TargetTalk

Hi all,
I am looking for a putty that hardens to some degree but can removed again from the wood. I want to use it for modeling a grip and then having it copy milled into a new grip. After that I would like to remove the putty again without much damage.

Is this possible, do you have any suggestions on what to use? There are dozens of putty-like materials out there on the market, one of them should do the trick it seems.

Robert

Polymorph it's a hot water activated plastic and you can remove it after it hardens as it has no glue in it.

Just look on you tube to see people using it for all sorts. I've used it on grips as you can remove it many times if needed to change things around.

Thanks for the hint!

Robert

I've just modified the Morini grip on my GSP with polymorph. It was very easy to do but the plastic has a waxy feel which affects the grip feel. I put the stuff on the front of the grip so my middle fingers are at right angles to the axis of the pistol. I also used some to fill out the palm area. I have yet to shoot the pistol though I've dry fired. I think I'll need to find a way to roughen up the surface. Perhaps a little heat with a hot air gun and a sprinkling of sand?

Bob

I would not put sand on as it may end up all over your case and in the workings of your gun.

Try heating up a piece of metal in boiling water and melting a cross hatch design into the polymorph.

I usually try to do this while it's still soft but you can do it buy heating up a knife and pushing in a design afterwards.

You could also put little pieces of sugru onto of the polymorph to make some spots more grippy.

How do you get the polymoroh to stick to the wood ? Mine comes off immediately it has set.

We are talking about temporary adjustments here there is better stuff for permanent amendments to your grip.

I find the polymorph will stick to the textured parts of the grip but I put a little double sided tape or silicone sealant on under the bits that fit on the smooth parts of the grip.

I only use polymorph while I figure out what changes I need to make to my grip and after I am happy I replicate the changes with sugru for a permanent solution.

OK thanks Mole.

To take another tack: most of the epoxy putties that are easily workable (two part kneaded) can be removed by putting the grips in a freezer and then giving them a rap with a hardwood stick (hammer handle).

I kind of like Aqua-Mend; available at Home Depot. I worked on my Free Pistol yesterday morning with it before the match.

I have never needed to completely remove putty, but instead file it down or add more.

I read on one of the Army Marksmanship pages that they use QuickSteel. It is a 2 part epoxy which starts hardening in about 15 minutes and completely cures overnight.

I bought some at Walmart but it is available at other places including automotive stores.

I used it on both my AP and FP grip. I like it better than wood filler because it is like a clay and you can keep working with it for 10 to 15 minutes before it gets too hard.

After it cures, it files down great.

You can give a try to Milliput (see Amazon.com). Cure time is about 1 hour, giving you am-ple time to model it up to your specification. Worked excellently on my pistol. Aesthetically, it is not ideal as it cannot be tinted into colour of dark wood that most grips are made off. But, your hand will cover it while shooting!