I have a Daisy 888 that seems to rip up the seals on the CO2 cylinders. I've tried two different cylinders with the same results. I have to replace the seals after every two or three fills.
Is this normal for these guns?
Daisy 888 Seals
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
The main cause of riping seals that I have found is failure to tighten cylinder all the way before turning it the other way. You must always fully tighten or fully loosen the cylinder, you can't go "back and/or forth" in small increments. You also need a small amount of the appropriate lube on the seal.
I used to use a very light gun oil on the o-rings, but they seem to absorb this and stretch way too much. (they turn bright white too) You are right, after about 2-3 times they were toast.
I now use a few drops of the Beeman's MP-5 "metalophilic" (I think that's right) oil on a paper towl and use this to clean and wipe the o-rings before filling and installation. It is rare now that I have a failure ... maybe one every other week or so. I constantly fill, three times per week, between 15 and 20 cylinders for each practice session. This also keep the threads of the cylinders pretty clean.
http://www.airgunsus.com/desc/bee9205.html
I get mine at Sportsmans Warehouse in town
About every month or so I'll place some cleaning felts in a pellet tin and put a few drops of this oil in as well, and fire a few of these thru the bores to clean them up some .... followed by 3-4 clean dry felts is all the cleaning I do for the barrels. It only takes about 4-5 drops in a tin with about 40 felts .... I cover the tin and let is set a few days with the felts in there so that the oil is pretty well evenly absorbed.
I've used 2 of these bottles in the past 2-1/2 years so it goes pretty far
I now use a few drops of the Beeman's MP-5 "metalophilic" (I think that's right) oil on a paper towl and use this to clean and wipe the o-rings before filling and installation. It is rare now that I have a failure ... maybe one every other week or so. I constantly fill, three times per week, between 15 and 20 cylinders for each practice session. This also keep the threads of the cylinders pretty clean.
http://www.airgunsus.com/desc/bee9205.html
I get mine at Sportsmans Warehouse in town
About every month or so I'll place some cleaning felts in a pellet tin and put a few drops of this oil in as well, and fire a few of these thru the bores to clean them up some .... followed by 3-4 clean dry felts is all the cleaning I do for the barrels. It only takes about 4-5 drops in a tin with about 40 felts .... I cover the tin and let is set a few days with the felts in there so that the oil is pretty well evenly absorbed.
I've used 2 of these bottles in the past 2-1/2 years so it goes pretty far
We have two 888s beside a bunch of XS 40s.
I have had the best results from using silicon spray. I spray the o-ring before I fill the cylinder, I then spray the 0-ring before I re-install the cylinder. I have not switched out 0-rings since the season began in early fall.
One of these 888 was an early production unit that cut the 0-ring the first time I install the filled cylinder. I sent it back to Daisy to have the mating units honed. That didn't help. Daisy recommended using a lot of oil. It didn't help. I was replacing o-rings often until I tried silicon spray. I use silicon on all the air fittings.
I have discoved I get the best fills by cracking open the CO2 cylinder quickly for a second or two then closing the valve. Holding the valve open for very long seems to let the liquid CO2 return back to the bulk tank. I am using a five pound tank with the Daisy fill adapter threaded direction on to the tank minus the hose. I do use a scale.
I have had the best results from using silicon spray. I spray the o-ring before I fill the cylinder, I then spray the 0-ring before I re-install the cylinder. I have not switched out 0-rings since the season began in early fall.
One of these 888 was an early production unit that cut the 0-ring the first time I install the filled cylinder. I sent it back to Daisy to have the mating units honed. That didn't help. Daisy recommended using a lot of oil. It didn't help. I was replacing o-rings often until I tried silicon spray. I use silicon on all the air fittings.
I have discoved I get the best fills by cracking open the CO2 cylinder quickly for a second or two then closing the valve. Holding the valve open for very long seems to let the liquid CO2 return back to the bulk tank. I am using a five pound tank with the Daisy fill adapter threaded direction on to the tank minus the hose. I do use a scale.