Dead Morini Air Pistol Electronics?

[IPshooter]

The next step in this saga is to swap the electronics module from a working pistol into this one and see what happens. While I have done this a number of times, a related question is what is the preferred method of removing the installed module without damaging it? I recall someone telling me long ago to install the module with dental floss or something similar around the batteries so it would be easy to remove.

Any suggestions?

TIA

Stan

[David M]

Either remove the two grip screws and remove the grip, then remove the circuit board or
carefully use a pair of long nose (flat nose ) pliers and grab just at the edge of the board and pull.

Of all the Morini problems I have seen over the years over half have not been the circuit board.
Micro switch setting's (to little second stage weight, not resetting switch), broken solenoid wires and socket contact's
make up most of these faults.
Board failures have been mainly battery leaks with resulting black wire problems and the rare capacitor failure.
Overall the electronic trigger's has been very realiable.

[IPshooter]

Hello all,

Tried a known working module from another 162EI yesterday, with no success.

For clarification, with the module out of the gun and with fresh batteries, what pattern should I see on the LED? If I have the correct pattern on one module, I'm moving onto the micro switch.

Regarding that, does anyone know of a video that walks me through this? Which pin holds it in, and does it have to be removed from one side or the other?

TIA

Stan

[David M]

Be logical in your fault finding.
Do all of these checks flat on the bench with the grip off the pistol and without the air tank fitted.

Start with another pistol of the same type (remember there are two different modules and switch assy. (15v and AAA)
Swap a known working pistol module into the broken pistol. (work or not), also put the module from the dud pistol
into the good frame (work or not).

1. Dud module does not wok.
If the dud module does not work in the good frame and the good module does work in the dud frame, then the
problem is in the module (fault transferred to good frame).
Check for any sign of distress (blown cap, battery leak, water damage, corrosion etc.,).
Fit new module. (repair may be possible but...)

2. Dud module works.
If the good module does not work in the dud frame and the dud module works in the good frame, then it is not the module.
Start looking into the wiring, plug, solenoid and micro switch.
Using a multi meter check the switch circuit to see if it makes and breaks. (if not reset the switch and trigger weights and recheck).
Too little second stage weight can stop the micro switch from re-setting.
Check the solenoid circuit for continuity (open or closed circuit) , check for high resistance (black wire).
Repair as required.

[IPshooter]

Thank you, David and everyone else. I will continue working on this saga and report back with final results.

Wish me luck!

Stan

[IPshooter]

Hello all,

After talking with Pilkington, I'm going to try adjusting the micro switch to eliminate it as the source of the problem. This appears to require a 1mm hex wrench. Is that the correct size? Would like to be sure before I go on a mission to find one.

BTW, does anyone know where they're readily available in stores? Smallest I have now is 1.5 mm.

TIA

Stan

[David M]

eBay
7 piece metric ALLEN KEY set small mini sized 0.89mm 1.27mm 1.5mm 2.0mm 2.5 F/S

s-l500.jpg (32.79 KiB) Viewed 4138 times

[Gwhite]

The eBay set is a bit bogus. 1.27 mm is 50 thousandths of an inch, and isn't metric at all. 0.89mm is 35 thousandths of an inch.

Actually, 1 mm isn't a standard metric size. The closest true metric options are 0.9 mm and 1.3 mm. Unless you are near a large city with a metric specialty supply house, you will probably have to order one. A shop that sells to the electronics trade might also carry them, at least in a set.

McMaster Carr sells them, as do many industrial suppliers. The catch will be making a minimum order. McMaster sells all sorts of useful stuff, and I usually don't have trouble finding something I can use. They tend to have good prices on batteries, for example.

If you are going to own European pistols, having a high quality metric hex key set is a good idea. McMaster has those that go down to 0.9mm or even 0.7mm

[David M]

The .089 works, thats what I use.

[Gwhite]

That close enough to 0.9mm that it won't make much difference as long as the screw isn't stuck. If that is the case, you MIGHT be able to find a 0.035 inch ("0.89 mm") hex key at a good hardware store.

