Clark 38 special 1911
Moderators: pilkguns, m1963, Isabel1130
Clark 38 special 1911
Hello,
I'm hoping to find some helpful advice or guidance. I recently purchased a used Colt 1911 modified by Jim Clark in 1959 to 38 special wadcutter for a very reasonable price. It is all original, at least as how Clark modified the gun. The gun has been well used and issues related to condition include some bluing wear (no biggie), some inconsistency in the trigger pull weight (the full cock notch on the hammer looks buggered up) and the barrel condition. Slide fit was a bit loose, but that has been remedied. The barrel is the strange thing. There is considerable throat wear, which looks like polishing and a little loose spot just ahead of the throat which can be seen and felt when slugging the bore. I do not know if this is intentional. Bill Jenkins, in his U.S. Military Target Pistol book, mentions some early gunsmiths tried to throat the barrel to simulate a revolver forcing cone.
I have not ransom rested the pistol, but the accuracy is a bit disappointing with some hint of bullet skirting. So, I am thinking of getting a Kart NM barrel is 38 special (yes, they do make them!). Any comments on the advisability or what I should expect? The barrel isn't cheap, but even with this and any related work, I'll have just under $1000 invested. Would I be better off selling it for its collectable value and saving up considerably more for a Baer or RR wad gun?
I imagine these Clark wadguns stay tighter longer than a hardball gun but anyone have any ideas about the longevity of such tune-up work?
I'm hoping to find some helpful advice or guidance. I recently purchased a used Colt 1911 modified by Jim Clark in 1959 to 38 special wadcutter for a very reasonable price. It is all original, at least as how Clark modified the gun. The gun has been well used and issues related to condition include some bluing wear (no biggie), some inconsistency in the trigger pull weight (the full cock notch on the hammer looks buggered up) and the barrel condition. Slide fit was a bit loose, but that has been remedied. The barrel is the strange thing. There is considerable throat wear, which looks like polishing and a little loose spot just ahead of the throat which can be seen and felt when slugging the bore. I do not know if this is intentional. Bill Jenkins, in his U.S. Military Target Pistol book, mentions some early gunsmiths tried to throat the barrel to simulate a revolver forcing cone.
I have not ransom rested the pistol, but the accuracy is a bit disappointing with some hint of bullet skirting. So, I am thinking of getting a Kart NM barrel is 38 special (yes, they do make them!). Any comments on the advisability or what I should expect? The barrel isn't cheap, but even with this and any related work, I'll have just under $1000 invested. Would I be better off selling it for its collectable value and saving up considerably more for a Baer or RR wad gun?
I imagine these Clark wadguns stay tighter longer than a hardball gun but anyone have any ideas about the longevity of such tune-up work?
Rob and Mike,
I think you are both right. I checked with Clark and the cost of a tune-up seems to be pretty reasonable. Rob, this one is a 5" slide with extended front sight and a 6'' barrel. The barrel started out as the stock barrel, had been cut off at the lugs, then had a new (Douglas?) blank inserted, and a ramp installed. The bottom lug has been welded up and fitted and the hood has been welded up and fitted for length but not width. There is also a small piece of shim stock silver soldered (?) in the rearmost channel between the upper lugs to assist lock up. It seems to lock up very well; smooth, effortless yet with no discernible play. So, the initial fitting must have been very well done.
How is yours set up? Is that Kart barrel a more recent addition? Does it need much ongoing tune-up work? I'd love to hear your general impressions, or anyone else's who may be using such a pistol.
Thanks.
I think you are both right. I checked with Clark and the cost of a tune-up seems to be pretty reasonable. Rob, this one is a 5" slide with extended front sight and a 6'' barrel. The barrel started out as the stock barrel, had been cut off at the lugs, then had a new (Douglas?) blank inserted, and a ramp installed. The bottom lug has been welded up and fitted and the hood has been welded up and fitted for length but not width. There is also a small piece of shim stock silver soldered (?) in the rearmost channel between the upper lugs to assist lock up. It seems to lock up very well; smooth, effortless yet with no discernible play. So, the initial fitting must have been very well done.
How is yours set up? Is that Kart barrel a more recent addition? Does it need much ongoing tune-up work? I'd love to hear your general impressions, or anyone else's who may be using such a pistol.
Thanks.
As imaculate as my long heavy slide is, it looked like someone took the barrel and put it on an electric wire wheel to smooth the locking lugs and the rest of the barrel. If I sandbaged the gun, I could shoot 100's, but needed the entire 10 ring. I have a Giles and an Aikman that keep the majority of their shots in the X-ring. I decided to rebarrel it with a Kart 6" barrel and hav'nt tested it since. It defintly locks up tighter than before. I since took the old Clark barrel, cut it to 5" and made a Springfield combat gun a (10 ring) 50 yard shooter. Just a note; these older 6" barrels had reverse rifling! If you can get yours to shoot 3" at 50 yards off sandbags, maybe you should leave it alone. My Aikman and Clark have "tuners" that need to be cleaned so the back of the barrel hood fits easy. I just make sure its clean before a 2700. Not to start an accuracy "war", but I personly don't think my scores would change from a "10" ring gun or an "X" ring gun. Was that the gun on Buds website?
Clark vintage 38 sp wad cutter guns
I seem to remember that jim clark tightened the slide to be solid just as it reached battery and left some small amount of clearence during the travel to the rear and back to insure functioning. There may not be a thing wrong with your gun but I would certainly advise machine rest testing to be sure. Young jim can do the testing and should anything be needed he can fix the problem. Good luck with this fine target gun. Good Shooting Bill Horton
Bill,
Thank you so much. This is very helpful and encouraging. I must say this Clark is exceedingly smooth, so it seems reasonable to suppose it is fitted as intended. I did contact Clark and was told they are quite backed up. It would be anywhere from 4-6 months before they could even look at it. This is a bit disappointing for a special tune-up service offered exclusively for Clark-built guns. The outdoor 2700 season would be half over by then! Then again, perhaps it is indicative of the demand for quality work.
In the meantime, I am trying to arrange to ransom rest the gun at a nearby club which has a ransom rest platform welded to an I beam set in deep concrete. The same club is frequented by an experienced gunsmith/competitor who has a Cominolli(?) barrel testing fixture.
Jim
Thank you so much. This is very helpful and encouraging. I must say this Clark is exceedingly smooth, so it seems reasonable to suppose it is fitted as intended. I did contact Clark and was told they are quite backed up. It would be anywhere from 4-6 months before they could even look at it. This is a bit disappointing for a special tune-up service offered exclusively for Clark-built guns. The outdoor 2700 season would be half over by then! Then again, perhaps it is indicative of the demand for quality work.
In the meantime, I am trying to arrange to ransom rest the gun at a nearby club which has a ransom rest platform welded to an I beam set in deep concrete. The same club is frequented by an experienced gunsmith/competitor who has a Cominolli(?) barrel testing fixture.
Jim