IZH-35M
Moderators: pilkguns, m1963, Isabel1130
Depends on condition, has it been shot much, in this case a 35m that has been shot and cleaned, gunk and possible filings wrung out, to me would be more valuable. does it have any up grades? grip, hex drive shroud screws? trigger shoe? scope, xtra mags??? I've seen them as low as 450 and as high as 900. let us know what it has and what the asking price is.
regards, Dave
regards, Dave
You can't buy a new IZH-35 at retail. They haven't been imported to the US for a while now. I'd guess that one that is as-new in its box w/ all the doo-dads would be in the neighborhood of 900, maybe even $1000.
They seem to fetch prices in the mid 600's, used, in decent condition w/ at least 2 mags, when listed on GunBroker.
The mags are scarce and so extras will add to the value.
If you search the b/s/t forum here and Bullseye-L ( http://groups.google.com/group/bullseye-l-archive ), you be able to get an idea of what they're fetching in private sales.
They seem to fetch prices in the mid 600's, used, in decent condition w/ at least 2 mags, when listed on GunBroker.
The mags are scarce and so extras will add to the value.
If you search the b/s/t forum here and Bullseye-L ( http://groups.google.com/group/bullseye-l-archive ), you be able to get an idea of what they're fetching in private sales.
If you want to buy one, my advice is to look around locally first. Prices for 35's have really shot up over the past year or two. But you used to be able to find them for four or five hundred dollars. And I still see them sold for these prices through the clubs that I shoot at locally.
It's when they're listed on sites like GunBroker that the prices really climb.
It's when they're listed on sites like GunBroker that the prices really climb.
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investorsc
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:46 pm
- Location: PA
IZH For Sale
Edited- Gun Sold
Last edited by investorsc on Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PeteL
That's funny, cause he used to sell them and even offered a customized version w/ his own improvements.
The potential issues w/ the 35 are pretty well known at this point. These pistols have been in use for a long while now. Most of the ones with bad metallurgy are probably out of service at this point - but it's a good idea to know what to look for if you're buying a 35.
The potential issues w/ the 35 are pretty well known at this point. These pistols have been in use for a long while now. Most of the ones with bad metallurgy are probably out of service at this point - but it's a good idea to know what to look for if you're buying a 35.
Thats funny because I had one from him that he obviously thought highly enough of to stamp HIS NAME on the bottom of the front rail. He also did trigger work to it and added the hold open piece for the slide. When he was done he Sold it and did not give it away. So I think you know not of what you speak. Oh and Walther seemed to think they were ok as well since they just made them pretty and jacked up the price to be resold as Walthers. They had some issues but one thing I have noticed is that not many guns out there that never have any issues. My 35M worked flawlessly for me while I had it and could outshoot most anyone that picked it up.Rover wrote:Don Nygord didn't think these guns were of high enough quality for him to sell. There are several recent posts on problems with them.
Bo
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Guest
I spoke with Don Nygord about the IZH 35m shortly before he died, I was actually wondering if he had any more lying around that I could purchase.
He indicated that not all of them had equal manufacturing tolerences, and said that they weren't generally worth the amount of time it took him to "tweak" them. Some were better than others but there was no rhyme or reason. If you happened to get a "good one", Don said they were an absolute delight. He dropped the IZH from his lineup because he didn't want any disappointed customers -- there just wasn't consistency in their base product and the customization took too long and wasn't always 100% successful.
He strongly suggested I consider the Pardini, which at the time was around $950 if my recollection is correct. His exact words were "you get what you pay for".
He indicated that not all of them had equal manufacturing tolerences, and said that they weren't generally worth the amount of time it took him to "tweak" them. Some were better than others but there was no rhyme or reason. If you happened to get a "good one", Don said they were an absolute delight. He dropped the IZH from his lineup because he didn't want any disappointed customers -- there just wasn't consistency in their base product and the customization took too long and wasn't always 100% successful.
