Reloading .32...problems!
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Reloading .32...problems!
Hi all,
I just ordered my first .32 wadcutter gun...a Benelli MP90.
In preparation I bought some brand new hirtenberger? brass and all the necessary accoutrements for my Dillon 550b, including Dillon dies.
In the second station (bell & powder) the case is getting stuck on the powder funnel and it requires about 50 pounds of force and some pounding to lift the arm and release the shell. Also, I keep re-setting the bell then the next shell gets no bell to the neck. What the heck is going on? I've reloaded countless 38 and 45s. Never had this before.
Coming out of the 1st (resize) station the inside diameter of the case is .307. After getting it unstuck from the second station the inside dia. is .309. The tip of the powder funnel has a parralell dimension (before belling part) of .311. spring-back of .002 doesn't seem unusual.
Why are these stinking shells getting stuck?
Also, anyone who's developed a pet load for a .32 MP90, feel free to chime in!
Thanks
I just ordered my first .32 wadcutter gun...a Benelli MP90.
In preparation I bought some brand new hirtenberger? brass and all the necessary accoutrements for my Dillon 550b, including Dillon dies.
In the second station (bell & powder) the case is getting stuck on the powder funnel and it requires about 50 pounds of force and some pounding to lift the arm and release the shell. Also, I keep re-setting the bell then the next shell gets no bell to the neck. What the heck is going on? I've reloaded countless 38 and 45s. Never had this before.
Coming out of the 1st (resize) station the inside diameter of the case is .307. After getting it unstuck from the second station the inside dia. is .309. The tip of the powder funnel has a parralell dimension (before belling part) of .311. spring-back of .002 doesn't seem unusual.
Why are these stinking shells getting stuck?
Also, anyone who's developed a pet load for a .32 MP90, feel free to chime in!
Thanks
I had a similar problem with IMI 38sp new brass also with Dillon 550B, the first time the last 20 years I bought new brass (it was a sale, I got them for a very cheap price) !
I never have any problem with reused brass that I get from shooters who do not reload.
When I compared the IMI with the other ones (I have a lot of brands), I saw that the walls of the IMI were much thicker especially the edge. The edge was also not well finished.
After having shot the IMI once, the second reload was much easier and further reloads went smoothly.
My conclusion is that I will never buy any new brass anymore.
If I need some, I will buy factory complete ammunition and then reuse the brass after having shot them.
I never have any problem with reused brass that I get from shooters who do not reload.
When I compared the IMI with the other ones (I have a lot of brands), I saw that the walls of the IMI were much thicker especially the edge. The edge was also not well finished.
After having shot the IMI once, the second reload was much easier and further reloads went smoothly.
My conclusion is that I will never buy any new brass anymore.
If I need some, I will buy factory complete ammunition and then reuse the brass after having shot them.
I think it may be that the new brass is age hardened. It is the same reason why new brass often splits. Just because it is new (ie unused) does not measn it is not several years old.
Here's the advice of a neighbor, to overcome the problems associated with using new brass, and having it get stuck in the press or split on first firing.
He heats up his lead pot, dips the necks of the cases into the lead by hand and when he feels them getting too hot to hold, flings them into a pot of water.
Here's the advice of a neighbor, to overcome the problems associated with using new brass, and having it get stuck in the press or split on first firing.
He heats up his lead pot, dips the necks of the cases into the lead by hand and when he feels them getting too hot to hold, flings them into a pot of water.
I tried all the suggestions. Thanks all. I finally went up to the dillon dealer in NY state 25 miles away. He swapped out the powder funnel. The one that came with the die set ( 32 S&W, 32 S&W long and 32 H&R Mag) was too long and was providing too much resistance on the upstroke.
He had one tha had barley any straight tip too it before the bell.....works fine.
I'm still looking for suggestions for pet loads in 32!!!?
He had one tha had barley any straight tip too it before the bell.....works fine.
I'm still looking for suggestions for pet loads in 32!!!?
So now you let the bullet do the job that the powder funnel would have done? The lead is soft and will be squeezed down. I doubt that this will do you any good if you want a tight group.Anonymous wrote: He swapped out the powder funnel. The one that came with the die set ( 32 S&W, 32 S&W long and 32 H&R Mag) was too long and was providing too much resistance on the upstroke.
He had one tha had barley any straight tip too it before the bell.....works fine.
There are a lot of loads; we do not know what bullet or powder you intend to use. 98 grain HN wadcutter .314 hollow base and 1,2 grain Vectan Ba 10 is my load.
Kent
I should get in the habit of logging in...I'm the "guest" that started this thread.
"Now you'll let the bullet do the job the powder funnel should have done?" ... never thought of this. I always assumed that the pressure under ignition would obtruate (is that the right word???) the soft lead bullet to the groove diameter. Guess I'll find out.
As I live in the People's Republic of New Jersey, I still have not taken possession of my Benelli...the SS/Gestapo has not seen fit to issue my permit even though the law says "30 days" (courts won't enforce it). I go into the gun shop and kiss it goodnight occasionally. I can't wait to get it and develop a load.
In preparation, I have 98 gr. HBWC .314 speers and .313 H&N bullets each loaded ahead of 1.5 Bullseye, 1.6 WST and 1.7 231 (10 each combination) as well as a box of fiocchi and Magtech for testing. I have a match in May and want to have some practice under my belt.
Thanks to all for the help. any other advice for a beginner in the caliber is appreciated!!!
I notice no one shoots a Benelli MP 90 here...I hope I have not made a mistake!??
"Now you'll let the bullet do the job the powder funnel should have done?" ... never thought of this. I always assumed that the pressure under ignition would obtruate (is that the right word???) the soft lead bullet to the groove diameter. Guess I'll find out.
As I live in the People's Republic of New Jersey, I still have not taken possession of my Benelli...the SS/Gestapo has not seen fit to issue my permit even though the law says "30 days" (courts won't enforce it). I go into the gun shop and kiss it goodnight occasionally. I can't wait to get it and develop a load.
In preparation, I have 98 gr. HBWC .314 speers and .313 H&N bullets each loaded ahead of 1.5 Bullseye, 1.6 WST and 1.7 231 (10 each combination) as well as a box of fiocchi and Magtech for testing. I have a match in May and want to have some practice under my belt.
Thanks to all for the help. any other advice for a beginner in the caliber is appreciated!!!
I notice no one shoots a Benelli MP 90 here...I hope I have not made a mistake!??
reloading 32
I shoot a Pardini 32 with a new Dave Wilson barrel. I use 98gr Speer or Hornaday HBWC over 1.7gr of WST. With the new barrel I cannot use my Federal brass, sidewalls are to thick. I love my little mouse gun even though oter shooters make fun of it!
In the beginning, I would just stick to a load that is as reliable as possible. Once you have a reliable (alibi free) unit, then I'd go searching for the accuracy part. I had to make a few small adjustments along the way to make my Pardini HP reliable. Sometimes the bullet seating depth and crimp can affect how they feed up thru the magizine. Hopefully your gun will be perfect from the get go!
mp90 loads
I also had problems with the H brand brass (it's harder than any other I have used). H get excellent results using 1.3 gr VV N310 under either Hornady or speer HBWC