TargetTalk

Does anybody know if you can salvage pellets that have started to oxidize?

I have some cans of pellets that where given to me by a friend a couple of the cans look like the lead pellets have oxidized. I don't think it is the lubricant that has dried up. I am not considering using them in there current state in that the oxidized lead surface would act like a fine sand paper.

I believe Don Nygord also recommended against shooting oxidized pellets because of the abrasive factor.

I have tried two approaches:

Put them in a large pot (that you DON'T cook from) with some dishwashing detergent and boil them for 5 minutes or so. Dishwashing detergent doesn't create suds and is strong enough to wash away any grime and loose oxide. Dry them on paper towel in the sun, or in an oven on LOW heat. Use an old toaster oven that you don't cook from; not the Miele in the kitchen!

Once they are dry (or as the simpler approach if they are less oxidized) spray some oil onto a rag (Inox or similar), tip the pellets on the rag and give them a gentle shake-and-roll.

Interestingly, I have tried boiling/oiling new pellets for my .22 cal air rifle and found that group sizes decreased by about 5%. I’ve never tried it with .177 pellets for my air pistol to see if it improved accuracy, as I found a weight/diameter combo that already shot well.

You might try a tumbler, of the type that is used to clean fired cartridge cases, together with corncob or ground walnut media. Don't know if it will work with lead, but my brass cases always come out shiny and clean.

Fred

Fred Mannis wrote:You might try a tumbler, of the type that is used to clean fired cartridge cases, together with corncob or ground walnut media. Don't know if it will work with lead, but my brass cases always come out shiny and clean.

Fred

I thought about using a tumbler, but I would have to use one where the media was brand new and the tumber itself would have to be clean. If I don't do this then all the grit and fowling from the cases and bullets that I cleaned in the tumbler will get on the pellets, which is just as bad as the oxidized lead. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

Sounds intriguing I will give it a try.

CROB wrote:I believe Don Nygord also recommended against shooting oxidized pellets because of the abrasive factor.

I have tried two approaches:

Put them in a large pot (that you DON'T cook from) with some dishwashing detergent and boil them for 5 minutes or so. Dishwashing detergent doesn't create suds and is strong enough to wash away any grime and loose oxide. Dry them on paper towel in the sun, or in an oven on LOW heat. Use an old toaster oven that you don't cook from; not the Miele in the kitchen!

Once they are dry (or as the simpler approach if they are less oxidized) spray some oil onto a rag (Inox or similar), tip the pellets on the rag and give them a gentle shake-and-roll.

Interestingly, I have tried boiling/oiling new pellets for my .22 cal air rifle and found that group sizes decreased by about 5%. I’ve never tried it with .177 pellets for my air pistol to see if it improved accuracy, as I found a weight/diameter combo that already shot well.

Pellets always oxidise - that's why they go dull once a new can has been opened. Lead oxide is nowhere near as hard as a steel barrel so don't worry about it. If you are that worried then throw them out. As the previous poster mentioned it's not like they are expensive or anything. I most certainly would not consider washing and tumbling them. You will do more harm getting bits of cloth fibre or other debri into the gas seals on your gun.

Rob.

Field Target (http://www.aafta.org) shooters that use Crosman Premier Heavy pellets all wash them and then re-lubricate them. The washing (soap and water or kerosene) is necessary because these pellets are filthy. Re-lubrication is necessary because the clean lead will oxidize (Krytech, 1-Lube, etc are popular) unless recoated.

Virtually all other pellets are clean enough that the above treatment is not needed. Target shooters are not shooting at 900fps or higher (faster means more leading, usually). That said, I do use Krytech (a Teflon lube) on my AP pellets simply to reduce the need to clean the barrel.

If you do lubricate, it only takes a few drops for 500 pellets. I put them into a large tin (500 .177s into a 500 .22 tin), put a few drops on the lid, tumble, and shoot.

Best,

Joe[/url]

Based on the following article, I would be very concerned about using oxided pellets.

http://www.physics.umd.edu/spg/PbScienc ... 0of%20lead'

This is a long technical article

Part of this article discribes the orientation of the oxided strata of the lead (Pb = Lead in the periodic table).

