TargetTalk

Hi everyone,

I've recently bought a Scatt MX-02 and, although I'm happy with how it works I've discovered that attaching it to my LP10E is… less than elegant.

As far as I'm aware, it's not possible to attach it to the air cylinder before you attach the cylinder to the pistol because you wouldn't be able to screw the cylinder on.

When the cylinder is on, the barrel shroud is fairly snugly fitted against the cylinder. I can just about slide the Scatt's metal attachment strip between the two, but I have to push the two apart in a way that no doubt stresses something that shouldn't be stressed, and it scratches up the cylinder in a really nasty way.

How does anyone who's using Scatt with an LP10 / LP10E attach theirs? Maybe using some sort of longer attachment band that goes around both the cylinder and barrel shroud? I see that the Scatt site lists a longer metal band as an optional extra:

http://www.scatt.com/mount/67/mounting-plate-xxl/

Hi Tom,

Use a single layer of masking tape on the cylinder where your intend to position the Scatt sensor. Then with the band only in place screw the cylinder onto the pistol. You will then be able to fix the sensor to the free ends of the strip when the cylinder is in place and the tape will prevent scratching. The single layer of tape will should not interfere with the sensor operation and in any case is a good idea as it helps prevent slippage of the sensor.

Hope that this helps.

Rutty

Thanks, Rutty: that's very helpful! Screwing the cylinder on with a layer of masking tape and the Scatt attachment strip in there is probably going to take some practice, but it's a lot better than any of the ideas I've tried so far!

Your other alternative is to get hold of an old out-of-date cylinder that somebody has laying around and just use that with Scatt.

Good idea, David. I guess it doesn't make any difference if the cylinder is out of date enough that I wouldn't want to put compressed air in it!

TomCat80 wrote: I can just about slide the Scatt's metal attachment strip between the two
How does anyone who's using Scatt with an LP10 / LP10E attach theirs? Maybe using some sort of longer attachment band that goes around both the cylinder and barrel shroud? I see that the Scatt site lists a longer metal band as an optional extra:

http://www.scatt.com/mount/67/mounting-plate-xxl/

I have no problem using this method. Metal strip first.

There is enough room on my LP10E to slip the band on the cylinder. I would NOT try the longer band around the shroud!

It takes but a few seconds to take the barrel shroud off, problem solved.

- Dave

If they have a .177 mounting insert then everything will be easier.

conradin wrote:If they have a .177 mounting insert then everything will be easier.

The sensor on the Scatt MX-02 is bigger than the other SCATT models plus it has a USB cord, I don't think I'd put that kind stress on an AP barrel.

- Dave

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone!

Dave, are you suggesting that I should try removing the barrel shroud, attaching the Scatt sensor around the cylinder, then re-attaching the barrel shroud? I just wanted to be 100% sure of what you're suggesting before I start removing parts…

Right, here's where I've got so far.

The 'protect the cylinder with masking tape' idea works fairly well, but the fitting between the barrel shroud and the cylinder is so tight that it's very hard to tighten the cylinder up properly when the Scatt attachment band is in place.

I've also tried the 'remove the barrel shroud' idea, but that suffers from a similar problem. There really isn't much room between the cylinder and shroud!

Forgive me for asking what is no doubt a stupid question, but why wouldn't using a longer attachment band that goes around both the cylinder and the shroud be a good idea? Assuming that I avoid any of the ports on the shroud, etc.

When attaching scatt I first remove the cylinder and reattach it loosely until I feel first resistance, so that it still moves around. Then I put the metal band between the cylinder and barrel shroud and attach the sensor, again loosely so that the cylinder can still be rotated. The sensor should be attached towards rear end of the cylinder where there is more room between cylinder and barrel shroud. I attach the sensor as rear as I can, so that the USB cable almost touches the trigger guard. Finally I thread the cylinder all the way in, align the sensor and fix it snugly.
At least on my LP10E this works and there has been no marks on the cylinder (blue cylinder) even without protecting it in any way, at least not yet. I don't remember if I sanded any burrs away from the metal band when I got my scatt.