TargetTalk

kkayser wrote:This is all very helpful, but the bottom line is that I want a scope where I can consistently get reticle and target focus sharp and parallax = 0. I'll use any method that works.

DLS wrote:

kkayser wrote:This is all very helpful, but the bottom line is that I want a scope where I can consistently get reticle and target focus sharp and parallax = 0. I'll use any method that works.

Then you are good to go, as you can do that with any adjustable objective scope out there! ***(see below if you dare! <grin>)

Just follow the steps outlined earlier and you will be fine. Just remember that you will only be parallax free at one range at a time. Change the range to the target and you need to reset the parallax free setting to match.

By the way, I'm not against adjustable objectives, I have scopes with that feature, even though I don't use it other than set it once and forget it (exception my silhouette guns).

If you want one that's super! Really Who am I to get in the way of what makes another shooter happy! I was just curious as to why you did want the feature, that's all.

I bring up what I did because many folks (even very seasoned shooters) don't realize that the added expense, complexity, and weight of an AO scope really doesn't get them the value that they think they are getting.


*** Do I dare? <grin>

Okay, you can adjust the parallax free range on a non-adjustable scope as well. It just takes more work. Using a strap wrench you unscrew the end piece on the objective end of the scope. All scopes have this "cap". Many times the scope is manufactured to hide this separate piece for cosmetic reasons.

Once this cap is off you will see a ring holding the exterior lens / lens set. There will be spanner notches in this ring, this allows you to spin the ring and set the parallax free distance. It's how it's done at the factory.

Set it the distance you wish and replace the cap with your strap wrench. This will void the warrantee by the way. Do not unscrew the ring completely or you will unseal the scope and release the nitrogen contained within. If you do this you will most likely begin to have fogging issues down the road.

You will have to use trial and error to determine how far to move the ring, as manufactures don't publish this type of data. I did talk to a Leupold engineer one time because, at that time I was worried about the setting on a fixed power scope I had on a long-range hunting rifle. He suggested an appropriate amount and he was very close. It will differ with each scope.

He strongly suggested I send it in and they would do it for free, but even though I'm within driving distance of the factory, I wanted to play with it on my own and see what would happen. It worked great, and I've done a few more for friends over the years. I don't really recommend it now, because my understanding of the effects of parallax is now very different than it was then.

I hope this helps, and does not open up another can of worms! <grin>