WALTHER CP2 MATCH CO2

[derekm]

I've just obtained an old, but good, Walther CP2 Match. A set of o-rings is on it's way to me.

Can anyone point me towards some strip-down instructions please, as the exploded drawing on the Walther site is not very self explanatory.

I doubt the job is rocket science, but fore warned is fore armed.

[ghilt]

Pretty straightforward gun to rebuild. Study the diagram and consider that there are only three o-rings to replace: #307, 305 and 225 total! Start by removing the two screws #50 holding the CO2 tank probe. Do it slowly to catch the valve shaft #305 and its spring #204 as they pop out. Take pictures as you work. Replace #307 and #305 after a light silicone grease. Replace in reverse order. #225 may not require replacement. Check with tissue paper over the breach while firing the gun. If the tissue flys up upon firing call/email me. If the tank leaks the internal o-ring replacement will fix it - also somewhat long to describe here but quite easy.
Good luck

[derekm]

Thanks ghilt. PM sent.

[lamap]

Hi derekm,

I have a walther CPM1 and would like to buy a set of seals.

Can you please inform where is possible to buy in europe?

Best regards,

Luis

[derekm]

The best source of Walther info and bits in the UK is Bill Welch, he trades as "Bill's Walther Spares and Repairs" phone (44) 1243 552204, e mail mogwap@dsl.pipex.com

Apparently sometimes the factory obtains parts from him for older guns!

If you know for sure what materials you need for the seals, you can get the sizes from: http://www.carl-walther.de/files/pdf/CPM1_2602865.pdf

and then order your seals from: http://www.fairwayseals.co.uk/

Be sure you get the right material though, because some orings swell in CO2. I've just made that mistake by specifying Viton, unless Fairway made a boo boo with the material.

[ghilt]

Derekm, your right! my #225 should be #226 (poor copy + ancient eyes). To replace him requires the removal of the entire probe assembly. Start with the rear sight and have a small magnet in your hand to catch small parts when you unscrew the L/H attach screw (#5) because the small spring and detent ball are easily lost (they can be obtained cheaply without bothering Walther). Next comes the operating lever #223, cross pins #35 and 37. And the entire assembly can be drawn out from either the slot in the receiver top or the through hole.
The tank o-ring #27 does take a lot of gaff and needs to be metric and polyurethane --(probably green for European or pale yellow to off white US. You might consider investing in an o-ring probe to remove the tank o-ring. Be careful, everything in there - brass and polyu are softer than the probe! Just insert the probe between the brass o-ring groove shoulder and the ring and pry out. Use silicone grease on a new o-ring, squeeze the middle into a figure “8” and push one end of the ring down into the groove with a wooden popsickle stick. Chase the remainder of the ring into the groove and your all set.
Thus the end of Chapter ll. Let me know how the CP-2 survives its critical operation. Good luck to the patient.

[Luis Pacheco]

Thank you for the information, I will try to get a set of seals for tye cpm1.

Best regards,

Luis

[derekm]

Thanks for that explanation ghilt. If I understand correctly, there will be no need to remove the "hammer" No312.

I have a small problem here, because the drawing says pin 313 is a "kerbstift" which translates to grooved or slotted taper pin. My gun has had a bit of Southern Engineering in the past and this pin has become a rolled up piece of thin sheet!

I don't want to try removing it until I have obtained a set of parallel pin punches and also a correct replacement, from Bill Welch in UK.

[derekm]

Success! Got the probe o-ring changed. Not rocket science, just pretty fiddley. The ball and spring stayed in place, held by grease, but I need a new spring as the old one was in three pieces. I can now see how the Hammer comes out, when I get the correct pin.
Thanks again!