He strongly suggested I consider the Pardini, which at the time was around $950 if my recollection is correct. His exact words were "you get what you pay for".
As I said before, I must have gotten a good one. However, I did do some "stuff" to it but I tinker with just about every gun that I own.
I took it apart and polished the sear as well as the top of the bolt where the hammer rides during recoil as well as the face of the hammer.
I tried adjusting all of the slack out of the trigger but, if memory serves, it wouldn't fire or maybe the trigger wouldn't reset. That was a while back so my memories are fading.
I also replaced all of the slotted screws with metric Phillips head screws. I would have like Allen head or Torx but they weren't readily available at the time. The new screws were galvanized so I soaked them in CLR to get the zinc off and then used cold bluing. Looks good to me. Maybe I'll go looking for Torx screws.
I got mine shortly after CDNN started advertising them which was 2000 or 2001. As I recall the price was about $350 which didn't make it much more expensive than a Ruger but a lot less than a Pardini.
The stock grips got a lot of criticism because they didn't fit everyone's hand. Except for a set of custom Fung grips, I've never had a grip that I didn't have to tweak with sandpaper and an X-Acto knife. A bit of sanding, a touch of wood filler, and a bit of skateboard tape and the girps are perfect for me.
The pistol shoots far better than I can but using it bumped me from Expert to Master in short order.
If I had it to do over again, I'd buy extra magazines. I didn't at the time because I figured that replacement mags would be around.
I've seen IZH-35Ms going for around a grand on online auctions. I don't know if I'd pay that for one, expecially if it didn't have extra magainze.
I took it apart and polished the sear as well as the top of the bolt where the hammer rides during recoil as well as the face of the hammer.
I tried adjusting all of the slack out of the trigger but, if memory serves, it wouldn't fire or maybe the trigger wouldn't reset. That was a while back so my memories are fading.
I also replaced all of the slotted screws with metric Phillips head screws. I would have like Allen head or Torx but they weren't readily available at the time. The new screws were galvanized so I soaked them in CLR to get the zinc off and then used cold bluing. Looks good to me. Maybe I'll go looking for Torx screws.
I got mine shortly after CDNN started advertising them which was 2000 or 2001. As I recall the price was about $350 which didn't make it much more expensive than a Ruger but a lot less than a Pardini.
The stock grips got a lot of criticism because they didn't fit everyone's hand. Except for a set of custom Fung grips, I've never had a grip that I didn't have to tweak with sandpaper and an X-Acto knife. A bit of sanding, a touch of wood filler, and a bit of skateboard tape and the girps are perfect for me.
The pistol shoots far better than I can but using it bumped me from Expert to Master in short order.
If I had it to do over again, I'd buy extra magazines. I didn't at the time because I figured that replacement mags would be around.
I've seen IZH-35Ms going for around a grand on online auctions. I don't know if I'd pay that for one, expecially if it didn't have extra magainze.
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Guest
Bought mine nearly new, for $400 with 2 mags, last year.
The best fix I did was to get under the extractor with a needle file and make a little more room between it and the breech face. Couldn't figure out how to remove the extractor to file it, so this was the only remedy that seemed to make sense. Worked carefully as to not touch the breech, only the underside of the extractor. Also reshaped the extractor nose to be less pointed, and rounded the inside surface to resemble a 1911.
This solved all the previous problems including feeding and slam fire. Simple fix and I wonder why nobody has posted this before. Worked perfectly.
The best fix I did was to get under the extractor with a needle file and make a little more room between it and the breech face. Couldn't figure out how to remove the extractor to file it, so this was the only remedy that seemed to make sense. Worked carefully as to not touch the breech, only the underside of the extractor. Also reshaped the extractor nose to be less pointed, and rounded the inside surface to resemble a 1911.
This solved all the previous problems including feeding and slam fire. Simple fix and I wonder why nobody has posted this before. Worked perfectly.
