G'day all,
I shot my new walther GSP expert for the first time today and I am quite happy with the accuracy and reliability of the gun. However, there are two issues.
1) When I disassembled the weapon for cleaning I tried to remove the barrel weight and in doing so, I distured the position of the two spring loaded metal pieces in front. Hence, can anyone here tell me what the factory default setting for these "plugs" are?
2) I'm having a tough time removing the bolt for cleaning. I removed the upper receiver as prescribed and loosened the barrel retaining screw until the locking pin for the cocking piece coincided with the hole in the side casing. However, when I tried to push the locking pin in so that I could remove the cocking piece, it would not budge!
Can anyone here tell me what I can do to free the locking pin? [/quote]
Walther GSP Expert stripping problems
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Narcoleptic Warrior
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 10:57 am
I can't help much, except to say I've got the same problem with mine. When it was new a couple years ago that pin worked as it should, now it's very difficult to push in and when I eventually succeed sometimes won't easily pop back out. Very annoying considering how much these guns cost. I live only a few miles from the US importer, so I'm going to take a drive up there at some point and see what's up (and hope that the answer isn't to buy another piece at God-knows-what price). I'll report back if I learn anything useful.
I've never tried removing the blue weight (which sounds like it may have been a good decision), so can't comment on that problem.
I've never tried removing the blue weight (which sounds like it may have been a good decision), so can't comment on that problem.
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Mike Taylor
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 4:03 pm
- Location: Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
GSP-X Absorber
Concerning your 1):
From the information given here:
http://www.carlwalther.com/images/gsp_expert.pdf
Barring any other information, I'd suggest turning the screws to the mid-point of their travel range. Then experiment from there.
Concerning your 2):
Have you tried a drop of penetrating oil (Kroil, or similar) on the locking plunger? Let it soak for a few hours, then try pushing the plunger.
If it still doesn't move, any chance the cocking piece is in upside down? (It can be done - I know!) Then you will have to slide a thin piece of steel shim stock (feeler gauge, for example) in through the guide slot in the bolt housing, between the cocking piece and the bolt, to slide over the plunger and force it down. Then pull shim stock and cocking piece out together. The clearance between cocking piece and bolt is small. You will need a very thin shim (preferably of hardened steel - to avoid having the tip of the shim distort when it pushes against the plunger).
Mike T.
From the information given here:
http://www.carlwalther.com/images/gsp_expert.pdf
Barring any other information, I'd suggest turning the screws to the mid-point of their travel range. Then experiment from there.
Concerning your 2):
Have you tried a drop of penetrating oil (Kroil, or similar) on the locking plunger? Let it soak for a few hours, then try pushing the plunger.
If it still doesn't move, any chance the cocking piece is in upside down? (It can be done - I know!) Then you will have to slide a thin piece of steel shim stock (feeler gauge, for example) in through the guide slot in the bolt housing, between the cocking piece and the bolt, to slide over the plunger and force it down. Then pull shim stock and cocking piece out together. The clearance between cocking piece and bolt is small. You will need a very thin shim (preferably of hardened steel - to avoid having the tip of the shim distort when it pushes against the plunger).
Mike T.