TargetTalk

For a new CM162M pistol

what is the best lubricant brand and maintenance cycle for it? the user manual has zero info

thank you in advance!

I’ll chime in... I suppose your pistol is the mechanical version. All match pcp airpistols are pretty much maintenance free and only require very little lubrication. Being a new gun, you should first clean the bore with some cotton patches.

Use a small dab of Superlube grease or Feinwerkbau “special grease” on the bolt o-ring and on the threads of the air cylinders. Clean and regrease when necessary, DO NOT over lube.

Wipe down the barrel and metal parts with an oily rag after each trip to the range. (I use CorrosionX, but would recommend Ballistol). The bore does not need to be cleaned unless if you’re not going to use your pistol for an extended period of time. I also throw in a silica gel desiccant packet in my case for peace of mind.

Just wanted to pop in with a question on cleaning the barrel then. You're recommending not to mess with the barrel cleaning at all if it is fired regularly?

If going to be stored for awhile, perhaps a cleaning pellet with a dab of oil, then several dry pellets before firing?

That all sound ok?

Thanks!

Joe58 wrote:Just wanted to pop in with a question on cleaning the barrel then. You're recommending not to mess with the barrel cleaning at all if it is fired regularly?

Yup, don’t mess with the BORE when your gun is fired regularly, unless accuracy suffers.

Joe58 wrote:If going to be stored for awhile, perhaps a cleaning pellet with a dab of oil, then several dry pellets before firing? That all sound ok? Thanks!

Yes, that would do. However, I like to use a cotton patch instead of a cleaning pellet...

kevinweiho wrote:

Joe58 wrote:Just wanted to pop in with a question on cleaning the barrel then. You're recommending not to mess with the barrel cleaning at all if it is fired regularly?

Yes, that would do. However, I like to use a cotton patch instead of a cleaning pellet...

*Apologies if I'm hijacking the thread. I just felt the info is relevant to the original question.

I've also heard that one should not use a standard cleaning rod due to air gun barrels being a bit "softer" as compared to power burners.

So a wooden dowel or maybe one of those kind using weed whacker string then?

Joe58 wrote:I've also heard that one should not use a standard cleaning rod due to air gun barrels being a bit "softer" as compared to power burners. So a wooden dowel or maybe one of those kind using weed whacker string then?

Yes, the steel used in airgun barrels is softer than the powder burners. You can go the cheapo route and use a weed whacker line to pull the patch from breech to muzzle, but you must be careful not to damage the crown.

I currently use an 18” Lewis crown saver pull thru for my air pistols.

SILICONE OIL ONLY. Never use petroleum-based oils as these have solvents which will immediately degrade the seals.

Super-Lube: Silicone Oil (100cst - "centistokes" viscosity), part#56104. Readily available for under $10.

Silicone Oil being "Poly-Dimethyl-Siloxane" for the techie's out there. Basically food-grade liquid polymerized silicone oil. Definitely doesn't stink like synthetic petroleum-based oil.

I'd recommend VERY SPARINGLY use on a felt-pellet (VFG-Quick Cleaning Pellets, part#66793). And we're talking oil on the felt pellet - Once in a Blue Moon. With frequent shooting, running dry felt pellets, you should be "Good-to-Go!".

Air pistol barrels generally won't lead-up, like firearms. Melting point of lead being 621.5f, there's not enough barrel friction at 500feet/second to smear the lead.

External oil frequently is okay. For example, here in the Tennessee Appalachians, I keep my pistols inside (nice&cool). Take them outside into the heat & humidity, and Voile' - condensation. Done with shooting - entire outside of pistol gets a coat of silicone oil on a cotton cleaning patch.

PATCHWORM for running patch thru barrel. Avoid cleaning rod, if ever!

Thanks guys for the tips. Much appreciated! :)

Champions Choice in LaVerge TN has the "Patch Worm" set-up for a few bucks. Called "Pocket Field Kit" -universal firearms cleaner-. (From 20/20 concepts, their site: www-patchwormDOTcom).

It's a green plastic line with adapters for .20, .22, .243-.284, .308-.348, .355-.400, .41-.45, and a 12-gauge disk.

I use this for ALL my barrels. I pulls patches thru Bore-to-Barrel, leaving the crown intact. ALL barrels means both rifle and pistol. I avoid the cleaning rod and brass brushes as much as possible.

((Experimenting with an OTIS product that will pull thru a brass-brush Bore-to-Barrel, attempting to eliminate cleaning rods almost completely.)

HOPE THIS HELPS!!!

