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Lights in a 10 m range

Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 8:32 pm
by jacques b gros
My club is redoing the lights in the 10m range, and I made some tests with a lux meter using fluorescent lamps to light the targets.

Found out that I could use a line of HO lamps at the same distance the incandescent bulbs are and get the required level of lux. Big question:

Is this solution used anywhere in the decent quality ranges? I've no experience abroad, and could not find any photos of a range using this system. (maybe this is my answer...)

One possible problem is that the space 'tween targets will have the same amount of light as the target itself. Is this a problem? Painting the space in a dark dull color would help?

Any ideas?

Thanks

Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 9:39 pm
by Rover
We're doing it that way at Phoenix Rod & Gun Club. No complaints in many years. The NRA Referee had no comments either.

We ain't fancy, though.

Re: Lights in a 10 m range

Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 10:45 pm
by zollman
jacques b gros wrote: One possible problem is that the space 'tween targets will have the same amount of light as the target itself. Is this a problem? Painting the space in a dark dull color would help?
Our 10M range has a nice beige berber carpet, floor to ceiling, as the background. It's medium/neutral color per NRA regs, and "a non-reflecting, light even neutral color" per ISSF reg 6.3.17.1. Plus, it adds some sound proofing. The good thing is that unless you plan on setting a world record, or hosting a world cup, you are okay. If someone doesn't like the look of it, they can turn around and walk away and shoot somewhere else. That's why it's a good idea to look at the range before you pay to play.

I've shot on venues that ranged from overall dark with good, direct light on each target, ranges with high ceilings, bright white walls and indirect flourescent lighting, and ranges that were a perfect combination of both. Since I enjoy shooting so much, I didn't notice much of a difference in any of them. Adjust your sights and your glasses so you can see what your doing, and deliver your shots as planned.

zollman

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 1:40 am
by RobStubbs
If you really have the same light around the targets as on them, then I'd suspect that's too bright. I doubt however it could be that bright, you won't for example have the lamps pointing directly sideways at the walls. Slighter darker, non reflective, side walls would help keep the required contrast between targets and 'the rest'.

Rob.

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:29 am
by David Levene
A club I used to shoot at used 2 rows of fluorescent tubes running across the range. They were staggered slightly to avoid "cold spots" at the end caps.

The result was an evenly lit set of targets, much better than individual target lamps.

I can think of nothing in the rules to prevent it.

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:33 am
by David Levene
RobStubbs wrote:If you really have the same light around the targets as on them, then I'd suspect that's too bright. I doubt however it could be that bright, you won't for example have the lamps pointing directly sideways at the walls.
I think the idea is that you have a continuous line of flourescent tubes running across the range, so everything is lit to the same level.

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:59 am
by jipe
I think that fluorescent lighting is a problem for some velocity measurement devices ?

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:29 am
by David Levene
jipe wrote:I think that fluorescent lighting is a problem for some velocity measurement devices ?
Scatt sometimes has a problem with fluorescents.

Most chronos would normally be at the firing point end of the range. I can't remember ever seeing anyone measuring the pellet velocity at the targets on a 10m range (but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen).

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:34 am
by jacques b gros
Thank you all for the trouble.

As for the problem of the chrono under fluorescent lights, all we have to do is go to one of the open air lines and use it there.

Will paint the walls a sand color to avoid glare. The walls are not very refletive due to the coarse plaster finishing, and the floor is gravel. Damm cheap range...but it works.

Thank ye all