TargetTalk

-TT- wrote: ↑Mon Feb 22, 2021 8:41 pm Personally I'd look for a top notch precision welder and attempt to repair the part. No way would I attempt to epoxy something around the break.

When the part is together, I'd adjust your piston pusher inward enough so there was no chance the compression stroke is bottoming out. A dozen or two fps makes zero difference in performance to this pistol. Mine came detuned to heaven-knows-what spec (AV doesn't say) but apart from tearing ugly holes in low quality paper, it puts them there beautifully. I'll dial it up eventually maybe.

#51 breaks on factory adjusted pistols that don't bottom out.

What do you think of the idea of welding them together? Would welding take the cocking/ compression pressure?

I know very little about welding, so I can't say. If I was pressed to come up with that part, I would find a flat piece of metal of the same thickness, drill two holes of correct distance appart and using cutting tools, grinders and dremel finished the profile around them. Very time consuming and PITA, but doable. It's not a hard part to fabricate for anyone who has a machine shop and experience. If you know anyone.

Lenny wrote: ↑Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:06 am I know very little about welding, so I can't say. If I was pressed to come up with that part, I would find a flat piece of metal of the same thickness, drill two holes of correct distance appart and using cutting tools, grinders and dremel finished the profile around them. Very time consuming and PITA, but doable. It's not a hard part to fabricate for anyone who has a machine shop and experience. If you know anyone.

I agree, and an EDM shop could cut one in a jiffy. The hard part will be creating the template file to send them.

Most gunsmiths will know local EDM people, maybe drop by yours with some coffee and donuts or something. ;)

-TT- wrote: ↑Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:18 am
I agree, and an EDM shop could cut one in a jiffy. The hard part will be creating the template file to send them.

Most gunsmiths will know local EDM people, maybe drop by yours with some coffee and donuts or something. ;)

One could make some money on this as well by fabricating a bunch of 51's, which will reduce the cost. Keep a few spares and put the rest on ebay.
There is a market for them, at least for now. My spare IZH-46M sits disassembled for two years, awaiting this part. I don't know anyone in that field of work and I never used a gunsmith. I do all smithing myself.

The moral of the story, folks, if you shoot a 7, don't take it out on your IZH-47M by aggressively snapping the lever. This comes naturally and hard to resist. Remember, these pistols have a long memory and will get back at you someday.

BTW, the rivet/pin #53 needed for replacement of #51 was still available from EAA two years ago. They might still have them.

The "rivets" (pins) required are pretty simple to make on a lathe. You want to use soft steel so the ends flare out easily. I made a couple using "O1" 5 mm drill rod stock (annealed). I flared the ends using 6mm ball bearings.

Back in business.

#51 welded back together by a friend who makes STOP signs for the city.

I have to say it is probably as good as new.

Was able to shoot 470 FPS like normal 46M, but for the sake of protecting that “ORIF” broken elbow, decreased velocity down to 410 FPS, just like original 46 non-magnum. Shoots Kruger paper with perfect holes at that speed.

Cocks smoothly with little effort, I know this welded broken elbow will provide years of more joy.

So lesson of this broken elbow = if handle is popping out, that elbow is bent and is about to break. If it breaks, a good welder can fix it. Welding IS strong enough to take the pressure.

Yay, congrats!