TargetTalk

Can anyone advise me, please, on the height of sight raisers likely to be needed to move from 25 yards to 100 yards? I have not shot at 100 yards hitherto and I wish to avoid endless clicking. 25 yards to 50 metres can be achieved, I find, with about 15 clicks on my rearsight (which is a '20 click' model), so that is not a great problem. I have a 4mm block on my rearsight already to compensate, in part, for the 22mm foresight that I use. I understand that at 100 yards adjusting the cheek piece may also be advisable, but that doesn't seem too arduous. Or are sight raisers not the best way of dealing with the required change in elevation?

Roger,

I think the difference on the rearsight is about 2mm, which is probably too thin for a single raiser block, unless you swap your 4mm for a custom made 6mm. Rather than count the eight-odd clicks you can just count turns - four complete turns would see you somewhere in the 8 or 9 ring (depending on wind and light).

Whether you click the rearsight, or add a riser block, if your rifle has an adjustable cheekpiece it would be sensible to adjust it, otherwise you will be relying on your neck muscles to align your eye with the centre of the rearsight aperture.

Personally I think that if you want a quick way to change your elevation to 100 yards, look at the other end of the barrel. Turnover foresights like Barry Nesom's, John Kelly's, the Womack, or the old -fashioned stepped blocks are quicker than fiddling with rearsight raiser blocks. Some shooters do swap the rearsight, but this can get expensive, and you still need to adjust the cheekpiece (unless you really push the boat out and buy a spare cheekpiece too).

We have found it simplest to be 3-3.5 inches high at 50yds knowing that will be close at 100. Doing this different tube lenghts and so on are accounted for. We count clicks between 50 and 100. Its fast and easy. Adjusing ck piece is good. Im sure risers could be used, im going to try that shooting at 200!

Back in the old days two step front sight blocks were popular for changing distances. If you are shooting an Anschutz 1813 or older without a bloop tube it would be an option. Front sights that are adjustable for height (Right Sight or RPA Ladder for example) will allow you to adjust most of the 7 minutes elevation between 50 and 100 or 18 from 100 to 200, minimizing the rear sight and cheek piece adjustment. But the exact amount of rear adjustment depends on your sight radius.

Mark

http://www.championshooters.com/index.p ... Itemid=111

Mark, I need to be about 18 inches high at a hundred to be ok at 200 right? Or 25 minutes high at 50 to be ok at 200? Trying to be on paper for a 200yd match next month. Probably wont get to try 200 before it either.

Very helpful responses - grateful thanks to all of you. I feel much better informed now.

Tim - funnily enough I already have a 6mm rearsight block (obtained via ebay from someone that makes unusual sizes, and very well machined it is too, superior I would say to some of the commercial offerings, not least because it has numerous fixing screws that prevent the block from becoming unbalanced and lop-sided as you fasten it down). I might try this in the first instance.

I had heard of the turn-over front sights and I possess a Right Sight, but I'm not sure how to reconcile either with my use of a Centra foresight that has an eagle eye, level, and, above all, a very particular Centra High End insert (5.5 x 1.3) that really seems to suit me. In fact, I think it may have improved my (not very brilliant) average by at least a point since I started using it. The Right Sight has most of the desired features but its ring is on the thick side for my current preference in front aperture - it adjusts for inner diameter only.

Roger

If you need to keep your foresight, and can't fit a stepped foresight block, then I would agree Tim and wind on four turns on the rear sight. Its actually a very reliable method to go from 50m to 100yd. Adjusting the cheek piece will be necessary whatever you do if you are adjusting at the rearsight.

Alan

Below is the JBM calculation. For standard velocity ammo it looks like you should print 13.4 inches high at 50 yards or have 25.6 minutes on the sight.

Mark

Hi all,

patriot wrote:For standard velocity ammo it looks like you should print 13.4 inches high at 50 yards or have 25.6 minutes on the sight.

but that seems to me only true for centre your shots at 200 yards.


Here in Germany we have a popular traditional match shooting small bore rifle at 100 meters in the standing position, so most of our shooters are able to adjust theirs rear sights from 50 m to 100 m.

A standard .22 lr drops circa 22 - 24 centimetres when zeroed at 50 m and goes circa 10 - 12 cm high at 50 m when zeroed at 100 m.

Our easy to remember rule of thump for that adjusting is circa 50 up clicks for the normal rear sights (10 clicks per turn) and circa 100 clicks for the finer 20 clicks per turn rear sights or circa 5 turns up for both rear sights. Maybe you need also some minor horizontal adjustment if you cant your rifle.

Also adjusting from 50 yds to 100 yds is not the same then adjusting from 50 m to 100 m it is not so fare away.

Tim S is right with his circa 2 mm up and redschiettis rule with his 3 - 3.5 inches high at 50 yd seems also a good rule of thump for me. As i said we need circa 10 - 12 cm high at 50 m for centre at 100 m.


Regards from good old Germany

Frank