarLine brass is thicker walled so you would probably need to size the brass to 0.336"-0.337".

Brass springs back about 0.002" diameter. Here, to get cases sized to 0.337" your Carbide sizing dies needs to measure 0.335".

I have a box full of sizing dies of various diameters to ensure the correct tool for the bullet being loaded.

Again, I do not use Dillon devices and my analysis may be totally corrupt.

Cheers,

Dave

So, BobGee, the message is "Get a Star" !

Dave's advice is one of the best posts on reloading straight walled cases that I've read in a long time.
I don't load for 32 S&W (yet), but load cast bullet loads for all the conventional revolver cartridges. Finding the right sizing die is the first step, and it is critical. I have lapped steel sizing dies to get them right.
Most straight wall sizing dies are carbide these days. Manufacturers seem to always make them small, favoring the tastes of shooters who use jacketed bullets, load to magnum velocities, etc.
The wild variations in chamber dimensions for the little 32 just make the problem more difficult.
No, you don't need a Star, as nice as they are. However, when they were being made, you could specify the exact size carbide die for your choice of bullet.
You can buy adjustable lapping tools. I'm not sure what lapping compound would be best for carbide (aluminum oxide, silicon oxide) but it's likely possible to open up a .32 die a couple thousandths.
This is far more preferable to squeezing down the case too far, then opening it up with expander. The possibility is that the tip of the expander won't go to the depth of your seated bullet before the flare on you case mouth gets excessive.
The result is a swaged bullet base and inferior accuracy.

I have used 1200 grit aluminiumoxide paper on my carbide dies with very good results.
Easy job, though a little time consuming.

Best answers relating to loading.32 s&wl I have read.

Greetings,

I have opened up several Carbide sizing dies to specific applications.

I use a Diamond brush hone.

http://www.brushresearch.com

BC9M2500CD BC 9MM 2500C MESH DIAMOND

I mount the die in my lathe and dial in the Carbide ring true.

The brush gets mounted in a chuck in my tail stock.

Keep the brush wet with honing fluid. Do not flood it. If fluid is dripping off you are using too much.

Push the tail stock in and out fairly quick. About 2 seconds to go through and 2 seconds return.

The above brush is approximately 800 grit so honing goes slow.

I do not recall the amount removed; but, I generally cycle the operation 20 times and measure.

To do a lot of dies, buy the 180 grit to rough withing 0.001" and finish with the 800 grit.

There are enough sizes to cover all the loading dies we use.

Make sure the brush will clear the end of the die. i.e. small hole for decapping rod.

The brushes are not true hones. They will follow the profile of the Carbide ring. So, if the ring is not round when you start it will be not round when you finish. The brush does follow the radius/taper entry rather well. You are only removing 0.002"-0.003" material on diameter.

Cheers,

Dave