TargetTalk

My friend encountered a problem with his Hammerli 162. I hope someone can help me with experience with this FP.

The red light will be on when pressed showing the power supply is good. When the trigger is pressed, the green light will also be on which should implies everything is normal. However, the trigger mechanism will not activate. but if the white plastic screw under the sear is turned clockwise, it can manually released.

Could any expert can provide me any information. The pity thing is Hammerli does not have any spare or channel to consult anymore. Sorry for such a good pistol.[/img]

Firstly change the batteries. At times when the battery power gets low, but still lights up the red & green indicator lights, there may not be enough energy to get a good consistant trigger release - this has happened to me several times and the battery change fixes it.

Secondly remove the grip and look at the top of the solenoid area.
Cock the pistol and see if the sear at the bottom of the "bolt" is setting and there is a gap between it and the top of the solenoid, and that the pin that comes up through the solenoid is not sitting up out of the solenoid when the pistol is cocked- it should be down in the solenoid out of sight when the pistol is cocked. This pin needs to come up and firmly strike the sear when the trigger is released so there must be a gap.

The white plastic screw in the base of the solenoid will adjust the amount of travel of the pin a small amount.

If oil has seeped into the solenoid it needs to be cleaned out and the top area of the solenoid and underside of the bolt be kept as free of oil and debris as possible. Oil & solvents will also breakdown the solenoid pin and the tip that strikes the sear may break off, leaving the pin too short. The pin can be lengthened a little using care and correct size punch.

Hope this helps.

It is grateful to have some advise and I will ask my friend to change the battery, at least it will be the easiest thing to do.

However, I have a doubt that as these electronic triggers works with the solenoid and will the problem be caused by the capacitor on the electronic board.

I have an experience with my Morini 84E that it will take more time to ignite the trigger, i.e. to cock twice in order to have a good fire but the trigger still works on dry fire mode. I later discovered that some oil marks around the capacitor contacts and change to a new capacitor. It then works like new.

Can I ask a favor of you, could you post pics of inletting on your model 162 grips? Sounds like a strange request, but, I'd like to see if they'd fit onto a different model.

Thank you,
Chuck

I know my friend uses the grip from Rink, Germeny.

please check their website at http://www.formgriffe.de/en/shpSR.php?s ... 255&p2=255

chuckjordan wrote:Can I ask a favor of you, could you post pics of inletting on your model 162 grips? Sounds like a strange request, but, I'd like to see if they'd fit onto a different model.

Thank you,
Chuck

Chuck I have 162 grips and will get a picture for you Saturday. Mine are also for sale.
Ben

Here em is:

Ben, Thank you very much. Exactly what I was searching for. Now to pull out the TOZ35 and compare the inletting.

I have a friend who shoots a Toz, I don't think you can put a Toz into the Morini grip for 84E.

The grips are wood. Why not? A little wood filler on the inletting and then re-inlet for the TOZ frame. Am I missing something here?

My only concern is the rear sight.

Ideally, If someone would place one half of a grip and layer the TOZ frame on top.

As far as I know, the Toz grip is separated into left and right section and uses screws to attach on the frame. Whereas the Morini uses a screw and lock the grip to the frame from the bottom, moreover, there is the space at the bottom of the grip for the electronic board and battery. Least of all, I think the angle of insert is important. Even if you success in locking the Toz with the frame, the aiming angle may not be the same.

ISSFFP wrote:As far as I know, the Toz grip is separated into left and right section and uses screws to attach on the frame. Whereas the Morini uses a screw and lock the grip to the frame from the bottom, moreover, there is the space at the bottom of the grip for the electronic board and battery. Least of all, I think the angle of insert is important. Even if you success in locking the Toz with the frame, the aiming angle may not be the same.

I thought he was trying to put Hammerli 162 grips on the TOZ.

Bingo!

I am trying to put a TOZ-35 (frame) in the Hammerli 152 grips. I can adjust the rake if I need too be how I use the filler.

OK, let's let the cat out of the bag.
1) I have a TOZ-35 (not M model) with right hand grips.
2) I am left handed. I didn't shoot too well RH when my Std. Pistol and everything else is LH.
3) I'm cheap. I want to buy Larry's Left Hand Hammerli 152 grips here: http://www.larrysguns.com/Products/Grip ... istol.aspx

Ooopppsss! I'm on a 162 thread and they're selling them for a model 152. Oh well, I may just buy them, they're only $75....

I truly appreciate everyones concern and interest. Thank you!

Sorry, my mistakes. but if you are doing so, you can check the description on Rink between left and right grips for Toz.

http://www.formgriffe.de/en/shpSR.php?s ... =255[quote][/quote]

TYVM!