As for maintenance we have club pistols that have never seen a refurb after 10 years of being thrashed by juniors and still go fine.
Eh, don't really need much just on the external blued and phosphated surfaces. There is quite a lot of dissimilar metals on the 162 model, if you are not careful there are a few places that do rust (have seen on club pistols)

Grub screws that hold the barrel in can get crusty (dissimilar metals).
Rear plate under the grip that holds the guts of the gun in.
Barrel
Cocking lever.

All those places I give mine a wipe once a week with CorrosionX Aviation which is good for dissimilar metals. I don't clean the inside of my barrel. If you must: use felt wads.

Places that need regular lubing, none really. There is quite a lot of grease in the right places on a Morini from the factory, if you smudge that back into the places that it should, maybe quarterly, be then you usually good to go.
The camming surface and pivot on the cocking lever need a bit of grease. For low performance applications, low pressure/speed/friction almost any grease would work. Probably even margarine would work. I use grease out of a STGW57 kit.

There is one other place that needs greasing very sparingly, and that is the threads for the cylinder - if you feel it dry and galling make sure you put a tiny smudge on the adapter and then screw it into the air pistol bottle.

kevinweiho wrote:I’ll chime in... I suppose your pistol is the mechanical version. All match pcp airpistols are pretty much maintenance free and only require very little lubrication. Being a new gun, you should first clean the bore with some cotton patches.

Use a small dab of Superlube grease or Feinwerkbau “special grease” on the bolt o-ring and on the threads of the air cylinders. Clean and regrease when necessary, DO NOT over lube.

Wipe down the barrel and metal parts with an oily rag after each trip to the range. (I use CorrosionX, but would recommend Ballistol). The bore does not need to be cleaned unless if you’re not going to use your pistol for an extended period of time. I also throw in a silica gel desiccant packet in my case for peace of mind.

Thank you for your info! I greatly appreciate it!

atomicgale wrote:SILICONE OIL ONLY. Never use petroleum-based oils as these have solvents which will immediately degrade the seals.

Super-Lube: Silicone Oil (100cst - "centistokes" viscosity), part#56104. Readily available for under $10.

Silicone Oil being "Poly-Dimethyl-Siloxane" for the techie's out there. Basically food-grade liquid polymerized silicone oil. Definitely doesn't stink like synthetic petroleum-based oil.

I'd recommend VERY SPARINGLY use on a felt-pellet (VFG-Quick Cleaning Pellets, part#66793). And we're talking oil on the felt pellet - Once in a Blue Moon. With frequent shooting, running dry felt pellets, you should be "Good-to-Go!".

Air pistol barrels generally won't lead-up, like firearms. Melting point of lead being 621.5f, there's not enough barrel friction at 500feet/second to smear the lead.

External oil frequently is okay. For example, here in the Tennessee Appalachians, I keep my pistols inside (nice&cool). Take them outside into the heat & humidity, and Voile' - condensation. Done with shooting - entire outside of pistol gets a coat of silicone oil on a cotton cleaning patch.

PATCHWORM for running patch thru barrel. Avoid cleaning rod, if ever!

Thank you! I greatly appreciate the info!

ActumLibero wrote:For a new CM162M pistol

what is the best lubricant brand and maintenance cycle for it? the user manual has zero info

thank you in advance!

Thank you all! great info!

Screw all these bore cleaning suggestions. You should initially clean your bore to get the old lube and machining swarf from it, then forget it.

If this offends your delicate sensibilities, then break the end off a Q-Tip and shoot a couple of those through the gun now and then.

Screw all these bore cleaning suggestions. You should initially clean your bore to get the old lube and machining swarf from it, then forget it.

If this offends your delicate sensibilities, then break the end off a Q-Tip and shoot a couple of those through the gun now and then.[/quote

+1

@Rover: Frankly my dear, a box of Q-Tips COSTS MORE than a tin of felt pellets!

Instead, try this:

Soak Rover's Q-Tip in ethyl ether, the compressed air pressure DETONATES the ether, and Voile': TRACER AMMO for 10-meter air pistol!!!

Essentially, the Poor-Man's SCATT System!

atomicgale wrote:@Rover: Frankly my dear, a box of Q-Tips COSTS MORE than a tin of felt pellets!

Instead, try this:

Soak Rover's Q-Tip in ethyl ether, the compressed air pressure DETONATES the ether, and Voile': TRACER AMMO for 10-meter air pistol!!!

Essentially, the Poor-Man's SCATT System!

Actually, the Q-Tips are cheaper and you won't shoot a whole package over the life of the gun.

I like the tracer idea; perfect for AA on those flies in the outhouse.

I still think cleaning by shooting either felts or qtips is like vacuuming the living room carpet at 30 miles an hour in 2 seconds - bound to miss something.

Akin to the new microwave fireplace where the whole family can cosy up round the fire on a winters evening in just 3 minutes.

Works great for drying the poodle, too!