TargetTalk

I just received a used FWB 602 and I'd like some advice about how to finish the stock.

The stock is mostly very shiny but the cheek piece has some peeling (what looks to be) shellac or varnish. Most of the stock is really shiny.

Is that the tradition on older rifles? To varnish or shellac them and get a very shiny finish? Or is it ever done that the stock is sanded down and then just oiled (or something else applied)? Would it be sacrilege if I did that? Should I keep the stock very shiny?

I've certainly got to do something about the cheek piece and don't mind doing the entire stock. But I don't know what I should do.

Advice and comments most welcome!

Is your stock walnut or laminate?

abinok wrote:Is your stock walnut or laminate?

It's laminate, and as far as I've seen, the usual stock on FWB match rifles (at least the ones with wood stocks).



You can just barely see the cheek piece where the finish has been peeling off.

You could try spray lacquer. If the stock was nicely figured walnut then it would be worthwhile taking the time to hand rub a dozen coats of raw linseed oil, but not for laminate.

I've had very good luck with Tru-Oil fron Birchwood Casey.

Sand all the varnish off, then put a few drops on the stock and rub in with your fingertip. You want many very thin coats, maybe 10 in total. The stuff takes some time to dry (figure a day a coat) but you can keep shooting between coats, just make sure it's dry before shooting the rifle. Then after your practice session give it another coat.

It may take 25 drops for the first coat, but in the end it should only take 5 drops a coat once you build up a few layers. I did a gunstock this way and it turned out very nice.

The answer to your question is very easy

Sell it to me, I'll shoot it as is, you would not have to deal with the mess and we both win. :)

ps: I'll even pick up the shipping costs.

Shooterer wrote:The answer to your question is very easy

Sell it to me, I'll shoot it as is, you would not have to deal with the mess and we both win. :)

ps: I'll even pick up the shipping costs.

Your kindness overwhelms me! I mean, what an incredibly helpful and caring group of members here. Thank you so much.

























NOT A CHANCE THOUGH!!!!!!! :)

I've used regular polyurethane clear coats on laminate stocks with much success. Spray or wipe on... doesn't matter. Id reccomend sanding the existing finish rather than atacking it chemically. Ive seen the glue between wood layers become tacky, and begin to come apart with oven cleaners and the like.

A few of your rifles siblings shipped with walnut stocks, which would be a very different task. Your rifle is going to look great, and won't take much work to get there.

True oil would be soft and all wrong and it doesn't warrant a built up shellac/varnish violin finish; use a steel scraper, sand it clean, then spray or brush on polyurethane.

patriot wrote:True oil would be soft and all wrong and it doesn't warrant a built up shellac/varnish violin finish; use a steel scraper, sand it clean, then spray or brush on polyurethane.

Saw your post just in time... I've just stripped off all the old varnish from the cheek piece and was going to steel wool it and then apply Tru-Oil.

You guys really think that polyurethane would be a better choice?

Yep, True Oil is the easy route and looks pretty good bringing out walnut grain. But True Oil will be darker than the rest of the stock. If you have the skills poly would be much more durable and a better color match. Steel wool can leave bits of steel in the finish, ugly, its better to prep progressively with sandpaper (100, 220, 400 and even 600 if you want it perfect). Always sand in the direction of the grain; never across. One down side of poly over true varnish is it leaves witness lines between coats if you rub it out, but if you want to match the shinny finish that won't be necessary; unless you have a run. If the finish on the cheekpiece is a little too shinny, use just a little rubbing compound after it is dry to bring it down a notch.

Mark