TargetTalk

I recently purchased a used TOZ 35 free pistol that had been imported into the U.S. by CDNN. When I "cock/tension" the main spring by moving the "sliding lever" forward, the striker comes forward when I return the "sliding lever" rearward to the closed position about 95% of the time. I think (hope) that this is merely an adjustment problem rather than a repair issue which is going to require shiping the pistol to Pilkguns or another repair facility.

I wondered if someone could walk me through an adjustment which might resolve this issue.

Thaks in advance for your assistance,
Don

This is called "short stroking" this lever must be used in a fairly vigorous motion in order to full y cock the striker. Now this could be self-caused by ejecting the used shell with a "weak" motion (usually the cause.) However it may also be caused by the interior wood of the grip interfering, specially through wood swelling of the grips (possible with unsealed wood). This can be relieved by a judicious (careful) use of " Dremel " to remove some wood on the interior forward part of both sides of the grips. This will allow the lever some more room to offset the "short-stroking." Hope this helps---"Doc"

If you haven't seen it yet, you might want to review this excellent page from our host:

The TenP Files: Toz 35

Take Care,
Ed Hall
Air Force Shooting Homepage
Bullseye (and International) Competition Things

Toz 35 trigger adjustments

Screw 1 Trigger Weight- Turning clockwise increases the weight.

Screw 2 Trigger Position - Loosen screw to rotate the entire trigger unit for side-on finger application onto the "finger pad" - this also allows forward/rearward adjustment of the trigger for longer or shorter reach.

Screw 3 Vertical Position - Loosen to set the height of the trigger.

Screw 4 Sear Engagement - Clockwise decreases the amount of engagement.

Have you tried adjusting Sear, number 4 on the image?

"Have you tried adjusting Sear, number 4 on the image? "

most likely issue...see Pilkington notes,as mentioned

Based on the OP's description, this is clearly not a trigger issue, so the sear adjustment is not involved. Bob (above) probably got it right with his comment about short stroking. That's certainly where I'd look.

HTH,
FredB

Don, these things are complicated, and terminology can be a problem. Do you have the factory 'manual', with an exploded diagram and parts list?

Let's assume you are new to the TOZ, and don't know too much about them. If this is wrong, forgive me, but it's better not to presume...

When you cock the firing mechanism by moving the loading lever forwards, does the extractor snap loudly backwards? If not, and the thing isn't defective, you aren't moving the loading lever far enough forwards.

When does the 'striker' (=firing pin, I assume) 'come forward'? Do you mean that it moves as if striking the cartridge, or does it move smoothly as you move the loading lever back? In other words, did it cock, and then release, or did it fail to cock? In the first case, the loading lever should not be loaded by the mainspring when returning rearwards; in the second, the mainspring will be trying to move the loading lever rearwards. If failing to cock, you may not be moving the lever far enough forwards. Cocking happens only at the extreme limit of loading lever movement.

Another possibility, which may account for both of these behaviours is if the spring which bears on the underside of the sear may be broken or weak. (Part no. 70 in the 'manual' = 'sear spring'). You should be able to see this through the square-ish window in the left side of the frame: a silvery flat spring running from the back face of the breech block, and curling forwards along its underside, visible just behind the back of the loading lever, when the lever is back. Also, having removed the left grip, there's nothing to limit the forward movement of the loading lever. Try it - did that help?

There is no adjustment for sear engagement. The complicated set trigger's function is to kick the sear out of engagement via a little lever lying between the trigger mechanism and the sear (part no. 76, 'sear lever').

Hope all these words help, and that you're still awake.

I had a bullet burst in the chamber, and the force broke part 69, I fabricated a new one, and after installing it, the gun is not operating the same way as before, and it resembles the problem described, as the locking lever part 60 is always under tension now, and has a tendency to snap and lock under the spring tension all by itself, I looked at the schematics and it looks I have put the gun back the right way.
When I try to release the firing pin spring tension, as recommended for storage the lever part 60 stay in tension, but then after I open the chamber feeder the lever stays under tension and doesn't go limp and loose like before.
Thank you for all the suggestions, the ammo bursting was CCI and it doesn't chamber easily and I think the rim got crimped by the cocking mechanism and upon striking the brass was to thin on the bottom of the bullet and it burst a whole on the back of the bullet.

I was able to repair the gun, spring part#70 was not applying enough force to the firing pin spring lock mechanism, bent it a little more towards the firing pin lock and it is working fine, your problem should be solved the same way, unless yours is broken. There are images on this site for solutions on how to make a spare spring part#70 from a paper clip just do a search.
Shooting Kiwi had it right.
Good luck and I hope you get yours running as well.

I would like to thank you all for your advice.

I bought this pistol as a back-up for a TOZ-35 I bought previously from CDNN. So, I was aware of the short stroking problem. The stock was, however, interfering with being able to move the lever fully forward. This had not been immediately clear to me. Once I removed some wood from the inside of the stock, the pistol would reliably cock and hold the firing pin to the rear.

This then raised another problem. Adjustment of "screw 4" in the TenP adjustment file would not cause the pistol to fire, and the side cocking lever would not reliably cock the trigger until "screw 4" was completely removed from the pistol.

Don