Runnig out of clicks

conradin · Post by **conradin** » Tue May 28, 2013 2:58 am

I use my FWB65 for weight and resistance training purposes.. I have the recoil locked, and set to center fire mode.

While I can consistently hit the target, form nice groupings, no matter how hard I try, I cannot bring the grouping, or shoot anything, to the right side of the target. Whether it is sub 5 to sub 3 the most it can do is to hit around 8 ring at 9 o'clock. The only time I managed to hit to the right side of the target, which is a one ring, I basically aim the pistol to what would be amount to cross firing other people's target.

The front blade is fine and vertical, and the rear sight is fine. I wish the window will be wider, but this is an old model, in any case I don't think it is not the origin of the problem.

T/H is relatively good. I don't need to adjust it, or at most one click, and that depends on how far I want the sub 6 to be aim at close to the 7 ring.

L/T is the problem. Even if I manage to click all the way to the L, as instructed, and indeed the entire rear sight DID move towards the direction that will make the sight aiming right, I STILL ended up shooting on the left side of the target.

If I leave the L/T neutral, then when I aim sub 6, the "bulls-eye" will ended up at 0 ring at 9 o'clock. Move the L all the way, it faired slightly better to around 2 ring at 9 o'clock, but cannot go any further to the right.

While I consider the FWB65 merely as a dumbbell, I do want to at least fire it decently. Otherwise I really may as well use a dumbbell. My regular pistol is an LP-10, and the regular backup is an LP-1.

I am at a loss. Every pistol that I own can be adjusted, this one does not, yet the sight system DOES move.

For the record, I use H&N Finale Match pistol grade, I have also used other such as RWS 4.48 rifle grade or 4.49 rifle grade. Nothing changes. I wonder if the head size matter much. The only head size I have not tried is 4.51m.

Previously I thought it might have been the front sight, as I used a tall 3.0mm, but right now I am using the regular 3.2mm, same results. All veered towards the left. Front and Rear sights are all vertical, so no cant is in play here. Frustrating.

I usually shoot a whole tin per day, today I cut it short because I don't see any point of continuing until I get some advice.

Help?

Tim S · Post by **Tim S** » Tue May 28, 2013 6:23 am

If the shots are hitting left, would you not want to move the rearsight to the right? Unless pistol sights work very differently to rifle sights, you move the rearsight in the direction you want the shots to go, not in the direction they are going.

RobStubbs · Post by **RobStubbs** » Tue May 28, 2013 6:25 am

Are you sure the barrel is straight ?

I'd also double check the foresight is not twisted (I note you said it was OK), and also check the rearsight has not been knocked in some way and isn't therefore square. Failing all that, I'd get a gunsmith to take a look at it.

Rob.

conradin · Post by **conradin** » Tue May 28, 2013 1:28 pm

RobStubbs wrote:Are you sure the barrel is straight ?

Rob.

Is there a way to check if the barrel is straight?

Joakim · Post by **Joakim** » Wed May 29, 2013 3:35 am

Tim S wrote:If the shots are hitting left, would you not want to move the rearsight to the right? Unless pistol sights work very differently to rifle sights, you move the rearsight in the direction you want the shots to go, not in the direction they are going.

I don't think the OP means he is moving the rear sight physically to the left, but rather that he is turning the screw in the direction labelled L, which is the opposite of that. Guns manufactured in German-speaking countries typically label the screws by where the shots are currently hitting, often clarified with the preposition "bei" in combination with L (links = left), R (rechts = right), H (hoch = high) and T (tief = low).

RobStubbs · Post by **RobStubbs** » Wed May 29, 2013 6:13 am

conradin wrote:
RobStubbs wrote:Are you sure the barrel is straight ?

Rob.
Is there a way to check if the barrel is straight?

I think a bore scope should show you that, not sure though how you'd fit one onto a FWB 65. Failing that put a 177 cleaning rod in and see what it shows - might not be sensative enough.

Bottom line though is if you cannot get the sights to move such that you can hit both the left and right side of the target and the middle, then it needs looking at by someone who knows what they're doing doing.

I'm assuming you've moved the windage knob to the extreme in both directions so you know it's not just you turning the knob in the wrong direction (?).

Rob.

conradin · Post by **conradin** » Wed May 29, 2013 5:23 pm

RobStubbs wrote: I'm assuming you've moved the windage knob to the extreme in both directions so you know it's not just you turning the knob in the wrong direction (?).
Rob.

Yes, to no avail. I actually count the clicks for both knobs so I know exactly at where I am.

Then strangely I decided to switch the pistol using my left hand, as I always intend the pistol to be used as a left hand dumbbell. The windage almost ran out, with 3 to 6 clicks left on the L, but it finally shoot "straight" enough that it is tolerable. Still cannot shoot sub 6, but a sub 5 1/2 is good enough for a dumbbell. But if I do it with my right hand, then I have to wind it to the extreme without achieving anything. Right now what puzzled me is that, while the T/H never gives me problem, how I am starting to have problems with it. But at least I have it dialed to the point that it is tolerable. At one point I have to aim sub 6 underneath the target box just to have the pellet ended up at the very top of the target.

This FWB65 is so addicting. I keep wanting to get more and more accessories for it. On the other hand, the performance is not even remotely close to a PCP AP. The FPS difference is huge.

Eck · Post by **Eck** » Wed May 29, 2013 7:10 pm

On the other hand, the performance is not even remotely close to a PCP AP. The FPS difference is huge.[/quote]

I know a guy that took a silver in a sectional with a FWB 65. He beat a a couple of PCP air pistols ...

RobStubbs · Post by **RobStubbs** » Thu May 30, 2013 1:51 am

Eck wrote:On the other hand, the performance is not even remotely close to a PCP AP. The FPS difference is huge.

I know a guy that took a silver in a sectional with a FWB 65. He beat a a couple of PCP air pistols ...

Might have gotten gold had he used a decent pistol ;)

That's meant as a joke before anyway revives the old gun v new gun 'discussion'

Rob.

conradin · Post by **conradin** » Thu May 30, 2013 5:14 am

Eck wrote: I know a guy that took a silver in a sectional with a FWB 65. He beat a a couple of PCP air pistols ...

If you have an LP10E I will gladly buy you a Diana. I am sure you can use that to beat quite a few PCPs. :)

FWB65 demise is not because of FWB2, but because of Steyr and Morini started using PCP.

GaryN · Post by **GaryN** » Thu May 30, 2013 11:19 am

Quote: - Then strangely I decided to switch the pistol using my left hand, as I always intend the pistol to be used as a left hand dumbbell. The windage almost ran out, with 3 to 6 clicks left on the L, but it finally shoot "straight" enough that it is tolerable. -

This is telling me that your hand or trigger finger is pushing the pistol to one side.
My thought is that your right hand trigger finger is not going STRAIGHT BACK, rather it is pushing the trigger (and also the gun) to the left.

This is in recoil mode.
What happens when you remove the recoil block so the pistol works in recoilless mode? Does the pistol still shoot to the left?