trigger assembly for avanti 888 medalist
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
trigger assembly for avanti 888 medalist
Am trying to adjust the trigger. Have read you can take two rings from the trigger springs to improve the action. Has anyone done this? I have the gun apart right now. Alot of parts and at least 3 springs. I am a little nervous about going forward with this without some experienced guidance. Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
There are 2 types of fixes. The one you are talking about is #1 below
#1 by Tom Johnson, you can get the instructions from the CMP in this $2 booklet
https://estore.odcmp.com/store/catalog/ ... ote5=&max=
#2 from the 10P files
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/default.htm
#1 by Tom Johnson, you can get the instructions from the CMP in this $2 booklet
https://estore.odcmp.com/store/catalog/ ... ote5=&max=
#2 from the 10P files
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/default.htm
-
Fatman
Daisy Trigger
Daver 1956:
Do the Pilkington trigger tune - you won't regret it. If you compete you will have to pass a trigger pull test as some point so don't go too light.
I don't compete anymore and I just remove the lower trigger spring altogether (its the small spring between the trigger and the housing).
The remaining rear most spring (the fat one) on the bolt blocking lever acts as a trigger spring as well. Don't know if it will pass a trigger pull test, but by itself, it makes for a light trigger. If you want to go still lighter, you can clip 2 or 3 coils off it as well.
My gun, a 953 (I'm on a budget), with only the rear spring (removed 3 coils) will pass the "bump test" and the "slam home pump the lever test" every time.
I have mine set very short, there is almost no discernable movement before the break and almost no overtravel. It's safe, but it certainly won't pass a trigger pull weight test.
Hope this helps. If you do mess up, Daisy parts are very reasonable and they ship fast.
Cheers,
Fatman
Do the Pilkington trigger tune - you won't regret it. If you compete you will have to pass a trigger pull test as some point so don't go too light.
I don't compete anymore and I just remove the lower trigger spring altogether (its the small spring between the trigger and the housing).
The remaining rear most spring (the fat one) on the bolt blocking lever acts as a trigger spring as well. Don't know if it will pass a trigger pull test, but by itself, it makes for a light trigger. If you want to go still lighter, you can clip 2 or 3 coils off it as well.
My gun, a 953 (I'm on a budget), with only the rear spring (removed 3 coils) will pass the "bump test" and the "slam home pump the lever test" every time.
I have mine set very short, there is almost no discernable movement before the break and almost no overtravel. It's safe, but it certainly won't pass a trigger pull weight test.
Hope this helps. If you do mess up, Daisy parts are very reasonable and they ship fast.
Cheers,
Fatman
Get a couple of extra springs from Daisy, they are CHEAP.
Cut the 2-3 coils off. If it's too light, stretch is a bit. If it's still too light, replace it with another & cut less off. Then carefully stone the contact surface with a fine grit (Akansas hard) or anything that feels like 400 grit wet/dry or finer. Be carrefull to maintain the same angle. If you screw up & the trigger 'goes off when you touch it' redo it be increasing the angle at teh contact edge. Look at it and you will see what I mean. Also, grind about (to start with) 1/32 off of the contacting corner to reduce contact length. Remember, anything you screw up is a very reasonable replacement from Daisy that puts it back to factory. Run it thru bump test's, safety test (to be sure the safety still works) etc. Have fun & PM with any questions.
Shoot True & Often!
Ed
Cut the 2-3 coils off. If it's too light, stretch is a bit. If it's still too light, replace it with another & cut less off. Then carefully stone the contact surface with a fine grit (Akansas hard) or anything that feels like 400 grit wet/dry or finer. Be carrefull to maintain the same angle. If you screw up & the trigger 'goes off when you touch it' redo it be increasing the angle at teh contact edge. Look at it and you will see what I mean. Also, grind about (to start with) 1/32 off of the contacting corner to reduce contact length. Remember, anything you screw up is a very reasonable replacement from Daisy that puts it back to factory. Run it thru bump test's, safety test (to be sure the safety still works) etc. Have fun & PM with any questions.
Shoot True & Often!
Ed
-
Fatman
888 trigger
Daver 1956:
Oops, just reviewed my reply and I goofed (memory just isn't what it used to be).
The small spring I removed (I referred to it as the trigger spring) is acutally the sear spring. It goes between the sear and the housing, not the trigger and the housing.
Hope this doesn't confuse.
Cheers,
Fatman
Oops, just reviewed my reply and I goofed (memory just isn't what it used to be).
The small spring I removed (I referred to it as the trigger spring) is acutally the sear spring. It goes between the sear and the housing, not the trigger and the housing.
Hope this doesn't confuse.
Cheers,
Fatman