[IPshooter]

Hello all,

I am in the final stages of, hopefully, resolving this issue. But, I had something happen that the folks at Pilkington had not encountered. While dry firing the trigger, it started to fire multiple times. Anywhere from 2 to 5 times with one trigger movement. Happens sporadically.

Has anyone else had this issue?

In taking things one step at a time, the only thing I've not done yet is adjust the micro switch. Is it possible that this could be out of adjustment and would cause the multiple strikes?

TIA

Stan

[David M]

Yes, it sounds like the switch is set too fine, with little or no second stage trigger weight.
Try putting 1/2 a turn on the second stage spring and reduce the first stage 1/2 a turn.
If the second stage is to light then the micro switch will not reset.

[IPshooter]

David and all,

Just an update that David's solution of adding some weight to the second stage worked perfectly, and now this Morini is back in the game. Thanks to everyone!

Stan

[RevRoss]

Either remove the two grip screws and remove the grip, then remove the circuit board or
carefully use a pair of long nose (flat nose ) pliers and grab just at the edge of the board and pull.

Of all the Morini problems I have seen over the years over half have not been the circuit board.
Micro switch setting's (to little second stage weight, not resetting switch), broken solenoid wires and socket contact's
make up most of these faults.
Board failures have been mainly battery leaks with resulting black wire problems and the rare capacitor failure.
Overall the electronic trigger's has been very realiable.

Hi guys - I have a Moroni 162EI which was working fine until recently. The thing now just clicks when the trigger is pulled but won't fire - I assume the solenoid is working because of the click. This is the same click you get after firing a shot if you continue to hold the trigger in for a second or 2.
The board works fine in another 162EI so that can't be the problem. Have changed batteries anyway, cylinder is fully charged (but not over pressured), have tried other cylinders from 162EI at the range but no luck.
Do any of you knowledgeable fellows have any suggestions? I'd send the gun to a dealer for repair if I could but that means all sorts of paperwork due to the agent being interstate. (Got to love Aussie firearms laws).
Thanks in advance

[Leon]

I can't help on the specific issue, but I came across this FB page: https://www.facebook.com/Morini.circuit
I would definitely ask there about the cost of a repair.

These people are really good - and cost-effective.

Even the host of Targettalk, Pilkingtons, sends Morini and Steyr electronic modules to them for repair.

[David M]

The thing now just clicks when the trigger is pulled but won't fire - I assume the solenoid is working because of the click. This is the same click you get after firing a shot if you continue to hold the trigger in for a second or 2.
The board works fine in another 162EI so that can't be the problem. Have changed batteries anyway, cylinder is fully charged (but not over pressured), have tried other cylinders from 162EI at the range but no luck.

Sounds like the board is OK.
It could be a sear problem.
Or it could be a solenoid problem.
After you cock and close the pistol is the bolt remaining cocked ?
If you cock the pistol and action the trigger "click but no fire" what happens if you action the trigger a second time ? Does it fire ?

[RevRoss]

I can't help on the specific issue, but I came across this FB page: https://www.facebook.com/Morini.circuit
I would definitely ask there about the cost of a repair.

These people are really good - and cost-effective.

Even the host of Targettalk, Pilkingtons, sends Morini and Steyr electronic modules to them for repair.

Thanks - the module is fine but good to know.

[RevRoss]

The thing now just clicks when the trigger is pulled but won't fire - I assume the solenoid is working because of the click. This is the same click you get after firing a shot if you continue to hold the trigger in for a second or 2.
The board works fine in another 162EI so that can't be the problem. Have changed batteries anyway, cylinder is fully charged (but not over pressured), have tried other cylinders from 162EI at the range but no luck.

Sounds like the board is OK.
It could be a sear problem.
Or it could be a solenoid problem.
After you cock and close the pistol is the bolt remaining cocked ?
If you cock the pistol and action the trigger "click but no fire" what happens if you action the trigger a second time ? Does it fire ?

I think your onto something... I don't thing it's cocking at all. Not sure what could cause this. Have started to pull it apart but nothing obvious yet... Still trying to work out the cocking action on the last few degrees of level travel.

[rk.newdelhi.india]

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[Gwhite]

Good resource to know about. Thanks!