TargetTalk

A few months ago I was fortunate to pick up an unfired S&W Model 14-3 single action only revolver.

It is beautifully finished, a phenomenal shooter and has a trigger to die for.

However, it disgraces itself by leaving baked-on powder residue in the cylinder flutes that is almost impossible to remove.

I've tried -
Toothbrush with solvent
Powder Blast
Rubbing with a cloth soaked in solvent etc

and the residue is still there !

Any hints, tips & tricks to quickly removing it without removing the blueing?

Thanks..

What solvent are you using?
I'm using Hoppes Elite gun cleaner and it works a treat on powder residue.

I like Hoppe's Elite, too. After applying, you need to let it set a few minutes to work. Then use a toothbrush. Once the metal is squeaky clean, the Hoppe's Elite leaves a microscopic film which keeps carbon from sticking so badly.

Leon wrote:.... baked-on powder residue in the cylinder flutes that is almost impossible to remove...

This usually raises a few eyebrows, but the product I've found to remove carbon and lead better than any of the 'gun solvents' is Simple Green household cleaner http://tinyurl.com/5j2os7 . It will remove the vaporized-lead rings from the cylinder face, and even loosen the lead splash around the forcing cone and under the top strap. You'll still need some elbow action and the tooth brush, but the lead will come off. Using Simple green in an ultrasonic cleaner will produce a spotless firearm without the scrubbing. It is a water based cleaner, so rinse it off with hot water, dry the parts and immediately apply oil as you would do if it were a blackpowder firearm.

Aus Guest wrote:What solvent are you using?
I'm using Hoppes Elite gun cleaner and it works a treat on powder residue.

I've tried Shooters Choice, Barnes CR9 and Gunzilla ( self-titled as' the best solvent in the world' It's not ! )

None of them have been successful in removing the powder residue - which is 'baked-on' or carbonized.

I guess I'll try Hoppes Elite and see what happens

Use a new pencil eraser dipped in Hoppe's #9. Works great for me.

Leon wrote: However, it disgraces itself by leaving baked-on powder residue in the cylinder flutes that is almost impossible to remove.

I've tried -
Toothbrush with solvent
Powder Blast
Rubbing with a cloth soaked in solvent etc

and the residue is still there !

I remove powder residu from my Ruger stainless revolvers, using Hoppes (?) yellow impregnated lead-removal cloth. Some rubbing, but residue gets removed.

[/quote]

I remove powder residu from my Ruger stainless revolvers, using Hoppes (?) yellow impregnated lead-removal cloth. Some rubbing, but residue gets removed.[/quote]

Have used the same cloth myself on stainless firearms. If you read the packaging it states may remove blueing. I'm not keen on discovering how hard I can rub before I start removing the blueing

Simple green is good for removing organic material, I use it to oxygen clean (i.e make suitable for use in HP oxygen) diving regulators. Just dump it in an ultrasonic bath and you're laughing. Comes out squeaky clean. However, you do need to make sure you dry it all after! Might be worth a try, although I have never used it on gun parts.

It might not be powder residue but lead residue you have on the cylinder flutes. I had to scrape it off of my gun but I didn't get any visible scratches as I used a bronze bore brush. If your gun is in mint condition I would go with a lead-removing chemical first.

[quote="Anonymous"]It might not be powder residue but lead residue you have on the cylinder flutes.quote]

It is lead, and Simple Green removed it completely from my revolvers with a nylon brush. Lead solvents appear to do nothing unless assisted by a metal brush.