TargetTalk

Hi, I am new to this fine forum today and this is my first post!

I have a Baikal IZH-MP-46M air pistol which I love. It is my best air gun by far!

It is about 9 or 10 years old but it hasn't been fired very much, probably only 200 or 300 rounds. I have never had it apart and do not oil it too much and I only use ATF [auto transmission fluid] the few times I did.

This morning when I tried to fire it, I noticed a small leaking sound as the handle was pushed back into position. I loaded it and pressed down the breech cover, aimed and squeezed the trigger, there was no power, only a thin "click".

I think that since the leak was heard before the pistol was fully cocked, the leak is most probably is from the piston cup. I have the seal kit that came with the gun so of course I will change all of the seals.

Here is my problem. I have never taken the pistol apart and I am worried about not getting it back correctly or worse yet, doing damage to my favorite pistol!

I also have read stories that the piston cup is almost impossible to get on and some people have to heat it or soak it first. I have a Red Dot sight on it.

What can I find out about all of this before I start to re-seal this pistol? Can someone who has done this repair before tell me in easy baby steps, one at a time, what has to be done?

I will really appreciate any help and ideas you have to get me through this!

Thank you in advance, regards, gkenny.

Thank you, but for some reason I cannot open your post.

Is there some other way for me to see your response?

Sorry for my lack of the proper equipment.

Regards, gkenny.

Can anyone else help me with the question of how to re-seal my Baikal MP-46M pistol?

There was one good reply indicating a slide show on how to do it with some beautiful and very professional still photos, but I can only receive the still photos with no sealing information or slide show.

A few years ago there was a very good and knowledgable conversation between Lenny and Seamaster, but they have not replied to my request for help.

Is there anything else possible to help me get my beautiful pistol back into shooting condition instead of a beautiful paperweight?

I will really appreciate any help offered, I am desperate!

Thank you and regards, gkenny.

Why don't you pull cocking lever all the way forward, that would expose part of the piston seal.

Drop a few drops of "air gun sauce" (or synthetic motor oil) to that piston seal. See if that works before breaking all down for all seal changes.

Thank you very much for responding, seamaster, I am very happy that you have given me hope to get my best air gun back to normal!

First, when a little ATF is put onto the seal, as you have suggested, the first few shots are at about 1/2 power, but much better than before without your suggestion. It is far from full power and slowly diminishes with each shot until just a 'click' is heard from the trigger.

I am a VERY senior citizen, 80 years old, but I have a little experience in repairing mechanical things, and I have re-sealed many of my other air guns, but none of them as complicated as this one! That is why I need the help requested.

I look forward to any help that you can offer, seamster! Thanks again for responding.

Regards, gkenny.

There are essentially two seals. The large piston seal that you remove from front, and a small inner seal you go from back.

Do the front piston seal repair, that should be straight forward. Putting it back might be a challenge, but very doable.

The inner seal, I will say forget it. Done it, but cursed the mothers of those Russian gunmakers many times in the process. So I would recommend not doing it.

But do attempt to lubricate those seals again. Pull front lever up, lubricate the partial exposed piston seal.

Lubricate the small inner seal from the breech. Pull cocking breech lever up, there should be a small hole on breech. Put a small wire in, then drop a few lubricant in. Point pistol DOWNWARD to get lubricant flowing forward into that inner seal.

I don’t have the diagram to do the front piston seal.

GWhite, can you help our friend out with your wonderful diagrams?

Here's the best diagram I have of the firing seal:
I'd strongly recommend stopping using ATF for a lubricant. Use air tool oil.

Thank you very much Gwhite, that is an excellent diagram and will be very helpful for my project!

I have used ATF for years what is wrong with it and where do I get Air Oil?

Thank you again, regards, gkenny.

I have no idea what additives might be in ATF, and I bet the Russians' never anticipated its use with the seals in the IZH. It may be fine, but why risk it?

