TargetTalk

Can anyone explain the proper procedure for swapping it the rear sight blade on a Hammerli 208 International. The best I’ve been able to find is an exploded diagram which is of little use, and a thread here with only a partial answer. In the picture here you can see there is a flush-inserted pin in the 8 O’clock position that appears to retain the edge of the adjustment screw. The thread I found from years ago indicates that pin needs to be removed in order to remove the blade. It offers no explanation as to how to remove either though. The other size does not provide access to punch the pin out. Can anyone explain the procedure, or do I need a special tool?

Here is the opposite side. The only access it seems is to what appears to be the other end of the screw, but not the pin(?).

Have you tried simply unscrewing (turning CW) the rear sight windage adjustment screw? On every rear sight I've disassembled in a similar configuration, all that pin does is serve to engage the detents - which prevents the screw from turning freely - and provide click adjustments. Care should be taken since that pin is likely spring loaded and the pin or spring could be lost upon removal of the screw. A cleaver approach to perform such a disassembly is to perform the work in a two gallon clear zip lock bag - which tends to retain any parts. Once that screw is removed, the rear sight blade should slide out from its recess - if not then carefully replace all the parts in the order removed.

10M_Stan wrote:Have you tried simply unscrewing (turning CW) the rear sight windage adjustment screw? On every rear sight I've disassembled in a similar configuration, all that pin does is serve to engage the detents - which prevents the screw from turning freely - and provide click adjustments. Care should be taken since that pin is likely spring loaded and the pin or spring could be lost upon removal of the screw. A cleaver approach to perform such a disassembly is to perform the work in a two gallon clear zip lock bag - which tends to retain any parts. Once that screw is removed, the rear sight blade should slide out from its recess - if not then carefully replace all the parts in the order removed.

Thank you, Stan. I have not tried that, but it’s the only suggestion I’ve had so far. I reached out to Larry as well for some instruction. That’s a great trick of using a zip lock bag to retain flyaways. I guess I just want to be sure I’m able to put it all back together correctly as well. I recall having a hell of a time trying to set a missing spring beneath my Model 41 sight (elevation adjustment) - I suspect there must have been some technique I was missing. I eventually got it seated but it was a frustrating process - that bag trick would have come in handy! Thanks for taking the time to respond. If I don’t hear back from Larry in a couple of days I’ll give it a try. Either way, I’ll post the results here.

A big thank you to Leon (his user name) who took the time to PM me and lay down a detailed explanation of how to change the sight blade. With this lengthy description and his encouragement, it took about ten minutes to do the task. What a generous community this has been!



I hope he doesn’t mind my sharing his step-by-step instructions in case anyone else searches out this information. I’ll add a couple of my own notes at the end:

“Step 1 - turn the rear sight elevation screw counter-clockwise until it comes out. If you are worried about parts flying off, don't , they normally don't - but cover everything in a zip lock bag if you are.

The elevation part of the rear sight is now loose

Step 2 - Using a small punch, knock out pin (1203170) from the underside of the sight. It is a tapered pin hence the direction - from bottom to top. You will need to put the rear sight on a small block of wood to do so. I have changed a few of these so don't normally remove the entire rear sight before doing so.
As a first-timer, it may be easier for you if you do. Just unscrew the big screw (1200020) and the entire assembly slides off.
Step 3 - Now turn the windage screw counter-clockwise until it comes out. You can now remove the rear-sight blade and replace it with a new one. Again, nothing is going to fly-out but, if you are worried, keep it covered in a zip-lock bag.

Re-assembly - essentially in reverse order.
Step 4 - Insert new rear-sight blade then screw the windage screw back in.

Step 5 - Whilst keeping some tension on the windage screw ( keeping the rear-sight blade in position ), re-insert pin 1203170 from the top. The reason why you need to keep some tension on the windage screw and the blade in position is that this pin needs to engage with a groove in the windage screw. This stops the rear-sight blade coming loose in case you adjust the screw too much.

Step 5 - Elevation screw - re-insert and screw into place. Special Note - Both the elevation and windage screws have little plungers which makes a clicking noise when you turn the screws. You may have to gently prod them in place with a small punch when re-assembling.

Step 6 - Put the sight back on the gun and tighten screw 1200020.

It may be may be slightly daunting the first time but it's not hard. Should take you about 3-5 mins from start to finish.“

My notes: in removing the elevation screw, indeed there is nothing that will come flying off, but there is a spring and a female receiver for the screw that will be able to slide rearward and off once the screw is removed. You should either tape those securely down in place to do your work, or take note of how they are installed and remove them to set aside to reinstall when you are done. The only other stalls I came up against was in screwing in the new blade take note that there is a slant to the top surfaces meaning there are two ways to install it. On mine the slanted surfaces align with the sight body top when the number on the blade (4.0 in the case of mine) faces forward. Also a bit tricky is realigning and inserting the unthreaded pin section at the end of the screw into the axis receiver hole in the opposite (from screw head) side of the sight body. This was just a matter of patience, a few gentle taps with a plastic hammer. Otherwise it all seems to have come together well and the two adjustments seem to function as they should. Thanks again to Leon!

Did William say that?

I would like to add a comment to step 1 of the instructions posted by @JAXONTARGET

WARNING - when removing the elevation screw there is a very tiny spring loaded detent embedded into the side of the elevation screw. It absolutely will go airborne. This detent provides the "click" adjustability feeling for elevation adjustments.

Elevation screw 1203131
detent 1305141
spring 1305150

I know because I lost the damn detent but was able to order a replacement. Reinstalling it is a major exercise in patience.