has anyone had any trouble with the trigger on their MG2RF?
mine is changing from a 1000g pull to about a 10000g when the temperature gets up around 24C i am thinking something is expanding to much on hot days (which is most days here in Australia)?
i have had trouble with missfires when i first purchased the gun on all types of ammo so i sent it back and they replaced the hammer and polished a few things and it hasn't missed since but now the trigger is playing havok any ideas apart from sending it back again?
MG2
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Check all the axles, some of them tend to wander sideways out of the frame. Or could be the trigger stop, perhaps a tiny bit too tight. Other than that, I wouldn't know where to look, there aren't all that many parts connected with the trigger... if Cesare hasn't put in some more in the meantime :-)
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Mark Briggs
- Posts: 583
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
- Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada
Dan - the RF and standard MG-2 trigger compenents look pretty much the same. I don't know what the cause of your troubles are but will suggest an area or two for investigation. My MG-2 triggers have worked very well once I learned how to adjust them, and they don't seem to change with temperature (-10 to +33C is the range which my pistols normally see).
1) secondary sear engagement - this is the small adjusting screw accessible through the rear face of the receiver. Too much sear engagement, besides making the trigger long and "creepy", can result in slight binding of the sear lever and thus increased trigger pull weight. Of course, the converse is also problematic - too little sear engagement will cause the hammer to follow the slide forward.
2) disconnector - this is a small lever that sits on the right side of the frame behind the breechblock when it's in the closed position. You'll see as the breechblock moves rearward after firing that it pushes the disconnector downward, thus ensuring the pistol doesn't go "full auto". I've once seen an excessive amount of "gunk" in and around this disconnector cause it to bind the trigger a little bit, certainly not 9 kilos worth. Can't think of how this would cause operation to change over temperature though.
3) general tolerances - this is where I'd put my biggest bet, that general maching tolerances are stacking up against you and that things just tighten up too much as they warm up. Spend some time with the gun at room temp, cycling the action and watching exactly how the trigger works. Then take it out into the burning Aussie sun and keep playing with it as it heats up. Spend an hour or so doing this and my bet is you'll see what's causing the trigger to tighten up. You might find that you have to take some emery cloth to a part to get it to work perfectly.
Keep fiddling with it and post back here with results and questions. We'll do our best to get you back up and running.
Mark.
1) secondary sear engagement - this is the small adjusting screw accessible through the rear face of the receiver. Too much sear engagement, besides making the trigger long and "creepy", can result in slight binding of the sear lever and thus increased trigger pull weight. Of course, the converse is also problematic - too little sear engagement will cause the hammer to follow the slide forward.
2) disconnector - this is a small lever that sits on the right side of the frame behind the breechblock when it's in the closed position. You'll see as the breechblock moves rearward after firing that it pushes the disconnector downward, thus ensuring the pistol doesn't go "full auto". I've once seen an excessive amount of "gunk" in and around this disconnector cause it to bind the trigger a little bit, certainly not 9 kilos worth. Can't think of how this would cause operation to change over temperature though.
3) general tolerances - this is where I'd put my biggest bet, that general maching tolerances are stacking up against you and that things just tighten up too much as they warm up. Spend some time with the gun at room temp, cycling the action and watching exactly how the trigger works. Then take it out into the burning Aussie sun and keep playing with it as it heats up. Spend an hour or so doing this and my bet is you'll see what's causing the trigger to tighten up. You might find that you have to take some emery cloth to a part to get it to work perfectly.
Keep fiddling with it and post back here with results and questions. We'll do our best to get you back up and running.
Mark.
Thanks
i have checked the axles, trigger stop, sear adjustment and the disconector all seem fine as for tolerances i can't seem to find any part that does not moove freely, i also keep the gun very clean so it should not be any excesive dirt build up?
i sat in the sun for over an hour and cycled the action till i had blisters in the searing heat yesterday and nothing happened so i'll need to go to the range on the weekend and pump some ammo through it till it binds up again ( it does seem to happen into the second match of the day) and then try to locate a problem.
i have checked the axles, trigger stop, sear adjustment and the disconector all seem fine as for tolerances i can't seem to find any part that does not moove freely, i also keep the gun very clean so it should not be any excesive dirt build up?
i sat in the sun for over an hour and cycled the action till i had blisters in the searing heat yesterday and nothing happened so i'll need to go to the range on the weekend and pump some ammo through it till it binds up again ( it does seem to happen into the second match of the day) and then try to locate a problem.