Air tool oil can be bought at many hardware & home stores. I got a small bottle of Bosch brand from Home Depot for ~$5. It's what the IZH repair folks recommended to me.

Thank you Gwhite, I agree 100% and tomorrow I will get to Home Depot and get a bottle!

My next step is taking the gun apart, although I am not sure exactly what to do, if you have any basic suggestions I will appreciate any help from you or seamaster.

Thanks again for staying with me on this, it is very important to me to get this gun back in shape.

Regards, gkenny.

Hi seamaster, As you suggested, I re-oiled the piston seal and oiled the breech seal through the little hole. There is a little improvement but only about 10% or 20%. It seems you put me on the right track, its getting better!

I appreciate you sticking with me on this, I really want to get my gun back in shape!

What should I do next do you have any suggestions on how to correctly take this apart to get to the piston seal?

Thanks again for any help you can offer.

regards, gkenny.

gkenny wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:15 pm Thank you Gwhite, I agree 100% and tomorrow I will get to Home Depot and get a bottle!

My next step is taking the gun apart, although I am not sure exactly what to do, if you have any basic suggestions I will appreciate any help from you or seamaster.

Thanks again for staying with me on this, it is very important to me to get this gun back in shape.

Regards, gkenny.

Thank you GWhite, I was unable to find the Bosch brand of Air Tool Oil, are other brands just as good?

Thank you, regards, gkenny.

It should all be pretty much equivalent. Bosch is just the brand I found in a nice small bottle. 4 ounces will last a life time.

Here is a cheap option: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-4-oz ... /205847778

Thank you GWhite, I have it! It is made by Kobalt, 8 ounces for $ 4.68.

Regards, gkenny.

seamaster wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 10:50 pm There are essentially two seals. The large piston seal that you remove from front, and a small inner seal you go from back.

Do the front piston seal repair, that should be straight forward. Putting it back might be a challenge, but very doable.

The inner seal, I will say forget it. Done it, but cursed the mothers of those Russian gunmakers many times in the process. So I would recommend not doing it.

But do attempt to lubricate those seals again. Pull front lever up, lubricate the partial exposed piston seal.

Lubricate the small inner seal from the breech. Pull cocking breech lever up, there should be a small hole on breech. Put a small wire in, then drop a few lubricant in. Point pistol DOWNWARD to get lubricant flowing forward into that inner seal.

I don’t have the diagram to do the front piston seal.

GWhite, can you help our friend out with your wonderful diagrams?

Thank you seamaster, The diagram from GWhite will be very helpful!

My next step is to disasseble my pistol...can you give me any pointers, I don't even know where to start?

Thank you, regards, gkenny.

Most of it common sense, common observation.
Just follow the link for instruction to pull things apart.
I would pay attention to lever attachment direction, but again just common sense, if it doesn’t look right, just redo it.

Pencil /paper to draw notes of what you took off, just reverse order for assemble.

There should be no parts left over :)

Hi Kenny,

Also, it is helpful, if you have a smart phone, to take photos at each stage before you disassemble to next stage. Then you have a record of what it should look like if you forget where bits go. We have a bunch of these pistols at our Club and they don’t look too complicated to me to take apart. I guess that there is the air charge part (crank, etc.) and triggering part. The latter might be a bit more complicated. I think your problem lies with the main piston. If you have a spare, you're probably all set

Bob (septuagenarian)

BobGee wrote: ↑Tue Feb 18, 2020 6:28 am Hi Kenny,

Also, it is helpful, if you have a smart phone, to take photos at each stage before you disassemble to next stage. Then you have a record of what it should look like if you forget where bits go. We have a bunch of these pistols at our Club and they don’t look too complicated to me to take apart. I guess that there is the air charge part (crank, etc.) and triggering part. The latter might be a bit more complicated. I think your problem lies with the main piston. If you have a spare, you're probably all set

Bob (septuagenarian)

Thank you Bob, that is a good suggestion and I will do it just as you say!

Regards, gkenny.