TargetTalk

If the pressure spring is pushing the cocking lever back up, it is definitely a worn bolt roller.
You may (probably) need to replace the cocking lever as well. (Steyr recommend it.)
The 2 parts have worn so as not to keep the lever down in the closed position. Adjusting the barrel won't help.
The 'o'ring in the stabiliser is meant to be split, it is only there to provide resistance to keep the spring in place in the buffer.
As for the 'puff' of air at your finger, that indicates incorrect barrel position, and no - it is not common. The 'puff' should be fixed by adjusting the barrel, in this case, after fixing the Bolt Roller problem.
Thanks Bruce
(And just as a bit of background, I have a bit of an idea about the Steyrs as I have been (still am) a Steyr LP1 / LP10 user for 20 years - Personal best 588, disappointed if I shoot under 570 in 10m Air. I can still shoot as well as I ever could - just not as often these days.)

The stroke of the stabiliser (absorber) piston of my gun was a bit short. Removed the piston from the stabilizer today, and noticed the small o-ring, part # 70, was split. And one of the three small springs under the spring plate, part # 84, was missing. Btw. theese small springs have no parts number (!).

The later LP10s and the Evos use a thin strip of metal instead of the 3 springs inside the plastic drag ring. It would be worth buying one as it makes it much easier when adjusting the stabiliser.On the Evo parts diagram it is part no 84.

brucef wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2019 2:49 pm
The 'o'ring in the stabiliser is meant to be split, it is only there to provide resistance to keep the spring in place in the buffer.

Yes, I realised this small rubber ring was there to hold the spring in place.I saw this info too from the site "Steyr service info 2017", page 19, part # 4002090018: "slotted at stabilizer spring". (Btw your best competition score beats mine with some 10 Points. I own a LP10, a LP10 Evo, and a LP 50)

Silvershooter wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2019 4:15 pm The later LP10s and the Evos use a thin strip of metal instead of the 3 springs inside the plastic drag ring. It would be worth buying one as it makes it much easier when adjusting the stabiliser.On the Evo parts diagram it is part no 84.

Yes, these small springs are easily lost. Thanks for the advice. I assume the "thin strip of metal" is compatible with my stabilizer-piston? I am not sure about that, cause at the site "Steyr info 2017":
At page 19 again, part # 4005040009: "Spring plate stabilizer" it is stated: "Only to be used without preparation for pressure spring". No holes drilled for the springs in the piston, that indicates, i think.
Do I have to buy a new stabilizer-piston, if available? Or worse, a complete stabilizer?

I do not see any sign of wear at the cocking lever.

northpaw

What do you mean the barrel to bolt clearance (" headspace") is at a minimum. As you adjust the barrel in further, it contacts the o-ring in the bolt face and compresses it. The more you compress the o-ring the greater the pressure required to shut the bolt, within reason. I assume you have removed or loosened the barrel shroud before adjusting the barrel? Is your "headspace" at a minimum because the shroud runs into the frame? My understanding is the shroud is set with clearance to the frame. Mine is set to 5 thou or so clearance after the barrel bolt adjustment has been done.
Just trying to understand your use of the term headspace. I understand what headspace is as it applies to a rifle. With the LP10 not clear.

KH250 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 2:56 am As you adjust the barrel in further, it contacts the o-ring in the bolt face and compresses it. The more you compress the o-ring the greater the pressure required to shut the bolt, within reason.

If i adjust the barrel further out, air leakage from boltface-area at discharge increases dramatically.

KH250 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 2:56 amIs your "headspace" at a minimum because the shroud runs into the frame?

Yes.

KH250 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 2:56 amMy understanding is the shroud is set with clearance to the frame. Mine is set to 5 thou or so clearance after the barrel bolt adjustment has been done.
Just trying to understand your use of the term headspace.

My use of "headspace" is not fully proper, I agree. In this case it means shroud to frame clearance, not barrel to bolt clearance, regrettably. And, no, I did not loosen the shroud.Thanks for that tip.

Experiences buying spare parts from this company in India, anyone?
https://kiehberg.in/shooting/spare-part ... pares.html

I don't know if this thread will help, but here's my experience with doing a full service on a Steyr LP10e and ordering parts from our host twice :-)
https://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.ph ... 39#p249439
Chris