I bought my IZH-35m in late 2002. I have enjoyed shooting it, which I don't get to do enough. I did quite a bit of research before I bought it, and I was ready for minor issues. I was disappointed when mine did not come with the spare parts kit, even more so now. I adjusted the trigger to my liking, which ended up disabling the grip safety. I installed hex head screws in the shroud and grip, ending the loose screw problem. Funny thing is, the screws are only there so that a scope mount can be placed on the shroud. Baikal's website shows the IZH-35m with no screws. The pistol has had on and off issues with doubling or going full auto. Ammo is the biggest problem, Federal 711B is unuseable. A while back, after reading some posts here, I looked at the breechface under a magnifier and saw that some metal had been peened into the rim recess. After cleanup with an X-acto knife I have not had any doubling issues after about 200 rounds. The best part of owning the pistol has been making it mine by fitting the grip. I had never done this before, so slow and easy over a few evenings resulted in a grip that is workable. It has been said that the stock grip has too much wood in some places and not enough in others. Cutting the finger recesses went nearly through to the frame. I stippled the grip with a pick and great care. I would like to see the pistol brought into the US again. I paid $425 for mine and consider it money well spent.
BTW, when I was working on the pistol a local supplier set me up with 100 count boxes of the socket head screws for the shroud and grips. If anyone is in dire need of these screws, drop me a line.
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BTW, when I was working on the pistol a local supplier set me up with 100 count boxes of the socket head screws for the shroud and grips. If anyone is in dire need of these screws, drop me a line.
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Someplace I saw a picture of an IZH-35M with a frame mounted scope mount. I thought that was interesting.Tzed250 wrote:]Funny thing is, the screws are only there so that a scope mount can be placed on the shroud. Baikal's website shows the IZH-35m with no screws.
I wish that I could find that picture again.
I have an IZH 35M that gets about 700 rounds a year in informal target practice. I've had the pistol for 7 years and it has been terrific. Mostly as a interlude to shooting strings of 1911 .45 and to give my Hamden High Standard 106 a break.
I have had no problems with feeding or doubling. I adjusted the trigger weight according to the manual to the lightest setting and it is really beautiful. From a rested position the pistol is terrific at 25yrds with CCI SV. Green Tag and Wolf Match Target are only slightly better from a rest, so I stay with the budget CCI. Offhand it is really stable, especially in rapid fire.
I would be interested in purchasing some of the hex head screws for the shroud and grips! Please PM me with the particulars.
I am disappointed that the gun is no longer made/imported. I see that EAA still has parts listed on the web site. Can anyone suggest a list of parts that have worn on their pistols. I would like to pick up a stock of some spares before these too disappear. I am assuming that firing pin, firing pin spring and recoil spring would be good ones to get. What else beyond that?
I will be traveling to Izevsk (where the pistol was made) in September to teach for a week. I am asking my hosts to check around and see if they can speak with people at the factory to see if there are spare parts sitting around for me to buy.
DOC
I have had no problems with feeding or doubling. I adjusted the trigger weight according to the manual to the lightest setting and it is really beautiful. From a rested position the pistol is terrific at 25yrds with CCI SV. Green Tag and Wolf Match Target are only slightly better from a rest, so I stay with the budget CCI. Offhand it is really stable, especially in rapid fire.
I would be interested in purchasing some of the hex head screws for the shroud and grips! Please PM me with the particulars.
I am disappointed that the gun is no longer made/imported. I see that EAA still has parts listed on the web site. Can anyone suggest a list of parts that have worn on their pistols. I would like to pick up a stock of some spares before these too disappear. I am assuming that firing pin, firing pin spring and recoil spring would be good ones to get. What else beyond that?
I will be traveling to Izevsk (where the pistol was made) in September to teach for a week. I am asking my hosts to check around and see if they can speak with people at the factory to see if there are spare parts sitting around for me to buy.
DOC
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JamesH as guest