Hoping someone can help. After trying to adjust the trigger on my LP10 to shift a liitle more weight to Ist stage and reduce weight from 2nd stage, I now cannot get the tigger mechanism to reset. In pulling the lever back, it just won't catch or, if it does, it won't reset consistently. I have tried to methodically work through this with no success. I have not touched the factory setting for the sear adjustment screw. Now at a loss as how to proceed. Can someone please assist?
Dennis Lindenbaum
Steyr Trigger Adjustment
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Ernie Rodriguez
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- Location: Tennessee
LP-10 Adjustment
Hi Dennis-Is it possible that there is some interaction with the sear engagement?If the sear is still not resetting-why don't you adjust the sear adj screw for added sear engagement(more sear surface) do it very carefully and record the amount of turns.If it does reset,adj the trigger pull to your satisfaction and then reset sear adj screw for reliable functioning.Then adj the trigger stop screw.Hope this helps.Ernie P.S. I think that the second stage shouldn't be too light because that pressure has a relation to the reliable functioning of sear engagement-reseting.
Last edited by Ernie Rodriguez on Wed Dec 28, 2005 8:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Fred Mannis
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Mark Briggs
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LP-10's have difficulty shedding weight on the 2nd stage. There are "experts" who will argue black and blue that this isn't the case, but it truly is the case. Mine wouldn't get below about 250 grams on the 2nd stage. Although the parts list shows the LP1 and LP10 have exactly the same parts installed in their triggers, the geometry in which they're installed is quite different between these two pistols. The result is that the LP1 is capable of a very light 2nd stage, while the LP10 often is not.
There are a couple of places where the LP10 trigger can take some work in order to improve it. The first place is the 2nd stage pressure spring. By cutting 0.080" off its length you will be able to reduce the pressure it applies to the trigger action to zero. This does NOT equate to zero grams of weight on the 2nd stage.
The second area which can be worked on is the polishing/buffing of all mating surfaces between the trigger parts, including the sear. This is work that should only be attempted by an accomplished pistolsmith. Once polished the trigger will be much smoother and the 2nd stage weight will be reduced somewhat.
There's little to no need to mess with sear engagement - doing so will likely not achieve the desired effect and in fact will likely end up getting you into trouble.
Oh, by the way, when you're loosening off the 2nd stage adjustment screw by turning it counterclockwise (and the 1st stage adjustment screw as well) keep in mind that when they stop turning counterclockwise they will go no further. Forcing them further will only result in a broken screw. This is because the screws have a large bulb on their tip and it's against this bulb that the tension springs rest. When the trigger is assembled these screws are inserted from what effectively is the inside of the pistol, then backed out a few turns, then the tension springs are installed on top of them. It is because of this design that these two screws are NOT removeable from outside the pistol. The only way they'll come out is by full disassembly of the trigger, and once the internal parts are removed from the pistol the adjustment screws may be removed by turning them fully in the clockwise direction.
In the end I was able to get my LP10 2nd stage down to something like 150 grams, which made the trigger useable. But it still couldn't hold a candle to my LP1 which can be adjusted to less than 50 grams on the 2nd stage.
Hope this info helps... I've answered this question several times on this board so if you do a search you'll find some of my previous answers which may include a clearer explanation.
There are a couple of places where the LP10 trigger can take some work in order to improve it. The first place is the 2nd stage pressure spring. By cutting 0.080" off its length you will be able to reduce the pressure it applies to the trigger action to zero. This does NOT equate to zero grams of weight on the 2nd stage.
The second area which can be worked on is the polishing/buffing of all mating surfaces between the trigger parts, including the sear. This is work that should only be attempted by an accomplished pistolsmith. Once polished the trigger will be much smoother and the 2nd stage weight will be reduced somewhat.
There's little to no need to mess with sear engagement - doing so will likely not achieve the desired effect and in fact will likely end up getting you into trouble.
Oh, by the way, when you're loosening off the 2nd stage adjustment screw by turning it counterclockwise (and the 1st stage adjustment screw as well) keep in mind that when they stop turning counterclockwise they will go no further. Forcing them further will only result in a broken screw. This is because the screws have a large bulb on their tip and it's against this bulb that the tension springs rest. When the trigger is assembled these screws are inserted from what effectively is the inside of the pistol, then backed out a few turns, then the tension springs are installed on top of them. It is because of this design that these two screws are NOT removeable from outside the pistol. The only way they'll come out is by full disassembly of the trigger, and once the internal parts are removed from the pistol the adjustment screws may be removed by turning them fully in the clockwise direction.
In the end I was able to get my LP10 2nd stage down to something like 150 grams, which made the trigger useable. But it still couldn't hold a candle to my LP1 which can be adjusted to less than 50 grams on the 2nd stage.
Hope this info helps... I've answered this question several times on this board so if you do a search you'll find some of my previous answers which may include a clearer explanation.