It goes on to state that these crystaline (read HARD) structures develope "SHARP" edges. The normal lead structure is a rounded edge.

It also goes on to describe that melting the lead will reform the structure to have rounded edges.

With this in mind, I do not believe that any amount of washing or lubrication will "FIX" a pellet that has oxidated.

Also, basically, when a compound oxidizes, it does change. There is a reduction in the overall mass and shape of the item. With this in mind, I would definitly NEVER use the pellets for anything. They would be suspect as to the consistancy that you could expect as well as suspect as to the effect on the gun you are shooting.

In my opinion, Do not waste your time and money.

Just my 2 cents.

Peter

Elmas wrote: Modern Competition airpistols and rifles are very expensive weapons... Luckily , .177 airgun pellets remain r e l a t i v e l y cheap , even the HN Final Match grade !

Why use 'reconditioned' pellets in your $ 1000 plus gun ?

If you would like to recondition your oxidized pellets as a challenge, then perhaps after making them 'useable' give them to some kid with an inexpensive plinker... and spare your Anschutz the risk .

I must agree, modern competition airpistols and rifles are too expensive to use as weapons - swinging them at somebody's head would probably knock the sights out of adjustment for a start, and a lump of firewood would be probably more effective...

gvmnt45 wrote:
It goes on to state that these crystaline (read HARD) structures develope "SHARP" edges. The normal lead structure is a rounded edge.

Crystal structure and hardness are totally unrelated properties of minerals. Talc and calcite are both crystals, yet are very soft (1 and 2 on the Mohs hardness scale). Pure lead has a hardness of 1.5 - simple lead oxide (PbO2) is harder, around 5. Different steels have different hardnesses, with a range of about 5 to about 8 or so. I suspect that steel used for gun barrels, even air gun barrels, is toward the harder end of that range so it's unlikely that oxidized lead pellets will scratch it.

All that said, I agree with those who feel it just doesn't make any sense to jeopardize a very expensive piece of precision equipment to salvage a few bucks worth of an item that's readily available..

OK Guest,
You don't have to be a smarty regarding the use of the word "Weapon" by Elmas.
You might be interested to know that in a lot of countries an air pistol or air rifle is regarded as a weapon just the same as any other firearm. I need the same licence to use a weak-springed air pistol from the 1950s as I would require to run a modern 44 magnum.
It all comes down to the designation of a firearm and in Australia air pistols are firearms.
Don't worry Elmas, the Guest didn't even know how to log on.

Regarding the oxidisation of pellets. I have never seen it happen. I shoot a match a week and a tin doesn't have enough time to start to oxidise. For those who shoot less frequently, I suggest you do not store lead in wooden cabinets because they will oxidise more quickly from the chemicals coming out of wood. I did have a Post for this information but have lost it. Now relying on information from a neighboring bullet collecter who has thousands stored in steel cabinets.

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I must agree, modern competition airpistols and rifles are too expensive to use as weapons - swinging them at somebody's head would probably knock the sights out of adjustment for a start, and a lump of firewood would be probably more effective...

Joking aside.... They are weapons... they can cause serious injury.. and shooters should be well versed in the 'second nature' safety habits when handling and using these " weapons " .... I am sure those who started off shooting centerfire and rimfire pistols and rifles... then moved to airguns , treat the airguns with equal respect and awareness....
Anyone whose approach to airguns is that they are not 'weapons' ( firearms of a sort ) are likely to do someone harm.

I would also be worried about oxide dust getting into the transfer port at the entrance to the barrel (FWB P34 for instance). I was at a comp in Bedfordshire and a fellow rifle shooter went through a 45 minute elaborate preparation routine, including stretches and deep concentration. He then proceeded to load his beautiful Steyr with the dirtiest grayest tin of pellets I ever saw. No pellet tray, no sorting or grading, just picked out of a dirty tin. He still got 9's and 10's though! I must say that using best quality pre-lubricated pellets like Finale Match I have never had any oxidation or swarf.