TargetTalk

I have just received my Styer LP10E ; I have short trigger finger , reversing the angle of of trigger shoe to accomodate the need is not the best solution , same time en route to forming the grip , I would appreciate all elaborations in the course of forming to help solve this problem , many thanks.

1. remove the metal bracket from inside the grip,the rear adjustment screws and also remove as much wood as needed so that the velocity screw fits inside the grip. because of the way the grip is fixed and the angle of the screw, it might get difficult to really tighten the gripscrew. the rest has to be done from the outside by carving. there's also the old "standard" trigger from the lp1, still available, which will get you 1-2mm.
2. if you can't get it working, then maybe its the wrong gun

Hi , flolo , thank you very much for your advice. Apprehended all. I have already taken out the rear adjustment screws , will try the rest , and same time I am doing the forming on the outside , pls elaborate the carving , would you have sketches to illustrate , thanks again.

apron wrote: pls elaborate the carving , would you have sketches to illustrate , thanks again.

Carve out until it fits your hand. If you go too far, add some bondo (or other automotive body putty) and try again.
If you completely mess up, you can get a new grip. But if you take your some and go slow you should be just fine.

Shoot straight!

And: its the fit that matters. Depending on your Hand, you maybe can't avoid carving through/ holes. But this is Mainly a cosmetic Problem. And, the general rule is to start from the rear. So, i would go First for the area between thumb and index by carving as much as possible, and then fit the Rest of the grip to your hand. If you do the stuff in my first post, Remember that the adjustability of the grip isn't possible anymore.

And: it. will Take some Time and some Minor corrections now and then to get the grip working as your hand changes depending on Temperature, stress etc.

Hi flolo , I am going to purchase the standard trigger , I am thinking of grinding away the surface of the trigger to make it even a touch thinner , is it against the rules in doing so ?

apron wrote:I am thinking of grinding away the surface of the trigger to make it even a touch thinner , is it against the rules in doing so ?

No. Just make sure you keep the groove in the middle of the trigger blade. This gives you (and the equipment control officer) a consistent place to position the test weight.

Try working in the grip first as described above. It will get your finger much closer than any grinding of the trigger blade can.

Hope this helps

you can also grind on the rear. and mec-shot.de sells an golden anodised trigger which already has a groove on the rear, which, with even less modification, will fit around the weight screw "tower", see pic below

here's the front view

Is this golden trigger , thinner than the LP10e trigger ?

it's 3.0 mm from the groove to the frontside, and 4.3 mm from the outside, i think, iirc, the lp1 standard trigger is thinner. don't know about the lp10e trigger as i sold mine in 2010( mainly because of my short fingers)

Hi Flolo , appreciate all your inputs. I have been advised & am thinking of purchasing a XS grip , (now I am now using a S) , on the existing S grip , at the base of the 2 adjustment slots , there is a gap of 0.2 cm still to go downwards , meaning a smaller grip is negotiable , and I have put up quite a bit of Sugru at the top shelf below the 3rd finger slot , (pls see the 2 pic's) , so I am thinking of taking a XS to try. Again , appreciate your input on this.