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is there a break muzzle for Toz-35?

Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:15 pm
by robertoherrera
I am a owner of a free pistol Toz-35. It has Morini grip and I was wondering if there are break muzzle for it. Thanks a lot for the info.
Roberto.

Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:12 pm
by Bob-Riegl
Do a search for the Muzzle Brake there have been several shown for the TOZ. "Doc"

Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:20 pm
by robertoherrera
OOopppsss, thanks for the tip...I will do that...thanks!
Roberto

Re: is there a break muzzle for Toz-35?

Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 12:19 pm
by zoned
robertoherrera wrote:I am a owner of a free pistol Toz-35... was wondering if there are break muzzle for it...
I'm curious how a 50-meter pistol would benefit from a muzzle brake? The bullet is long gone before the lift, and there is no need for second-shot stability.

Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:27 pm
by paulo

Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:57 pm
by jipe
The Maennel stuff is actually an Irosa product: http://www.irosa.de/produkte/profiline/ ... ti600.html

Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 5:52 pm
by Gwhite
What I'd like to know is how the heck do you clean these things? I got my Morini with the sight mount extended an inch or so, and by the time I decided to move it back, there was quite a bit of lead fused to the inner walls. A true compensator has to foul even faster (and be harder to clean) if you have all those holes for junk to collect in.

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:57 pm
by Anders Turebrand
Gwhite wrote:What I'd like to know is how the heck do you clean these things?
I have the Irosa compensator, and I find it best to clean it after each training session.
In my experience so far the lead builds up in the first chamber on the surfaces that faces the muzzle, the second chamber, the angled holes and the surfaces that are parallell with the bore have only been lightly fouled.
What I have found to work well to remove the buildup in the first chamber is mechanical cleaning with a brass tube about 10mm (3/8") in diameter that I press against the caked on lead until it "cracks" off.
That surface is slightly angled (like the reverse of a 118-135° drill bit tip angle) so putting pressure straight down the tube results in a slight shearing force, I believe.