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My LP10 cocking lever keep popping up

Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:04 am
by seamaster
I have problem with my Steyr LP10.

The cocking lever keep popping up into the dry fire position. I would close the lever into the fire position, but then it would pop back up into the dry fire position.

Is it a problem with "cam" (I don't know what the function of this cam is}, but this cam would not stay down after cocking the lever.

When I take out the spring coil below the cam, cam no longer forcing pellet loading lever up.

What seem to the problem? Can I shoot with spring coil taken off beneath the cam?

Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 3:43 am
by Denis
You may have a problem with the barrel position.
The 2 screws in top forward part of action housing hold the barrel in place.
They have different hole centers, and undoing one/doing the other up adjust the position (forward/aft) of the barrel.
This in turn adjusts the pressure of the boltface against the barrel.

Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 5:47 am
by Seamaster
Those two holes on the barrel are pre-drilled on the barrel from the factory, why should I align against those two pre-drilled marks on the barrel?

I have taken the barrel off. The cocking lever still is popping off into the dry fire position from the fire position, even when there is no barrel to juxtoposition against.

I think the problem is the "cam". Is the cam suppose to lock or not?

Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:15 pm
by seamaster
Den, you are correct in your diagnosis. I had tighten the two screws in wrong sequence. Once I tighten the proximal screw, then the distal screw, barrel is locked into a lower position. The cocking pellet loader now comes into solid contact with the lower barrel. The cocking lever does not pop up any more.

Thanks.

Posted: Sun May 24, 2009 4:17 am
by Denis
Glad to help.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 8:31 am
by Seamaster
My problem came after disassembled the LP10 barrel for cleaning.

I had problem closing the cocking lever.

I noticed the two drilled holes on barrel do NOT line up centered with those two top screws.

There must be a reason for this.

Just like you mentioned earlier they are off center to allow upping or downing the barrel face to allow solid closure against cocking lever occlusion face.

Now, which screw should I line up first? The front screw or the back screw? Or don't align those holes with those two screw at all?

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 9:00 am
by David Levene
Seamaster wrote:Now, which screw should I line up first? The front screw or the back screw? Or don't align those holes with those two screw at all?
As I understand it, presuming it's the same as on the LP5, it is extremely unlikely that either of the holes will be lined up. You certainly wouldn't want to start off with them lined up as that would fix the for/aft position of the barrel, and that would be defeating the object of them being at different centres.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 12:53 pm
by D. Schraubermann
Align and tighten the screw proximal to the breach first, but do not torque it. Close the bolt and note the tension. If too tight, loosen same screw 1/8 turn and re-close bolt. When satisfied, tighten screw distal to breach but do not fully torque. tighten proximal screw to torgue specs and then tighten distal screw to torque specs.

good luck,

D. Schraubermann

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:13 pm
by Seamaster
Tighten screws while cocking lever is down/closed or up/loose?

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 3:31 pm
by Denis
Seamaster wrote:Tighten screws while cocking lever is down/closed or up/loose?
Probably better to do with it open, after you have done preliminary setup with it closed.
You need to achieve the right amount of crush on the boltface O ring.
You want it just tight enough that you stop leakage past the O ring.
Check this with a small piece of lightweight paper (shaped into a curve) over the boltface/barrel area.
If it pops off when firing, air is leaking past the O ring.