TargetTalk

What seems most common for trigger weight on match rifles for smallbore? I'm used to a 2 stage trigger in High Power with it about 2lbs total and crisp letoff on the 2nd stage.

My 5018 trigger is set on the I cam position so it's between 2-8 oz. I can barely feel where the 2nd stage starts then it releases. I've shot bench rest rifles with 2 oz triggers but they're only 1 stage. I read David Tubbs trigger article and he prefers 16-20 oz. Maybe I just need to get used to this being that light.

Thanks

Trigger weight is a personal preference; many people use 6 oz. I like a long light first stage and solid second stage. The 5018 is about infinitely adjustable. The directions are online if you don't have your manual. If you don't like the way your's is you should find a knowledgeable individual to make sure your's is SAFE and comfortable. The two rear most screws, one shiny and one dark are the stage weights.

You need to get a very definite stop on your second stage or you will probably have problems with accidental discharges. Maybe not in an unsafe way, but quite possibly in an inaccurate way.

Now that I'm shooting prone-only, I've got my triggers set to somewhere between 110-120 grams (3.9-4.2 ounces). I had them lighter when I was shooting 3p.

There are a few ways you can accomplish this from where you are at...lighten the first stage or make the 2nd stage heavier. You will probably need to use a combination of the two. Be careful on the 5018 trigger as you can set the 1st stage too light and it won't reset if you let off the trigger without firing the rifle. Also, on that trigger if you adjust any one thing, it can affect all the other adjustments. Make sure you sear setting is a safe one.

Eric U

There is a relationship between between the first and second stage on the 5018 trigger, but it is difficult to find an explanation anywhere of what this is. Specifically, if you lighten the weight of the second stage, what is the effect on the first stage?

Dennis L

Eric U wrote:You need to get a very definite stop on your second stage or you will probably have problems with accidental discharges. Maybe not in an unsafe way, but quite possibly in an inaccurate way.
Eric U

Got it figured out. Anschutz terminology stinks. Looked at some other doc and it mentioned "Sear Engagement" instead of "Catch Overlap". Regardless I backed out #30 3/4 of a turn and I'm done. Adjusted lots of triggers and this one isn't the worst, doc just not the best.

Trigger's great now!!

Thanks for all the help!!

"Sear engagement" is a pretty good use of terminology, whereas "catch overlap" sounds like something that might happen to your garden gate! :)

Yes the translation of the manual is not the best. There are times where I am not sure if they mean remove the assembly or disengage it????

My current 1913 arrived from Anschütz at around 50g for the first stage, and 110g for the total weight, which was close enough to my '79 Supermatch not to bother with any further adjustment, other than shortening the first stage travel down to about 1mm.

I haven't touched the trigger on my 1913 since it came from the factory a year ago, which is unusual as I'm an infernal tinkerer. I've been meaning to tweak it though, see what sort of weight feels best and suits me, though there are certainly no obvious problems at the moment. Might remove some of the first stage and lighten it a little overall.