TargetTalk

So I got in a nice used Hammerli FP60 and the top right hand grip wing was broke in shipping. Going to file Fedex claim on it am wondering how to fix this if I get screwed. I've been a fairly decent wood worker for 40+yrs and this is a really clean pretty break. Couldn't ask for a better break. Am wondering if this has happened before ( seems like it should have, kinda fragile spot) and how other people handled it. Don't know if I should used a fast epoxy or gorilla cryo glue for wood. Fixed a guys chair last month, and did a good job and strengthened joint w/dowels. Thinking after I glue it and sets a day or two line it up on the drill press and two small dowels epoxied in might do the trick.

thanks,
Jay

Get proper wood glue such as Titebond. When glued properly, wood won't break at the glued spot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-g3efGa3sI (not affiliated, but I really like the channel)

I had the exact same break. I used two steel dowels, but I had the use some smaller than the holes I drilled to get it to line up. It's hard to drill them in perfect alignment in both parts. I used Acraglass bedding gel. You can see a faint hairline where it broke, but it has been solid as a rock for 26 years.

I am sure a real woodworker can offer up a better solution for adhesives, but if you ever got glass bedding where you don't want it, you learn how strong it is.

I've used Loctite Superglue from market shelf and glued all my broken grips with success with it.

Clean break.
No oil or dirt contamination.
Parts should fit together tightly without requiring force.

Best bet is an alphatic resin wood glue, such as Titebond.


Do a dry run first with no glue. You can clamp it or simply press the parts together holding with strong hand pressure for 60 seconds.
Often, if the wood fibers can be lined up exactly you're better off without clamps. Set it aside undisturbed for 24 hrs. Don't use too much glue! Don't be tempted to mess with the glue squeeze-out. When it's cured, you can remove any excess glue with either a rag damped with hot water or a sharp razor blade.
You should get an invisible repair that is as strong or stronger than the wood.
If you wanted to, you could give the grip a rubdown with an oil finish.

Don't bother with dowels.
Don't bother with epoxy.
Both will make an ugly, amateur looking repair.

Very liquid instant superglue with high run-in, such as Alteco. Be careful, not all superglues are suitable, there are big differences between manufacturers and brands. I always carry one tuba with me, for competitions and training.

"I've been a fairly decent wood worker for 40+yrs"

And you don't have a bottle of Elmer's? WTF?

I'm just going to weight in on the Tightbond bandwagon... I've used it enough to know if you have a good tight joint before applying the glue it will never break again at the bond location. (i.e. The bond will be stronger than the base wood.)

My contribution is obviously the easy way out, but if your dealings with FedEx give any result and you find yourself awarded with a compensation, you could think of buying an made-almost-to-measure Rink grip.

6string wrote: ↑Sat Jun 05, 2021 6:27 am Clean break.
No oil or dirt contamination.
Parts should fit together tightly without requiring force.

Best bet is an alphatic resin wood glue, such as Titebond.


Do a dry run first with no glue. You can clamp it or simply press the parts together holding with strong hand pressure for 60 seconds.
Often, if the wood fibers can be lined up exactly you're better off without clamps. Set it aside undisturbed for 24 hrs. Don't use too much glue! Don't be tempted to mess with the glue squeeze-out. When it's cured, you can remove any excess glue with either a rag damped with hot water or a sharp razor blade.
You should get an invisible repair that is as strong or stronger than the wood.
If you wanted to, you could give the grip a rubdown with an oil finish.

Don't bother with dowels.
Don't bother with epoxy.
Both will make an ugly, amateur looking repair.

+1

Don't overthink it...

Once adhesive is applied, and there are plenty of appropriate wood-specific adhesives out there, just hold the parts in place with some elastic bands during the 24hour curing period. That will be enough clamping force. Should be easy with that grip. Won’t break there again - as long as you don’t ship it anywhere by FedEx!

Bob

Take it to a guitar shop and have a Luthier do it. They are repairing broken guitar headstocks and necks all the times. They will pin and glue it. They do it so often they are in good practice

Dang I like that one. I was thinking about layering some fiberglass cloth or carbon fiber on it after I get it done. Ought to be bullet proof after that. Can't help but think it is a common problem seeing thats a fragile area of the grip. thanks for all the answers. Will post back after I hear from fed ex.

My ugly, but strong, fix is shown as the non recommended way for the fix. No matter how you slice it, it can't be worse than this.

I don't know about FedEx, but UPS would tell you that if a a 300 pound man can't stand on it, or survive a 5 foot fall, it wasn't properly packaged.

My standard repair for Walnut grips is with Superglue.
As a model aeroplane builder I have used it for years, it is available in
Super thin, Medium and Thick (gap filling).
(Also foam safe but not needed.)

The two brands I use are ZAP CA or Bob Smith Industries Insta-Cure CA Glue,
both are sold in small and large bottles in hobby shops.

If it is a clean break that goes back together well and no oil,
then use the Medium (a little more cure time ), coat and press
back together and hold firm but not tight 5-10 mins.

To use dowels I use bamboo skewers (about 3mm dia) the bamboo
will allow a super thin CA to wick well into the wood.
Any open cracks or gaps left, use walnut dust off the belt sander
as a filler and dry rub the dust into the crack (slightly over fill).
Then soak in Super Thin CA, it is both strong and hard, can be drilled,
snaded and tapped.

If it is a old grip clean well with acetone (both thinner and solvent for CA).

https://www.zapglue.com/ca

brent375hh wrote: ↑Mon Jun 07, 2021 11:53 am I don't know about FedEx, but UPS would tell you that if a a 300 pound man can't stand on it, or survive a 5 foot fall, it wasn't properly packaged.

Wooh... By german post services the slogan is: If a 400 pound man can´t stand on it, it simply wasn´t properly packaged. Btw, had a FWB wood rifle stock broken during postage many years ago.