TargetTalk

Hi,

The Kite sometimes discharges the when the action is closed. If I open and close the action it will discharge in less than twelve cycles.

The trigger is set at 512 grams. If I set the trigger to 700+ grams it does not malfunction, but I don't want to shoot it at that weight.

There is another possibly unrelated symptom. Sometimes the action feels stiff, sometimes it feels normal. This has been this way for since I got the Kite.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Vin
sakuraba@email.com

The Kite sometimes discharges the when the action is closed.

# It might be the sear/hammer engagement. Maybe too short?

Increasing the second stage length solved this problem with mine.

I will try increasing the second stage travel.
Thanks,
Vin

The problem is solved... sort-of...

I increased my second stage travel, but it did not help. I increased my first stage weight by half a turn and the unwanted discharges seem to have stopped. But I don't like the added weight...

A few people have mentioned the sear engagement How do I fix it? By increasing my second stage weight?

Thanks,
Vin

It's been a long time since I handled a Kite, but....

IIRC like the Pardini the Kite sear engagement is set by the first stage, the second stage being just another spring kicking in. The big foldout manual should give pretty good explanation (in Italenglish) of what's going on.

that seems to explain why increasing the first stage weight fixed the problem.
Thanks,
Vin

now if I could fix the holes in my furniture...

Vin many of the settings in lots of triggers effect one another , especially when any are set to the extremes.

I wanted my pistol to be a black box, something I didn't have to think about.
I guess that was wishful thinking.

Like Richard H said, there are a lot of inter-dependencies. I'm not sure, but I think the second stage travel comes out of the first stage travel. If the first stage is non-existent, there isn't anything left for the second stage.

Also, I think the trigger stop might affect the travel(s). You might have to back it off a bit to allow the travel adjustments to kick in.

It might take a some fiddling around, but once you get it adjusted the way you like it, the Kite does become a black box. It's very good at holding its settings.

Enjoy flying your Kite :)

Very useful information.
Thanks,
Vin

I forgot because it's become such a habit,...

When cocking, always pull on both ears of the hood/bolt handle and try to pull back evenly, and slowly. That way, you can feel both sides click back. You may also feel one side click back before the other!

Since I've found that one side can be cocked while the other is not quite cocked, I have also used both ears to close the bolt. But I have not felt any difference.

Finally, I have also made the mistake of touching the trigger when cocking or closing the bolt. I found out the hard way that the trigger resets on both the open and close. Any touch seems to interrupt the reset and make the trigger very sensitive.

Always keep it pointed in a safe direction.

Confession:
I put a pellet into the wood paneling of our TV room. At least no one was hurt and it did not hit the TV.

Thanks for all the help.
I'm not happy about the two ear thing, but it sounds like a good idea.
Thanks again,
Vin

Vin, to set the sear engagement, read here on page 26 (turn anti-clockwise screw "G" in your case, I suppose, but not much, few degrees only)
ftp://ftp.benelli.it/Public/UM_SPL/G0202301.PDF

Hi,
On page 26 I see screw F, which is called the Blank Travel.
What is blank travel?
Thanks for all the help,
Vin

vin wrote:Hi,
On page 26 I see screw F, which is called the Blank Travel.
What is blank travel?
Thanks for all the help,
Vin

On page 26 of the *document* you can read: "Second phase travel (fig. 17) To decrease travel turn screw (G) clockwise. WARNING: do not over-tighten: the release will not cock." Of course you must go anti-clockwise (few degrees).

As for the 'blank travel' I suppose it is the 'over-travel' after you break the shot. This 'over-travel' can be reduced using the trigger-stop. But this is another topic.

I'm starting to understand, but now that I fixed the unwanted discharge I have another problem... my shot won't break soon enough.

This is what I do:
1.
a. exhale
b. lower
c. try to take up first stage (awkward about doing this so early)
d. line up my my whites on the left and right

2.
a. line up my whites all around

3.
a. move the trigger through second stage
b. move the trigger through second stage
C.move the trigger through second stage
Second stage goes on for a long time (up to 5 seconds)

4.
a. My eyes start to fuzz up
b. If the fuzz is the right kind I continue on the trigger

I don't want the fuzz.
I don't want the unpredictable discharge.
So how can I get my trigger to break sooner without the discharges?
The trigger has never been below 512 grams.

Thanks,
Vin

vin wrote: I'm starting to understand, but now that I fixed the unwanted discharge I have another problem... my shot won't break soon enough. [...] Second stage goes on for a long time (up to 5 seconds). [...]
So how can I get my trigger to break sooner without the discharges?
The trigger has never been below 512 grams.
Thanks,
Vin

To decrease the second stage travel turn that screw (G) clockwise, say max a couple of degrees (that is 2°/360°). If the second stage is still too long, turn that screw (G) clockwise another 2°/360°. And so on. Also check the second stage weight is, say, between 150 grams and 180 grams.

...it happened again.
I didn't adjust anything and it discharged again.

Is it time for a trip to Maine to visit Larry Carter? It's only a 2 1/2 hour drive for you. Call ahead to make sure he'll be in the shop.