TargetTalk

It would seem in North America Machine rests such as Ransom Rests are used quite frequently to test accuracy of a load and pistol, especially amongst bull’s-eye shooters. While there is a lot of debate and differing opinions over the use machine rest, what I would like to know what shooters, national teams are using in other parts of the world?

Any photos would be greatly appreciated. I’m not looking to take anything away from Ransom Rest Caldwell Hammer, etc… but I suspect there are not alternates being used in Europe and Asia.

Thanks,

Brian

Some of the pistols, especially European models can't be put in a Ransom Rest anyway,my Benellis being one of them.

Oldcaster,

Why cant a Benelli be shot in a ransom rest? Lack of inserts?

You do raise a point about European guns, which is why im curious what is being used outside of North America.

Thanks for replying

Brian

The Benelli just has a threaded rod, probably 5 mm or so that is on a pivot that holds the frame to the stock so there really isn't any amount of a frame coming down from the area below the slide. I think it can even be pivoted forward and back on the wooden grip to change the angle a bit. It might be possible to make an insert and tighten it to the insert but I think it would move. Maybe not with the 22 but certainly with the 32. The 32's don't kick that awful much but they kick really straight back which would be difficult for a Ransom Rest to control without a good grip on the gun. I'm not sure about the rest of the European guns but I think a Walther GSP can be shot in a RR. Perhaps someone with more knowledge about individual European guns could chime in. I use scope mounts for testing but you need real good mounts and they have to be the narrow air pistol type and also rather tall so the empties won't jam. The scope might slide on you also because of the straight back recoil.

Years ago we set up our Ransom rest to deal with European pistols, usually the GSP or one of the FAS models. The solution is a 2.5 to 3 inch disc, the thickness of the frame with a bolt to secure it to the pistol. A blank RR insert is then routed out to fit the frame plus the disc - we referred to it as a "puck" because we're Canucks. Worked well for all the times we used.

Dr Jim

How would you kep the disc from turning and making the shots high or low. I think with the GSP you can get actual inserts.

I've made adapters for all my int pistols. My first was for my first FP, a Drulov 75. I've also made them for my IZH 35, Benelli MP95, as well as for my TOZ. The Dulov and Benelli use the existing grip drawbolts which simply bolt to maple blocks shaped like a 1911 frame, and fit a 1911 adapter. The IZH35 and the TOZ which are more complicated, are made of Micarta, machined on my Bridgeport, and fit grip adapters cut to fit. I sent the IZH35 adapter to Don Nygord when we were working on the slide hold open I'd designed for it, and it was lost when he passed away, don't know who has it.

Paul

oldcaster wrote:How would you kep the disc from turning and making the shots high or low. I think with the GSP you can get actual inserts.

The cuts on the RR blank included the GSP or FAS frame PLUS the disc - think of the disc and frame up to the top unit as being embedded in the blank - no worries about it moving in any direction.

Dr Jim

Paul,
I had thought of doing it like you did except I was going to cut an original Benelli grip that I had. Someone bought a Fung grip for themselves and gave it to me because they no longer needed it. I was afraid though that it would move because the insides of the grips are always shiny where it touches the frame and I expected that it was from movement. Apparently though you got good results.

Oldcaster, I'm looking at the Benelli adapter.
The critical dimension, as far as the gun fit goes, is to keep the radius where the frame is pulled down on the top, square with the block, with a close fit. I used a 1/8" wide blade on my bandsaw to accomplish this, checking with a square. The hole for the bolt isn't critical, the bolt diameter hole only going half way down, and a larger diameter hole to accept the nut, drilled up from the bottom. I have a washer up in the larger hole for the nut to bear on. As long as the frame bears evenly on the top of the block, the bolt has only to apply downward pressure, and the gun is secure.

I used a piece of 7/8" maple, about 2" wide and 4-1/4" long. I saved a bit of work carving, by applying Realwood filler, as is used for fitting grips, to the front and back edges of the block, in the grip area (1911 mainspring housing, and front grip strap) before clamping it in the 1911 adapters, using them as a mold, to obtain a perfect fit. Bondo could also be used for this. Neither will adhere to the rubber, but you could use a mold release (Vaseline), can't remember whether or not I did.


Paul

I might have to try this even though I finally got a real satisfying load in my Benelli. Scopes work well enough but the level of concentration required is tiring and the posibility of a mistake is always there. -- Bill --